Ekona

So a bit more on these then. Had a good run out on Sunday in the MR2, and I have to say I'm impressed. Perhaps more so than when I used them in previous years: I'd be amazed if something in the construction hadn't changed. Temps were around 5c, roads were damp but it wasn't raining, and there was some sun peeking through the clouds. Roads were some good condition DCs and associated roundabouts, and some smaller B-roads still in good nick. Grip from both front and rear was plentiful throughout, far surpassing the 050As I run on the 911, and feel was certainly more than acceptable if not stellar. There were a few moments where I had the front end wash out, but this was more to me testing the limit by being deliberately ham-fisted than any failure on the R888's part. Road noise was pretty horrendous, but the car is stripped out so perhaps more noticeable than otherwise. All in, I reckon they're still a good option for those who run their cars for fun but still want use this time of year. More updates as I drive the car over this Xmas period.

Rained a bit here too, but then it is winter so hardly surprising.

Why? A 10w40 is the same when warm as a 5w40. Really, you want a thinner oil in the winter than in the summer, to get lubricating more quickly when cold.

No-one would feel the same if it was their son or daughter, but then parents are odd folks who will often defend a murderer or rapist just because they pushed them out from their lady garden.

This thread is outrageous! How dare you come on here, with your common-sense attitude to an FI build, getting all the important stuff beforehand, and having a well sorted plan of action rather than just throwing money and hoping for the best! Scandalous! Top work fella, I wish you the best. I'd consider doing the brakes too as a supporting mod. I may not bother with an engine build unless you are looking for silly power, too. The only thing I will say is that by the time you've completed this you'll have spent what, £3k on support mods, £5k on an engine build, another £5k on the s/c kit: That's nearly £15K, plus the value of your car at say £5k, so that's £20k which would go a long way towards your dream of a GT-R. As exciting as your project would be, is it as exciting as living a dream? I'm not sure. Just a thought though.

Why do you post short acronyms in a serious thread? What's the point. Your pretty good with words. I do it rarely, for effect rather than often, because I'm lazy Personally I think that piloting a 1.5 ton lump of metal in poor conditions at silly speeds on public roads and putting innocent lives at danger isn't too much different to running around a playground throwing knives in random directions at 3pm. In this case they only took their own lives, which is a small price to pay for the risk they were taking. If they'd been racing on a deserted piece of well-sighted road in the dry then perhaps my view may differ, but that wasn't the case. If the passengers didn't know what was about to happen when they got in the car then they're as stupid as the driver.

Looks like she's been making a right mess, she's turned your kitchen upside-down!

IMHO, YMMV etc.

They'd have heard the BOV going off and put 2 & 2 together to come up with 36. I just hope the lorry driver is okay. Feel sorry for the kids' friends and families, but ultimately they got what they deserved. Racing on the north circular FFS.

*fap fap fap*

I kinda see both sides. Buying a 3.5L fat arsed car and expecting anything other than the 23MPG that Nissan state on their literature is a bit naive, but on the other hand if you've been getting good mileage from the car and that suddenly changes it's reasonable to ask why.

But we don't actually know yet if the fuel economy has dropped. The OP has said that he may have used the wrong converter, and until he does the test like I suggested then it may just be a case of the fuel sender reading incorrectly rather than the actual MPG dropping.

Wait, a Ford GT was butchered to make that?! Shame.

Different. Looks okay, nothing super special. What is it?

I would definitely wait until you can do it all in one to. In theory you could get away with changing the ARBs and not having an alignment done, but you might clout something and leave it needing doing anyway.

If you're fitting new ARBs, I'd fit new drop links. Sod's law says if you don't budget for then then they'll be seized to hell and need replacing anyway.

I think the 9x7 cars are supposed to tell you if you're low on oil and need to add some, but I'm not brave enough to run it low to find out

If there is, I can't see one. I suspect it's more to appear tech-savvy as well as to appease affluent owners who wouldn't dare sully their hands by opening the engine bay. Which is really sad, if I'm right.

Christmas is a wonderful time of the year, where we should all be grateful for the joys of life. As such, I refuse to spend it with anyone I think is a pillock. That includes some of my family.

ooooooooh don't get me started

Not needed. What is needed is to make sure the oil level is above the minimum mark: As long as that is achieved, then nothing else need be done.

I wouldn't bother with OEM, get the Powergrid or Whiteline ones.

Scratchy scratchy swirly swirly

Yeah, it's a crap idea. The dipstick is a perfectly acceptable and accurate measuring device (in anything other than a 350!), so why change it?

I didn't understand a word of that. Best thing to do is to run the car until the low fuel light comes on, then fill the tank. Reset the trip counter, then run the car until the light is on again. Fill the tank again, then make a note of the trip readout and how many litres you filled up with. Divide the litres by 4.54 and you have the amount in gallons, and you can then divide the miles by that number for a true readout of your mpg.