ZMANALEX

It is an engine in situ job. I have done 3 so far and got the time down to 4 hrs. Probably at least a days work if first time.

If you had searched low oil pressure, you would have quickly found the answer to your problem. Sorry to hear that UK forum members were of no help.

I have pre owned centre consoles in stock (gearbox tunnel) but not the upper centre console that houses the stereo. Just drop me a PM if I can help further. Alex.

There are numerous over the past 12 months. Here is one from May this year: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/98208-hr-low-oil-pressure-the-answer/page__hl__pressure

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This is an issue that has been covered a few times previously on this forum as a few members have had this problem. The upgraded gaskets fix this issue.

Available in the UK. Drop some of the Traders on here a PM. Alex.

Sorry, double post.

Had a look at your image and notice that you have already replaced the "traction arm".. Drawing on past experiences, you will never get your geometry set correctly with this arm. As per my post #20, my advice would be to refit the OEM traction arm and buy a proper lower adjustable toe arm which is compatible with your true coil overs. http://www.splparts.com/spl-titanium-rear-toe-links-350z-g35/ And remember the lock out kits. Job Done.

Okay, then all you will require is an adjustable toe arm if running true coil overs. Not expensive and easy to fit. Beware, many traders advertise the front link as a toe arm, traction arm etc. DO NOT USE THIS AS A TOE ARM.

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This is what you will require if you are not true coil over + a pair of swift springs. http://www.splparts.com/spl-titanium-rear-mid-links-350z-g35/ I do not sell these parts, but I know a man who does. Alex.

You could try the toe bolts, however I suspect that you may require adjustable toe arms to dial this back to suitable tolerances. Or you could run less negative camber as a trade off.

That is normal.

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Welcome to the forum. I feel your pain.

Welcome to the forum.

Just give them a shout, I am sure that they will sort it out for you pronto. Alex.

Bank 1 is driver's side providing you are driving a RHD car. Bank 1 has the straight sensor.

Possibly CPS issue or flywheel fitted in wrong position. Alex.

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Sorry mate, got 4 x L/H DE cats in stock but unfortunately no R/H, Alex.

It is very unusual for oem bushings to fail so quickly. As the centre of the bushings are off centre they do have to be pressed into the compression rod in a fixed position for caster tollerences. If this has not been done correctly then extra load may be placed on the bushings causing premature failure Also: The maximum force to remove the old bushings must not exceed 4,49 tons. The maximum force to fit the new bushing must not exceed 3,93 tons. And finally a force of 1.12 ton should be applied to the new bushing (once fitted) as a test to confirm that it is tight enough in the compression rod. If any of these 3 tollerences are negative, then new compression rods should be fitted. PM on its way with more info: Alex.

This will work for you if you want to remain stock. So all you have to decide is if you go DMF or SMF. However if you want to use the car hard on the road or track days then the Xtreme kit CMS posted up is the one to go for. All the above are available from CMS so no need to go to ECP. Alex.