ZMANALEX

You will not get a Haltech and Tomei cams and a set of buckets and proper head gaskets and a remap etc.etc.etc. for £1000. unless you are proposing to do the work yourself. Sorry to burst your bubble mate but no point in this I am afraid. The 1k was just rough cost of cams and fitting - cams £500 fitting for 10 hours work £500. Already will be getting an ECU and mapping, so price was just extra on top. A lot of the american sites rave about cams and headers so it's good to hear that it's basically a waste of time, gives a different perspective from someone who's trusted in the local Zed community My pleasure Chris, just don't want you wasting your money mate. Please note my comments are purely based on my own personal experiences and some one may be along later with a different view but it is a lot of money for very little gain. I just love your quote of 10 hrs labour, I can do this swop out with my eyes closed and even with my eyes open it would take much longer, try 3 times that and you are getting close. Alex.

You will not get a Haltech and Tomei cams and a set of buckets and proper head gaskets and a remap etc.etc.etc. for £1000. unless you are proposing to do the work yourself. Sorry to burst your bubble mate but no point in this I am afraid.

I run Tomie cams on Cosworth heads on my tt set up and have no complaints, great product. There really will be no advantages improvement in your performance figures even with a Haltech on a na engine. Putting it bluntly total waste of your hard earned on a na power unit so absolutely no point. Have you costed this out. Alex.

You have pm mate.

No, No, Yes

No, No, Yes

Some pictures here. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0302801939

Oil seal on the cam box cover will be the demon. There is one for every coil pack. I can help you with this if you require parts. Alex.

These are very easy to knock up guys using sheet aluminium. The flexy part of the Y pipe is normally the lowest underbody part of the Zed. If there is enough interest say (20) then I can easily fabricate them, but I could not make a start until mid March. I run with one on the Roadster and it works very well. Cost would be around £125 + shipping. Alex.

Yip, got to agree with that has all been said. Geometry and tyres.

Ask Lee, he pulled one apart recently and he got it off in one piece because I saw it on Ebay.

Could not be bothered doing a comparison, but here are the correct settings.

I will do it for you right now.

+ 1 ^^ Watch that you don't cook the battery if your charger does not have an automatic cut off.

Dunno what happened there,

From me if you wish But you will require a remap

From me if you wish But you will require a remap

From me if you wish But you will require a remap

Yes, to much to go wrong. If you want to achieve the claimed benefits then dispose of your fly by and replace the TB and fit a cable. Works very well for me.

Was my very first meaningful upgrade many years ago. Best springs on the market. You should have no issues with normal size humps.

Fresh cold oil = higher oil pressure.... Also depends on what make of oil filter you used, that is if you changed it which I hope you did

In all honesty Steve you really have nothing to worry about with a NA car and the heat soak that you are generating will pale into significance compared to what I experience. You will only be able to do about 10 - 15 laps depending on what track you are on before your brakes and tyres start to go off anyway. That really is the most you should be doing in any one session as your concentration levels will also start to drop off. A cool down lap and then ten minutes back in the pit lane and you will be good to go again. If your track day consists of a 4 hour open pit lane then you will find that you will have ample track time. Alex.

Must be something in the air or the water over there as the Nismo cap, stat and Koyo rad works well over here with no issues. Not any huge differences to be had granted, but every little helps as every degree is a prisoner. I also experienced a reduction in engine bay heat soak with my fans coming on earlier and switching off later as cold air was sucked into the engine bay for a longer period. Channeling all the cold air to and from the rad directly into the engine bay by filling in the sides also helped, as did a proper vented/scooped bonnet allowing cold air in and hot air out. Also removing some of the plastic at the bulkhead also helped by creating a larger gap to allow the hot air out or if you are feeling flush then a raised Du Luck bonnet works very well. Serious modification of the front bumper also helps, but that is a story for an other day Normally, you should not experience heat soak or running hot issues with a na car. I run 600 bhp and it is a constant battle keeping the car cool on serious track days and I am continually making subtle changes to try and improve the situation but I am slowly getting there. Mapped to run a bit more fuel through on the overrun also helps quite a bit by helping to keep the Turbos cooler. I could go on forever but I don't want to give all my secrets away Alex.