ZMANALEX

back Rich, lovely looking Nismo

Let her return and then send her to jail for a lengthy time behind bars.

I have this if it is any good to you which is off a 370 but fitment will depend on what "Y" you have

M12 x 1mm confirmed.

On track it really should not be a problem as common sense tells you that if you have a fire then you should drive as fast as you can to the next marshall post, jump out and run like fook and leave them to deal with it. If I wanted to fight fires then I would have joined the Fire Brigade. However, a proper extinguisher does come in handy if you have a small fire in the paddock or fuel igniting during a refill.

My bad, should be M12 x 1mm if I recall correctly, however, I have these ends in the shop so will measure the pitch tomorrow when back in the shop.

M10 x 1mm

To be ultra safe, disconnect the battery, TB and ECU.

If indeed you do have an external oil leak I would be looking at the cam cover gaskets. if these were leaking, the engine oil would drop onto the exhaust manifold. However, it may just be the fumes from other vehicles as you say that it is only when stuck in traffic. Have you tried adjusting your heater, air con. controls when this happens?

Of course you would. You would exit the car first before grabbing the extinguisher, so in my book probably safer and easier to run to the back of the car instead of round the car to the passenger side.

I think that the extinguisher positioning is functional providing the boot does not jam shut. The quick release clamp on the extinguisher will provide a quick release. I have my extinguisher on the passenger side floor, however, as being a Roadster I have no option unless I fix to the floor of the boot. In case of fire, the first priority is to get the belts off and out the car, so retrieving the extinguisher from the rear strut brace should not prove difficult. Regarding the look of the car, absolutely fine for track use, but ott for road use. All you need is some extra power to match the looks. Keep up the good work.

Go easy on the ones to the headers, as you don't want to snap them.

Plenty in stock and good to go same/next day, just drop me a PM if I can help you further

The heater matrix flap issue can be tricky to diagnose, however, process of elimination is key. Induce the fault and have a play with the heater controls to see if the noise changes. Failing that it would appear that it is gearbox back out again time for further inspection, but best to let a 350 specialist have a listen for an informed diagnoses prior to pulling the box.

The price will vary greatly depending on the standard and quality of the job. Get a few written quotes from various body/paint shops with a full description of there proposed repairs. Then go with the one that you feel most comfortable with.

Probably the motor, even though you appear to have discounted it. Fully working preowned motors are in stock for Roadsters at the minute if required. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

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Possible causes: for DTC P2101 Faulty Electric Throttle Control (ETC) Actuator Electric Throttle Control (ETC) Actuator harness is open or shorted Electric Throttle Control (ETC) Actuator circuit poor electrical connection The throttle actuator is operated by the Engine Control Module (ECM) and it opens and closes the throttle valve. Power supply for the throttle control motor is provided to the ECM via throttle control motor relay. The throttle control motor relay is ON/OFF controlled by the ECM. When the ignition switch is turned ON, the ECM sends an ON signal to throttle control motor relay and battery voltage is provided to the ECM. When the ignition switch is turned OFF, the ECM sends an OFF signal to throttle control motor relay and battery voltage is not provided to the ECM. The opening angle of the throttle valve is detected by the throttle position sensor which is mounted on the throttle body. The throttle position sensor provides feedback to the ECM. This feedback allows the ECM to control the throttle actuator and monitor the throttle opening angle in response to driver inputs.

Are you planning on this "basic underseal" to be an annual occurrence/expenditure?

Just to be clear guys, there is only one crank sensor on the DE and HR models. I think that you may be getting confused with the cam sensors which can vary between 1 per bank to 2 per bank depending on your model. Avoid cam and crank sensors from Ebay as they are rubbish with no longevity. Always fit genuine Nissan OEM to save all the ball ache.

It will cost more than £100.00 just for decent materials alone. It will take about 8 hours labour to fully prep, apply and clean up for a proper job. If £100.00 is your budget then best to not bother and save your money for other goodies.

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If you are proposing to spend £250.00 on a pair of tyres, might be a plan to get the correct size:

At these prices it has got to be brand new: Special Deals for February/March2019: 350Z DE Exedy 3 piece clutch kit and LUK Dual Mass Fly: Only £525.00.(SOLD OUT) 350Z DE OEM Ignition Coil Packs: (RRP: £106.74) My Price Only: £39.50. 350Z HR OEM Ignition Coil Packs: (RRP: £114.27) My Price Only: £49.50. 350Z DE & HR New Genuine Nissan Battery Covers: £19.95.

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