ZMANALEX

Just like to add for the avoidance of doubt: The above part numbers are not suitable for the HR. Alex.

If you have swopped out your OEM dual mass fly for a single mass alumium lightened fly then this may well be your problem but impossible to diagnose without personally driving the car. If the fly has not been fitted properly then vibrations through the cabin will result. Also in some instances the vibrations may occur if the clutch kit and fly are out of balance or if there is excessive flywheel run-out which is evidence of improper fit. Aluminium expands at twice the rate of steel so precission installation is imperative. The alumium fly has to go on tighter at ambient temperatures for a proper tight fit at running temperatures. The alumium flywheel to crankshaft fit may vary from interference to slip. Replacing OEM dual mass flywheels with single mass will also result in added gearbox noise from the idler gears. The above are just a few examples of issues once clutch and flywheels are upgraded and is not exhaustive. Also stage 3 clutches also do tend to thrash and chatter quite a bit. Any experienced competent 350Z technician should be capable of accurately diagnosing your issues with a short test drive, without having to strip out your transmission and clutch. Alex.

Not half as mean as my current Roadster

Jerry, Harness pics from my old car. Alex.

4 more sets arrived today Still only £240.00 delivered next day including Insurance and Tracking.

There are no self adjusters on either of the Zed belts. Both belts do have to very tight and are easily adjusted from underneath the car once you remove the lower engine tray. Alex.

Here you go Chris.

I have spoken, check your pm inbox.

I have a new set lying around that I never got round to fitting.

Jerry, I am fast learning that your favourite phrase is " How Much" I have loads in stock mate as I change mine every month. They are about £5.00 + shipping but you would be just as cheap sourcing from your local Nissan dealer. Part # 15208-9F600 Remember the crush washer Oh! and to save you another post and another question the crush washers are about 50P Cheers, Alex.

Adrian, the best clutch for your paticular application would be DK (Diaken) Exedy Globalparts Corporation. Marry that up to a Fidanza Aluminium Flywheel and you would be well sorted mate. No requirement for you to upgrade to the other stuff that you mention. Clutch Kit £285.00 Clutch/Fly £575.00 Hope this helps. Cheers, Alex. Don't suppose you fit them too do you? My list of stuff to buy from you grows but finding somewhere to do the work for me is shrinking Yes mate, fitting is not an issue, but there may be geographicall issues for you. Cheers, Alex.

+2 even when running big power.

Nice man in Scotland could save you a fortune Preowned 9000 mile pas oil cooler and brand new hoses available. pm for details if required. Cheers, Alex.

Hi Chris, I am not a Trader but I have a spare brand new Nismo GT Titanium gear knob available. IMHO this is the very best upgraded gear knob on the market as it is perfectly weighted and greatly improves the feel of the shift change. pm if interested. Alex.

ECUs are not to be experimented with . Stick with the trusted few. Please no questions, just trust me.

I have had 4 pms sitting in my outbox for 4 days now, which were sent to guys who are regulars. No they do not owe me money I am a little concerned that they may think that I am not responding to them.

Total waste of money if used on a regular basis if you are running on proper fuel. You only have a problem when you have a problem and that is the time to use it. I use it periodically just to clean all the @*!# out on the TT.

All that for a lousy 12volt power socket

Hi Jim, my pleasure, glad you got there in the end mate. Good effort:thumbs: The first time is always the worse especially when you are dealing with interior trim. Next time to save any embarrassment might be wise to pm me mate or just pop up the road and pay me a visit. Anyway, what are you looking for in there. Cheers Alex

Okay let's take a step back. What panel are you actually trying to remove.? The panel above the passenger footwell which incorporates the cup-holder. Sorry I can't describe it any better. I found, and have undone, the two screws at the bottom of the panel, and have pulled out the clips up the side and along the top, but there is something still holding it in place either above or behind the cup holder. I don't want to use too much force in case I damage something. You appear to have all the screws romoved etc except for the one behind the cup holder. I have this panel off at least once a month to access my ECU and Vpro You have to remove the complete cup holder assembly from the dash in one piece to access the bolt. Pulling out the cup holder to the extended position is not enough. If this is your issue then you have to pull out the cup holder to the extended position and with a thin flat blade screwdriver release the clip holding the complete unit to the dash. Once the cupholder assembly is removed completely from the dash, then you will see the screw. ALex.

Okay let's take a step back. What panel are you actually trying to remove.?

Adam.... who the **** is Adam

Space out the sensors to get them out the direct flow of the exhaust flow.

If you apply a few sharp taps to the cup holder then it should release. Failing that apply a bit of finger pressure while levering out gently with a small flat blade screwdriver. Yes you are correct that there is a screw behind it, but if you follow the above then all should be well and there would be no need to break it. Cheers, guys, managed to unblock the jam and get the cup holder to move in and out. Damned if I can see where that screw is, though, to allow me to remove the panel. Lee reckoned there was a guide somewhere for removing this panel - anybody know where to find it? If I recall correctly there are 3 screws mate. One either side at the bottom of the panel and one directly behind the cup holder. You can't really miss them. There are no screws at the top. Alex.

Many manufactures of engines are now recommending that cylinder head bolts etc. should be tightened over and above a preset torque rating by so many degrees. If all you require it for is wheel and caliper torque then any entry level conventional TW will suffice.