ZMANALEX

Dunno Paul, I use the Pro account for my vids and can only have a max of 10mins or 100mb file size per video but you probably know that already with you being a pro prescriber. 100mb is to small for me so I now use U Tube.

IMHO it is always good engineering practise to replace the bearings irrespective of the mileage. when replacing the crown wheel and pinion.

Some more for you mate retrieved from my archives. What is a Final Drive? The final drive is the final gearing before the rear wheels. The input from the transmission goes into the final drive receiving a final reduction before entering the drive axles. The final drive is made up of a ring and pinion gear and is mounted on the rear differential. What is the OEM final drive ratio? The 5spd automatic has a 3.357 final drive ratio. The 6spd manual has a 3.538 final drive ratio. Are there aftermarket final drives? Yes. Currently only a 3.917 ratio gearing is available and is offered by several companies. How can changing it help? There are two options here based on need. Going up in ratio gearing improves acceleration. (i.e. 3.3 ---> 3.5 ---> 3.9) This is generall NOT recommended for forced induction vehicles. Those who have done this in conjunction with FI have noted that first gear becomes worthless in 6spd tranny cars. Going down in ratio gearing can improve traction and widen the gears for high power applications (i.e. 3.5 ---> 3.3) This is generally NOT recommended for naturally aspirated or lightly modded vehicles. It can severaly slow down the accelleration. Can I put one in my 5spd automatic? It is not recommended to install the 3.9 gears into an automatic. However, many owners have had success installing the 3.5 gears, improving acceleration. Why is the 5spd automatic final drive different? Because the transmission has few gears and each is gear has a different ratio than the 6spd manual counterpart. In short: the 3.3 gear is the appropriate OEM gearing for the 5spd, just as the 3.5 is the appropriate OEM gearing for the 6spd. WIll it work with the XXXX LSD? Is this a good modifcation for FI'd cars? For lightly boosted setups, the gears can add additional performance while keeping your engine safe. Instead of risking a fatal engine failure, you could achieve the greater acceleration with a gear change. However, as you increase boost levels there comes a point where lower gearing would be more beneficial allowing you greater range in each gear to fully reap the benefits of a high horsepower engine. Is this a good mod for the drag strip? What is the top speed with the final drive changed? What final drive ratios are available? 3.3: This is the standard final drive gearing that comes with the 5spd automatic transmission. 3.5: This is the standard final drive gearing that comes with the 6spd manual transmission. 3.9: This is the popular after market gearing for the 6spd manual. INSTALLATION How much does it cost to install? Installation prices range from 300 to 600 depending on who you ask. Keep in mind you may need additional parts. See the Final Drive Wiki Page for more information on this. What extra parts are needed? need info.... Can I install this myself? Only you can answer that. If you are asking this question then probably no. This installation requires some special tools. You have to drop the entire pumpkin assembly down from the chassis and I have heard that requires some of the rear suspension to be removed as well. Is there an installation tutorial? Not yet. How long does the installation take? It would be possible to do in a single day for someone who has all the right tools and is experienced. However expect at least 2 days and even longer if extra parts are required once the pumpkin is open. MAINTENANCE ETC.. I hear funny noises after the install. It may be ok to hear some noise, but too much noise means something could be wrong. The most likely cause is an incorrectly shimmed gear set. Will this affect my gas mileage? It has the potential to affect it, but not by too much. Will this affect the TCS/VDC? No. Drivetrain Definitions Axle An axle is a central shaft for a rotating wheel or gear. In some cases the axle may be fixed in position with a bearing or bushing sitting inside the hole in the wheel or gear to allow the wheel or gear to rotate around the axle. In other cases the wheel or gear may be fixed to the axle, with bearings or bushings provided at the mounting points where the axle is supported. Clutch A clutch is a subcomponent of an engine's transmission designed to allow engagement or disengagement of the engine to the gearbox or whatever apparatus is being driven. The coupling mechanism used on a mechanical power press to couple the flywheel to the crankshaft, either directly or through a gear train. Differential A set of mechanical gears that eqaulises the power between the left and right drive wheels, particularly when cornering, when the outside wheel travels further than the inside wheel. A device - usually made of gears - that divides the torque between the driving wheels and permits the wheels to turn at different speeds. This is especially important when negotiating a corner, as the inside wheels turn more slowly than the outside wheels. A unit that takes the power of the rotating driveshaft at right angles to the rear axle and passes it to the axle. It will not only drive both rear axles at the same time, but will also allow them to turn at different speeds when negotiating turns. In this way the tires do not scuff or skid. Driveshaft A driveshaft or driving shaft is a mechanical device for transferring power from the engine or motor to the point where useful work is applied. The 350Z incorporates a one-piece driveshaft which is actually carbon fiber reinforced plastic. Final Drive Flywheel A relatively large and heavy metal wheel that is attached to the back of the crankshaft to smooth out the firing impulses. It provides inertia to keep the crankshaft turning smoothly during the periods when no power is being applied. It also forms a base for the starter ring gear and, in manual transmission, for the clutch assembly. Also see engine flywheel and fluid flywheel. This is a large gear mounted to the back of the crankshaft which turns the engine when the starter is cranking. A flywheel is a heavy rotating disk used as a repository for angular momentum. Flywheels resist changes in their rotation speed, which helps steady the rotation of the shaft when an uneven torque is exerted on it by its power source such as a piston-based, (reciprocating) engine, or when the load placed on it is intermittent (such as a piston-based pump). Gearbox A casing for gear sets that transmit power from one rotating shaft to another. A gear box has a number of functions: it is precisely bored to control gear and shaft alignment, it contains the gear oil, and it protects the gears and lubricant from water, dust, and other environmental contaminants. Gear boxes are used in a wide range of industrial, automotive, and home machinery. The shell (metal casing) in which a train of gears is sealed. Gear Ratio The number of revolutions a driving (pinion) gear requires to turn a driven (ring) gear through one complete revolution. For a pair of gears, the ratio is found by dividing the number of teeth on the driven gear by the number of teeth on the driving pinion gear. A gearbox contains several toothed wheels that are connected and disconnected to each other in order to switch into the intended gear. The gear ratio is the ratio between the number of teeth of the two wheels that are connected at a given time. If one wheel has 25 teeth and the attached one has 50, there is a 2:1 ratio. Limited Slip Differential A Limited Slip Differential (LSD) is a modified or derived type of differential gear arrangement that allows for some difference in rotational velocity of the output shafts, but does not allow the difference in speed to increase beyond a preset amount. In a car or automobile, such limited slip differentials are sometimes used in place of a standard differential, where they convey certain dynamic advantages, at the expense of greater complexity. Pumpkin The rear pumpkin, or carrier, houses the final drive gears and differential. Short Shifter Toe Toe relates to the difference in the distance between the front of the tires and the rear of the tires on the same axle, or to the vehicle centerline. Toe-in, or positive toe, is defined as the front of the tires being closer together than the rear of the tires. Toe-out, or negative toe, is when the rear of the tires are closer together than the front of the tires. Zero toe is when the tires are parallel to each other. Effects of Toe: Excessive toe increases tire scuffing and results in tire wear and drag on the vehicle. Excessive toe-in, or positive toe, increases scuffing on the outside of the tire. Excessive toe-out, or negative toe, increases scuffing on the inside of the tire, and in some cases can cause a darting or wandering problem. Bias or bias-belted tires will commonly show a featheredge or saw-tooth toe wear pattern across the entire tire tread area. Any tire wear pattern caused by a toe condition can be further affected by an excess camber condition and may result in irregular wear patterns.

Yeah mate I realise that you are only contemplating at the moment and I was only making you aware that the technical side of the final drive replacement would not be an issue. There would be no drawbacks if this is what you want or require. But, fuel consumption fiqures will suffer slightly as you will be hitting the red line sooner on every gear as the gear ratios from the final drive will now be 3.9 - 1 Your speedometer will also be slightly out. Your car will be slightly faster through the gears but your top end speed will be reduced. Talk to Kev, he should be able to keep you right but not really a cost affective upgrade for you IMVHO. Cheers, Alex

Best done with the engine out, but can be swopped out insitu albeit a bit fiddly.

You have pm mate.

This "upgrade " only gives you a claimed 10% power increase in every gear and not to be confused with 10% bhp power increase overall. Like Stew says best to talk to Kev regarding the other issues but it looks like the kit comprises of only a crown wheel and pinion and you will require seals, gaskets, bearings. shims and oil. If you propose to go ahead with this then I have all the specialist equipment and experience required to set the diff up for you. It is not a big job once the diff is out the car and would cost £150.00 labour for the diff overhaul. This price does not include any parts or the removal and refitting of the diff. Hope this helps, Alex.

10 test drives = 10 M & S vouchers. Visit the M & S lingerie dept and purchase some goodies for your misses. You just can't go wrong and you will get the best of both worlds.

:lol: Brilliant, but oh so true.

As what Darren-B says + it also protects the engine undercarriage from flying debris. Also it is part of the Aero kit with aerodynamic properties. It also serves a purpose with air temperature control and heat dispersing in the engine compartment. If it is sagging in the centre all it will require is a good push up as there are a couple of metal reinforcing strips fixed to the inside of the undertray. Extra fixing points can easily be added by means of cable ties or self tappers with penny washers. How ever I run my Z without the tray as I constantly require access to the twin turbo set up.

Ciao Chuchu, come stai, benvenuto.

sounds exactly the same - Id have to look on my car to see where exactly the little metal connectors for the coolant go from. it's either on the bottom of the body or the bottom of the plenum at the outlet to the throttle body I think that you will find that it is the latter..........

Your lack of boost and overheating will not be connected. I also doubt if your head gaskets have blown. Is the car loosing water and then overheating or is it overheating and then loosing water. Due to the coolant leak from the bottom hose perhaps you may now have an air lock and the system may require bleeding. Is your temp gauge accurate ? The head gaskets will not blow because the car has been sitting for a year. Also are the electric fans working ?

Hi Adam, It looks like the USA plenums and throttle bodies may be different from the U.K. The U.K.throttle bodies do not have any coolant running round them. The coolant is directed to the plenum, very close to where the throttle body fixes to the plenum and in effect heats that part of the plenum and the heat then radiates from the plenum to the throttle body. Same principles apply of course. Alex.

Nah if it was he would be trying to sell him his daughter for 2 ruppees I would be up for that

I will let you know when I receive the draft and when I send the stuff and his change. Can't go far wrong with a bank draft.

Hi Mate, A user with no posts tho............ Maybe got a secret admirer

Received this pm. Anyone receive any thing similar ? Rather strange I thought !!!!! Alex. From: chuchu To: ZMANALEX Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 12:37 am Subject: msn request hi alex i want to know if you have msn and if you can agrre me chrzamolo@hotmail.com because i want to know if you have some stuff for sale!! please agree me as soon as possible thanks bye bye !!

This is a common issue with some of the bonnet lifters. There are different lengths available, looks like you have got the short ones. Alex.

Around £345 including material and vat for a quality job. Best to remove the bumper for a top finish. Sorry, can't help with a recommended repairer as I live in the Extreme North. Alex. Have you got somebody in Perth that does a good job, Alex? Yes mate, there is a guy just down the road from me that I use most of the time. I can put you in touch if you wish. He is a bit slow but he turns out a good job.

I have three available, all in different states of condition. 1 x as new condition £125.00 1 x excellent condition £75.00 1 x good condition £50.00 Are you planning to polish it ? Shipping would be £15.00 and good to go. Cheers, Alex. Hi alex, U still got the £50.00 one? And have prices gone up Sorry mate all the above are sold. As you know I have 3 others all in excellent to new condition at £100 each. Cheers, Alex.

Around £345 including material and vat for a quality job. Best to remove the bumper for a top finish. Sorry, can't help with a recommended repairer as I live in the Extreme North. Alex.

I have a spare brand new Genuine Nismo GT Titanium if you are interested, still in box. Cheers, Alex.

HKS are also pretty expensive HKS are also pretty good

Bleeding Brake System AFS000U0 CAUTION: While bleeding, pay attention to master cylinder fluid level. 1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear left air bleeder. 3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times. 4. With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the air bleeder to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately. 5. Repeat steps 3, 4 until no more air comes out. 6. Tighten the air bleeder to the specified torque. Refer to BR-25, "Components" ,BR-31, "Component" ,BR- 38, "Components" ,BR-44, "Components" . 7. In steps 2 to 6 below, with the master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air from the front right, rear right, and front left tires, in that order.