ZMANALEX

If something is catching, then you will easily see it once underneath.

Brake Pads maybe.

Well worth a look at. Worth around 15k IMHO providing it checks out okay and if date of first registration is 2005. etc.etc.etc. Easy to map to lower numbers for those that are uncomfortable with the present.

I use a tyre pen on my sets of track tyres so that I can quickly at a glance know which ones go where.

Stew had a similar problem on track around 6 weeks ago. Turned out that oil was passing up the dipstick tube and dripping onto the exhaust. You may have a similar issue but not necessarily from the dipstick area.

I have plenty spare Dave but you would be quicker popping into your local Nissan parts department.

Immy As what Chris has said plus. P0031 Heated O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0037 Heated O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2) P0051 Heated O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P0057 Heated O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 2) You have PM. Alex.

Here, this will help you where to look and your telescopic flexable magnet should do the rest. Are you sure that the washer definately went into the oil filler? Looking down the filler with a bore scope should locate the demon. Even looking down the oil filler with only your eye will reveal quite a large surface area of the cyl head. Alex.

You really would be much better with a flexy telescopic screwdriver type magnet as you would have much more control over it. To get in touch just pm me if you have issues and I will send over a contact phone number.

I am also considoring this. Alex do you suplly top wishbone kits and toe and camber bolt kits? If not where could I get them from. Thanks Your best bet for the above is one of the Traders on here. Start with CS or Envy but there are others. The answer to your other question is that the stock zed does not have a facility to adjust the camber on the front, so adjustable ball joints must be fitted to allow adjusting the camber back to oem settings. Toe is not an issue on the front. On the rear there is limited adjustment for the camber with the oem snail cams, so larger bolts are fitted to help solve this issue. If the new camber and toe bolts do not do the trick then adjustable arms will have to be fitted.

Now working for me.

It will be sitting on the top of the head beside the cam shafts and valve springs and should not go down any further although there is a large gap at the very front beside the cam sprockets and chains so be very careful. Like the guys have suggested a strong telescopic magnet may lift it out, failing that, cam cover off I am afraid. I can talk you through this if you have any isues. Alex.

What options?????

30 mm is quite a drop so you will require the top wishbone kit to get the camber back into line on the front You should get away with the toe and camber bolt kits on the rear.

Get insurance in place and go for it big style. You will regret it for ever if you don't.

I can help you with this Jeffr. You have PM.

Yes, you do require that metal plate refitted. It is there for a reason.

Great prices for a selection of great products

Some photos for those that are interested http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnsidc/s ... 862511933/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnsidc/s ... 986683264/

Like I said Dave, if you find removing the 4 hub retaining bolts troublesome then you will have to remove the hub carrier.

Yeah Derek conditions were great untill 5 pm and then the heavens opened. I was knackered by then, 247 laps, 240 litres of V Power, a set of tyres and brake pads. Was starting to get severe cramps in my hands and the hamstrings were tightening up and my neck and shoulders were aching. Besides the issue with that one boost pipe (now fixed) the car performed absolutely brilliantly. Like you say I was a bit surprised at the lack of interest from the local younger forum members but those that did make it including Steve and Claire had a real hoot. Oh and I think that Vik and her mate had some serious fun. Back out again on Monday night 6pm - 8pm ......... all welcome.

The front wheel bearings are easy to replace if you are handy with the tools. Wheel off. Calliper off. Leave hydraulics connected. Disc off. Remove 4 bolts from inside hub carrier. Remove hub. Swop out bearings. If you find removing the 4 bolts troublesome then simply remove the complete hub carrier and do it on the bench. I have a few preowned front hubs available complete with bearings. £85.00 each. Alex.

If you are referring to the rear exit pipe hanging lower than other then this is an easy fix by bending the bracket that the rear rubber hanger fits to. I haven't a clue what metal plate you are referring to. Is it a Roadster or Coupe?

Cheers for making us all look stupid Alex. I take back the good things I said about you now Every day is a school day matey. I will have to start charging you for your education.

I think that they are all now hiding.