ZMANALEX

Sorry to hear of your engine woes. It sounds like bottom end to me, however, difficult to be informed from where I am sitting. I would firstly get a stethoscope on it, to trace the area of the noise. Another thing to check is that the main timing chain tensioner is not broken as these are weak and prone to breaking, however this would give you a heavy ticking noise as would a lobe off one of the cam shafts, so the noise is pointing to bottom end, crank, con rod area. If that turns out to be the case and you require a known, preowned, low mileage, Rev Up engine, then just give me a shout as I am removing one from a car this week. Alex.

As Glen has said check your fluid level first, followed by: Belts Pulleys Pump You can always run the motor without the belt/belts as a process of elimination., which will help decide whether PAS issue or Air Con.

As per my pm to you. Check the micro switches before you replace the 5th bow motor.

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Sold out of undertrays at the minute I am afraid Mark.

My recommendations were to get the roof fabric warmed up and try the operation again. Failing that the 5th bow motor will probably be the issue. Hopefully your guide Colin, with help the OP

I am liking this, Good Job.

New or preowned? Stock or aftermarket? Coilovers?

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No worries mate, I realised what you had done.

Some call it a flange, others a bearing carrier and others a sleeve

Plenty in stock,

Plenty in stock.

In stock at the minute Just drop me a PM if I can help further. Pumps also in stock.

Neil, You have certainly weakened the stud, but it should be okay as there is still plenty meat left on the stud, however if I had that situation in the shop I would V it out and weld as required and then dress up to take the bushing. Hope this helps,

Kidney brackets and sump pans are in stock and good to go same/next day:

This might help:

Yes, they are compatible with each other. The rears will be a perfect fit and the fronts will be very slightly stretched. I have run 235 tyres on front 8.5 rims with absolutely no adverse affects for road and track use. Hope this helps.

Yes, arms also in stock, however there are more than 1 type/size of arm and seating cone and ball joint I am afraid. Best to fit an arm that is compatible with your existing OEM ball joint and seating cone.

If the new control arm does not fit the original OEM ball joint, then you have the wrong arm I am afraid.

Might be a plan to measure the thread diameter with a vernier as there is not a 20mm size. Also you get different size of seating cones as well. Are you replacing the lower arm as well?

Wise choice, you will not be disappointed, superb tyre, especially in the wet.

BJs are in stock, what size do you require?

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