ZMANALEX

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Hi There Where would you go about purchasing rear inserts, tried searching but found nothing. What exhaust and tail pipe design are you running? Stock for now, trying to weigh up my option if I get something louder. Bungs come in different shapes and sizes, so no point searching or buying until you have your new exhaust.

Hi There Where would you go about purchasing rear inserts, tried searching but found nothing. What exhaust and tail pipe design are you running?

No difference, and plenty in stock and good to go same/next day if required. Alex.

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to the forum. I notice you have found the technical section.

If your geometry is within tolerances at the moment with the RSRs then you will probably have correction kits fitted already, however if not, then you will be fine with oem with the Teins.

Just knock out the old one and compare the splines: simples.

Front and rear are different lengths. As said, why be lazy, just measure one that is not broken.

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to the forum.

to the forum.

Well it could be rod bearing / crank but that is the bottom and you said top of engine. The bucket sits between the top of the valve and the lobe of the cam. Best to let a pro have a listen as the above are just a few informed guestimates.

Cam or bucket possibly.

Only had the Vortis on for a couple of weeks so just scrubbed in and put a few heat cycles in them. So far so good on track but not tried them in the wet yet. Just ran air as Nitrogen is not true Nitrogen as got to much water vapour in it for my liking. Ran them at 34 instead of 29psi. which fixed the roll. Was a bit concerned with the 99Y on the front but all good. To early to write a review however initial findings are encouraging. And at £640.00 well worth a trial. Alex.

I run Vorti R: 265 35 20 99 Y XL and 305 30 20 103Y XL Also run MPSS: 275 35 20 102Y XL and 305 30 20 103Y XL

to the forum from sunny Perth, just up the road from you.

I find it best to remove bumper, front panel, rads and fans. A few extra hours work, however much easier when re-timing the engine.

I would be more concerned with the oil light issue to be perfectly honest. The missfire would require further informed diagnoses, however without that I would start with the plugs or coil packs. Alex.

Loads of 97 up here

GLWTS.

If you had a major crack, then I think that you would know about it. A wet compression test is simply a way of getting an indication if you have oil ring issues. Just drop equal amounts of oil down each bore and carry out a compression test and compare your dry and wet readings. It is not conclusive but will give you an indication.

To busy watching the GT-R behind him

Not a good idea mate.

A dry compression test will not give you any indication of wear relating to oil consumption or smoke emissions.