ZMANALEX

to the forum.

Its a 350z thing, they all do that so a new clutch wont solve it I believe. No, but a new fly might.

There are 6 week part time welding courses available across UK colleges. Where is your nearest college?

Mike, 99% of the time a new slave, fluid and braided line will fix the issue on a DE. (About 1 hrs work) You can inspect the fork etc if you remove the rubber "grommet" around the fork on the side of the gearbox. If your clutch is working again after pulling the pedal up then it wont be the fork or ball pin. At 104k it is probably time for a new clutch and fly anyway, however this is not your current issue. Alex.

This issue has been covered a million times on here. Did you not even bother to Search? Is your car a DE or HR ?

https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=car%20body%20shops%20in%20glasgow

9000 miles, however to be fair I had to upgrade to an ATS Carbonetic twin plate to support the power upgrades. That was in 2006 and the twin plate is still going strong. The stock oem clutch kit is manufactured by Exedy and is the same kit that I used to sell on here. I must have sold over 500 of them and not one single complaint

Keep practising and go on a college evening course

to the forum and as what Ebized and the other guys have said, Go for the HR.

The slip light will come on if driven hard, however the issue will be your low brake fluid.

to the forum.

It is an engine in situ job. I have done 3 so far and got the time down to 4 hrs. Probably at least a days work if first time.

If you had searched low oil pressure, you would have quickly found the answer to your problem. Sorry to hear that UK forum members were of no help.

I have pre owned centre consoles in stock (gearbox tunnel) but not the upper centre console that houses the stereo. Just drop me a PM if I can help further. Alex.

There are numerous over the past 12 months. Here is one from May this year: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/98208-hr-low-oil-pressure-the-answer/page__hl__pressure

to the forum.

This is an issue that has been covered a few times previously on this forum as a few members have had this problem. The upgraded gaskets fix this issue.

Available in the UK. Drop some of the Traders on here a PM. Alex.

Sorry, double post.

Had a look at your image and notice that you have already replaced the "traction arm".. Drawing on past experiences, you will never get your geometry set correctly with this arm. As per my post #20, my advice would be to refit the OEM traction arm and buy a proper lower adjustable toe arm which is compatible with your true coil overs. http://www.splparts.com/spl-titanium-rear-toe-links-350z-g35/ And remember the lock out kits. Job Done.

Okay, then all you will require is an adjustable toe arm if running true coil overs. Not expensive and easy to fit. Beware, many traders advertise the front link as a toe arm, traction arm etc. DO NOT USE THIS AS A TOE ARM.

to the forum.

This is what you will require if you are not true coil over + a pair of swift springs. http://www.splparts.com/spl-titanium-rear-mid-links-350z-g35/ I do not sell these parts, but I know a man who does. Alex.

You could try the toe bolts, however I suspect that you may require adjustable toe arms to dial this back to suitable tolerances. Or you could run less negative camber as a trade off.

That is normal.