Strudul Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 So I was happily "dipping" my car with Rust-Oleum Peel Coat. Door handles and side + rear emblems came out great, but when i tried to peel the excess off my front bumper (emblem and reflectors)... Well, look... - Caused bubbling / cracks in the paint in some spots. - Peeling off the dip sometimes brings the paint with it. - Where it hasn't pulled off my paint, there's a leftover residue, but removing that takes the paint with it So I guess there's 3 questions. 1) Why? Is it cos the front bumper is plastic rather than steel / aly? Or has someone just done a shite paint job and now I'm dealing with the consequences? 2) How screwed am I? Is it a case of sanding everything down and repainting it from scratch? 3) Is it my fault or can I point the finger at someone else? (Manufacturer? Supplier?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetpilot Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 So I guess there's 3 questions. 1) Why? Is it cos the front bumper is plastic rather than steel / aly? Or has someone just done a shite paint job and now I'm dealing with the consequences? 2) How screwed am I? Is it a case of sanding everything down and repainting it from scratch? 3) Is it my fault or can I point the finger at someone else? (Manufacturer? Supplier?) 1) Possibly sh*t paint, possibly a reaction with the chemicals in the rustoloem 2) Yes 3) Of course its your fault, pretty sure most tins suggest trying on an area that is unseen for this very reason. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 (edited) 1) Possibly sh*t paint, possibly a reaction with the chemicals in the rustoloem 2) Yes 3) Of course its your fault, pretty sure most tins suggest trying on an area that is unseen for this very reason. I did test it, just not on my front bumper. It's fine on the door handles and other emblems (+ surrounding areas of paintwork). Edited February 22, 2017 by Strudul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogyRev Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Whoopsie looks like the area was not cleaned properly, hence why its stuck to the wrong bits. . . and yes its your fault Note to self - Always remove things before spraying them 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 (edited) Whoopsie looks like the area was not cleaned properly, hence why its stuck to the wrong bits. . . and yes its your fault Note to self - Always remove things before spraying them If it wasn't cleaned properly it wouldn't have bonded at all (according to the guides on prep). Instead it has magically gone through any dirt / grease / wax / protection and stuck to the paint, and stuck better than the paint stuck to the primer... Edited February 22, 2017 by Strudul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMT Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Always remove the items!...or leave them as they are (cos they look fine lol) Hope you get it off ok 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay84 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 I did think it brave spraying while on threes car 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Well I was going to remove stuff first, but literally the entire internet says to dip emblems while on your car and just peel off the excess after... Source: Every video on dipping emblems ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly350z Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Im assuming that they're meant to be black right... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogyRev Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Well I was going to remove stuff first, but literally the entire internet says to dip emblems while on your car and just peel off the excess after... Source: Every video on dipping emblems ever. All those videos are using Plasti-Dip . . . you used a different product Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Didn't they masked everything off in the video on the link in your first post? Anyway, what's done is done, Zeds need regular front end resprays, so now seems like a good opportunity. Live and learn mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aashenfox Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 (edited) Well I was going to remove stuff first, but literally the entire internet says to dip emblems while on your car and just peel off the excess after... Source: Every video on dipping emblems ever. All those videos are using Plasti-Dip . . . you used a different product I was about to say this...Damn dude, I feel for you, but plastidip would not have done that. Now with the unhelpful stuff out of the way, let's try something helpful... Looks like you'll be getting out the wet n dry, no avoiding that, but I too am curious why it was SO toxic to some areas of your car and totally benign on others. I'm inclined to go with your suggestion that maybe there's some cheap clearcoat on those parts or something, it's mighty weird. How long you had the car? Are you one who details? Though again, this analysis isn't going to change what has happened, and maybe you'd be better off in the long run having those panels that reacted weirdly all redone. Maybe it would have peeled off in 6 months anyway? /shrug Edited February 22, 2017 by Aashenfox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Lesson learnt, always read the instructions where it specifically says to mask stuff off. Respray time I'm afraid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogyRev Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 you could try dissolving it with diluted thinners or petrol . . but as stated above . . its respray time realistically Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 All those videos are using Plasti-Dip . . . you used a different product Pretty much the same stuff AFAIK. Here's someone doing it on a Cayman with the Rust-Oleum stuff and the same technique... Didn't they masked everything off in the video on the link in your first post? Well yeah, but they were doing racing stripes, not emblems... More importantly, they were spraying on the paintwork, which is exactly what I did... I was about to say this...Damn dude, I feel for you, but plastidip would not have done that. Now with the unhelpful stuff out of the way, let's try something helpful... Looks like you'll be getting out the wet n dry, no avoiding that, but I too am curious why it was SO toxic to some areas of your car and totally benign on others. I'm inclined to go with your suggestion that maybe there's some cheap clearcoat on those parts or something, it's mighty weird. How long you had the car? Are you one who details? Though again, this analysis isn't going to change what has happened, and maybe you'd be better off in the long run having those panels that reacted weirdly all redone. Maybe it would have peeled off in 6 months anyway? /shrug Had it for 5 months. I wash it, but the guides specifically say to prep the area by removing any wax from the area. Lesson learnt, always read the instructions where it specifically says to mask stuff off. Respray time I'm afraid. Yes, it says to mask parts off, but that is just to make it easier to remove / clean. It is designed to be used on paintwork, not just emblems and plastic trim. As such, there shouldn't have been a problem with it getting on my paint. In theory (apart from giving a shoddy finish) it should be perfectly suitable for spraying my entire front bumper, but instead it has just melted it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 you could try dissolving it with diluted thinners or petrol . . but as stated above . . its respray time realistically I can get it off without too much issue using WD40 etc, but it's already done the damage and it brings the paint with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogyRev Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 All those videos are using Plasti-Dip . . . you used a different product Pretty much the same stuff AFAIK. Here's someone doing it on a Cayman with the Rust-Oleum stuff and the same technique... Thats Rust-Oleum FlexiDip . . you used Peel Coat . . two separate products!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogyRev Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Also if you did not shake the can properly then the paint and rubber don't mix correctly . . it does look like you have more paint than rubber in the photos, more so if its not peeling like it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 All those videos are using Plasti-Dip . . . you used a different product Pretty much the same stuff AFAIK. Here's someone doing it on a Cayman with the Rust-Oleum stuff and the same technique... Thats Rust-Oleum FlexiDip . . you used Peel Coat . . two separate products!!! Same stuff, they just re-branded it, with Peel Coat being the new version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Also if you did not shake the can properly then the paint and rubber don't mix correctly . . it does look like you have more paint than rubber in the photos, more so if its not peeling like it should. Shook the can vigorously for 1 minute as per the instructions... I followed all the instructions to a T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Painting Conditions: Use outdoors or in a well-ventilated area such as an open garage. Use when temperature is between 50°-90°F (10°C - 32°C) and humidity is below 65% to ensure proper drying. Do not apply to galvanized metal. Avoid spraying in very windy, dusty conditions. Cover surrounding area to protect from spray mist. Preparation: Thoroughly wash surface with soap and water prior to application. Let dry. Priming is not required or recommended. Painting: Shake can vigorously for one minute after mixing ball begins to rattle. If mixing ball fails to rattle DO NOT STRIKE. Contact Rust-Oleum. Shake often during use. Keep the can 8-12†from surface and spray in a steady back-and-forth motion, slightly overlapping each stroke. Apply 4 or more light coats to build desired coating thickness, followed by 1 or more medium coat(s) to achieve a smooth final film. Note: Target 50% coverage on first coat. Allow coating to dry for about 5 minutes between coats. More coats will result in a thicker coating which is easier to remove when desired. Allow coating to cure for 24 hours prior to washing. Dry & Recoat Times based on 70°F (20°C) and 50% relative humidity. Allow more time at cooler temperatures. Dries to the touch in 20 minutes, to handle in 1 hour. Removal: You can peel film off once the coating has fully cured. This coating has been formulated for temporary use and is recommended to be removed within 6 months or less. A microfiber cloth or mineral spirits may assist in the removal of coating in intricate areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Considering how perfect my side emblems turned out, i'm finding it hard to accept that it was caused by me not following the instructions properly. I didn't do anything different... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Good work, you've posted up half the job, then moaned when people have given reasonable feedback, only half knowing the crack, then revealed the second half of the job in your defence. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 (edited) Good work, you've posted up half the job, then moaned when people have given reasonable feedback, only half knowing the crack, then revealed the second half of the job in your defence. The very first line* of the OP says: Door handles and side + rear emblems came out great *Depending on screen resolution Edited February 22, 2017 by Strudul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Personally I would have removed the items and if that wasn't possible then I would of masked off the entire area. As already stated though I think the only resolution for this is a respray unfortunately. Lesson learnt I'm sure and I can only imagine how gutting this is for you Strudul. Wish you all the best in rectifying the problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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