ec2a350z

Sorry for posting in the wrong section pm sent

Hi Everyone, There are some really harsh speed bumps around where I live and I think driving over them has caused my undertray to come loose and now it is hanging off! Anyone have any suggestion about where to get a new one from or how I can repair the old one? The fixings have broken. I've got a 03 reg. Any help would be great! Cheers

Hopefully next week mate I have PM'd you my number txt me we will train next week

Well as for how much £750 to the Mrs less some he owed me call it £300. But to people that know about these things it was engine out and full strip down, no stone unturned. KKK's oh and Chilli I'm sure I have seen yours on the A3 near Oxshott?

No it's not wrapped, full respray and I will never apply any stickers nor race the thing purely a few miles a week to work and back.

Please let me know which one yo think looks better

No I dont beleive I have that function but these are the wires I have on both sides these are the wires on the mirror:- purple yellow orange pink blue These are on the door grey purple yellow green red

Hi all I hope there is somebody out there that can help me. I have recently taken my mirrors apart and have had to take the pins out of the plug to take the mirrors out of the housing. I did have photos of it on my phone but I have since lost my phone, please please please could somebody help with a picture or a wiring diagram would be great and also are the pins in the same order for both sides? Many Thanks It is 2003 import

I listen to electro and house music, the total spent I had on mind was £600 for amp and x2 10inch subs and £140 for one of those sub boxes that goes underneath the strut brace a the back. Do the subs and amp both have to be 2 ohms? Is that the correct for Bose, I really want to keep speakers and head unit standard. Thanks

Please could anyone give me advice on a good 10 inch sub and amp as I want new ones, I will keep the Bose head unit but I can't understand from previous threads exactly what ohms the Bose runs on I think it's 2ohms? Thanks Lee

Hi, If you had poor paintwork and were hell bent on getting a full re-spray shuts and all, would you go for the same colour? or different? I have some colours in mind metallic baby blue or white, but I am concerned about the engine bay. The painter has offered me the option of engine out but I'm not sure, the additional costs of engine out are a bit more than I anticipated. With the engine bay would you have him unbolt as much as possible and mask the rest then paint it black regardless of body colour? Or just go or the same colour (Gun Metal Grey) and be done with it? **Please put aside my colour choice and let me know pro's and cons, I know the costs involved for a proper job but can't really justify the extra engine out costs. As well as the de-valuation of a colour change is there any problem with the engine bay being black and the car being white or blue?** Thanks Lee

Does anyone know if you can re-map the ECU on a JDM auto?, spoke to one of the guys at Abbey Motorsport and he doesn't yet have the mapping on autos? anyone know anything about this? Lee

Morning Campers... Please help only when cold, I start my Zed to drive 2 miles to work and every time I turn right there is a grinding whooring noise sounds as if the tyre is rubbing on the arch. I have stoped popped bonet got missus to turn steering wheel and it does sound like the noise is coming from bottom of the engine not the driver side wheel area in my non mechanical opinion. Also noted PAS fluid is slightly low?, I have seen other posts that may suggest PAS Belt but I can't see a post which confirms this. Noting the noise always disappears once warmed up and over the last week the noise is becoming more vicious like EEEEEEEEEeeeeeeeAaAaAhhhhhhh PLEASE HELP AM I FU%$^ing it by driving it???

Thanks guys for all your help. Can anyone confirm that replacing the motor will definitely fix the problem?

Hi there guys. I’m looking for a little bit of help on an issue I have with my Fairlady Z at the moment. The driver’s side window has become very temperamental, and doesn’t operate properly when I try to use the electric window. It sometimes responds and sometimes doesn’t. I have to tap it a few times on occasion and that can resolve the issue, or sometimes I can’t get it to work at all. This has only been a problem since I was in a minor incident and a dent was beaten out at a local garage. I have looked into a new motor for the window, but it costs £289.00 and comes from Japan, so I’m reluctant to buy as I can’t send back if it isn’t the issue. Does it sound like a motor problem or could it potentially be a regulator? I’m just wondering if anyone has had any experience of this or anything similar before, and if anyone could pass on any advice on what my next step should be. Cheers in advance, Lee