ZMANALEX

Rule number one: New discs = new pads. Providing new discs and pads have been fitted correctly then a proper bleed will get rid of any trapped air. Regarding vibes at speed: If this is experienced without braking then it will be a balance issue. If the vibes are only experienced when braking then it will be a brake issue. Also ask them to check that a small particle of rust or similar has not got trapped between the new disc and the hub as this would give you an imbalance due to the run out of the disc.

Yes mate I can help you with this. pm me if you still require. Alex.

A clicky drive shaft issue is not a fault that can be pinpointed with observation so it would not be obvious to the technician whilst doing his drive shaft check within the service. The inspection check within the service requires the technician to actually just quickly have a visual over the drive shafts where he is predominantly looking more at the CV rubber boots for splitting and discharge of greaze as opposed to any form of mechanical failure. Indeed the Nissan garage has specialist sounding equipment that they are meant to use to trace and quantify the sound level of the clicking axle before Nissan U.K. will authorise a warranty claim. That is why I asked the question in my first post, what does he mean by dry and what is actually dry ? Perhaps you do now have a clicky rear axle and perhaps it is coincidence but the service manager has complicated things with his comments. There is nothing that the garage can do to your car whilst in for servicing and brakes that would induce a clicky rear axle.

If indeed it is a greaze and rotate that they are proposing then this may cure a clicky axle on a temporary basis if that is what you actually have. Replacing the bolts and nuts on the diff flange will not cure your noises but is actually only recommended by Nissan as good engineering practice as the workshop manual states that they should be replaced whenever removed and should not be reused. I have these drive shafts off every other week and I reuse the diff flange bolts time and again with no adverse issues. Who is to say that the outlay of £146.00 will cure your problem. May be a good idea to take some one along to the dealer with you to help you fight your corner.

If that is what he said then IMHO he is at it. Removing the wheels will not dislodge or make dry anything relating to the drive shafts.

Looks like they are proposing to do the rotate and greaze procedure and replace the inner drive shaft bolts. What exactly did they mean by "dry" ?

All depends on how lucky you are, sometimes it makes no difference at all but there have been a few reports of varied success.

Hi Matt, I can help you with this. I removed mine last month when I moved up to 3". £100.00 including the bungs and plugs. Cheers, Alex.

I would be thinking that it is brake related and as the guys have suggested take it back to the dealer for rectification. In my opinion it is to much of a coincidence that you now have a clicky axle issue after your visit to the dealer but if it turns out to be exactly that then just give me a shout as I have the kits good to go next day. Cheers, Alex.

Cheers for all the comments guys, these are going to look absolutely awesome on Mathys's Zed. Available in any colour if anyone fancies something different. Brembo graphics also available in red, blue, black and white etc. Cheers, Alex.

I will open up a new topic for the Cosworth plenum (with pics) so that Mathys Brembo topic does not get hijacked. Alex.

Nope............

You have pm Craig.

We have Nismo copy side skirts in stock And as you know Gman I have the rest of the kit available (Genuine Nismo)

He requires M12 x P1.25

1.25 is the pitch mate. This should explain it better than I ever could. http://www.boltscience.com/pages/screw6.htm

Its all the one system and all thats been done is bleeding to remove any air. What do you mean by back flushing? I thought that was the same as bleeding the system. No mate, normal flushing and back flushing is not the same as bleeding. Bleeding is a procedure where you follow the previous instructions posted to remove air from the system. Flushing is a procedure where you disconnect the appropriate hoses and force water through the system ie Block, Radiator, Heater Matrix, Hoses, Pipes to remove any potential gunge which may be blocking or restricting the coolant flow. Usually the pressure from a normal garden hose will suffice. Once you have flushed and back flushed and the coolant flow is as it should be then further bleeding will be required.

But have you back flushed the radiator and the heater matrix (core) as I and the garage technician has suggested. This has worked for me in the past when the flaps start to chatter.

Exhaust Knock ???????

Thats just showing off Of course it is

Hi mate, it is not a big job, but the gearbox has to come out. In all, around 3 - 4 hours work with an average cost for labour of £200.00 inclusive. It is not good engineering practice just to replace the bearing, so you should consider replacing the complete clutch kit. The bearing will cost about £20.00 if you were to buy it on its own, or the complete Exedy Clutch kit including the bearing will cost £285.00. I have all in stock for immediate shipping. Cheers, Alex.

I have the o2 spacers / simulators if you require them.

Exactly as I recommended in my previous post...... So have you done this?

Nice one Martin.

Careful guys, as the Nismo logo does not look authentic to me.