ZMANALEX

Didnt Adam say the long one was best for the Zed due to the distance to the bar? Hope I'm wrong +1

Are you about to quote a 2 and half year old thread? ehm, no, but any FI application for the Zed "requires" a true dual exhaust to reduce back pressure and heat build up. +1......True Dual took 10 degrees off mine.

I would still be very interested in what the previous owner has to say,

to the forum.

My thoughts are as I have stated previously What you have there are cyl compression readings which are of no relevance to your issues. A Cylinder Leakage Test will identify any internal issues partaining to the above but my guess is that there is piston damage caused by det. Alex.

I did not say major det It will not take much det to damage a piston on the VQ35 and in most cases lack of power will not be evident in the early stages. Trust me I have been there Would you like some pictures? Also a Cylinder Leakage Tester 2 Gauge would identify any potential internal issues re. bypass. But I would suspect that this has already been done and that the seller knows exactly what is wrong with his power unit.

Try a TPS reset.

Do you really know what you may be letting yourself in for. More than likely det will have occurred causing potential piston damage. Poor control over ignition and fuel combined with oem internals is always a recipe for disaster with fi applications:surrender: Do not be fooled by the seller's sob tale as I am sure that he knows exactly what the issues are. The connection between clutch and failure is the CPS. Alex

Here you go mate:

Agree, but I understood from Jerry that his harness had hook fasteners and that there were no buckles or brackets on the webbing to facilitate a wrap over. I did suggest by pm that an introduction of a buckle and the removal of the hook fastener would allow a wrap over application. I think that a stabilizer fitted to under the bar leading down to the floor adds extra support to the bar if the webbing was to go over the bar and down to the floor. I personally prefer eye bolts welded to the Harness Bar. I think that he will have enough information now to make an informed decision.

Yes, you will have slight movement with the Sparco Harness Bar, but stabilizer bars do help. These Harness Bars are designed for the belt to be wrapped around the bar and fixed to an eye bolt in the floor. Jerry asked me how to fix the belt to the bar and I have replied accordingly.

Jerry, If you do not want to fit the harness to the floor using eye bolts then the belt can be fitted to the harness cross bar. You can remove the hook fastener from the belt and wrap the belt round the bar and secure with a buckle. Or you can weld short eye bolts to the bar and retain the hook fastener as in the pictures below from my old purple Z. This is the way that I would recommend if you want to fit the belt to the bar and have a safe system. Alex.

Hi Dave and to the forum.

to the club Lyndsey, good luck with the search for a car, buyer's market out there

Here you go guys, available in any colour of finish and decal of your choice.

Any ideas how much disconnecting the aircon helps. Is it an un-noticeable amount? ie. less than 10bhp? It helps but un-noticeable on road. Removing the pump will also shed some weight.

Annual proper adjustment is key. Preferably just before MOT time.

Yes safe, but not recommended as the cut off is quite vicious.

As Jon has said. Communication with your tuner is key.

to the forum.

Andy, Do not start up your car mate if you fit the Dastek Unichip as you will cause expensive damage. The Unichip will not revert to base map if it was mapped for FI. Fueling (injectors) and ignition being the main issues. Best leave it to the "experts" mate.

£883.12 each to be exact.

Is it the front sensors on the manifolds or the rear sensors after the cats ? If it is the rear sensors then you will not require to replace the sensors as I have a cheap fix for that as I posted previously. What were the fault codes ? Alex. Alex, I was told it was the front sensors, so maybe not so cheap a fix... It appears that it wasn't damage caused by bottoming out, but general wear and tear... (maybe scraping the underside of the car pushed it over the edge!) I haven't picked the car up yet, possibly this afternoon, but I'll definately post up fault codes if I can get them... Thanks again for your advice. Ross I doubt very much if the front sensors are faulty but if they are then I do have spares if you need them.

A pleasure to meet you as well Derek and glad that you had fun. That is the first time that I have run the low boost map (.85bar) Usually I run at 1.2 bar but I wanted to get some data to compare with. The car was 1.7560 secs per lap slower on the low map (which I ran with for the complete session) and my up gear changes were all at completely different positions on the track as it was taking longer to reach the desired rpm. All in all a great night and thanks for coming. Cheers, Alex.

Is it the front sensors on the manifolds or the rear sensors after the cats ? If it is the rear sensors then you will not require to replace the sensors as I have a cheap fix for that as I posted previously. What were the fault codes ? Alex.