Ekona

You could run the entire engine on semi-synth if you wanted, it won't cause a single problem at all. I wouldn't do it long-term (10+ years) as it's simply not as effective as a decent fully synth, but for topping up or even over the course of a three year ownership, it won't cause a single problem at all. I wouldn't even break a sweat over it

You can never have too much headroom for fuelling, so assuming you're happy with the cost then I can't see any issues at all.

Running decats does not make a car illegal. It will not pass MOT, but that doesn't it make it illegal.

In theory, yes. A regular hard drive should be as fast as possible, because you want access to that data as quickly as possible to carry on with your work and don't mind sacrificing durability. NAS is a long-term storage solution, so really you want the opposite: A slow spin up speed to reduce risk of failure, and then an average seek time to reduce the moving bits moving too quickly. There's not much data out there yet on these kinds of drives as they're relatively new, however the warranty and quality of the WDRed drives convinced me that they're worth the selection.

If I'm reading that correctly it's also only a RAID1 solution, so you'll only get one drive worth of data in there (i.e. 2x 1TB drives only give 1TB worth of storage). Not a problem as such, but it can get awfully expensive as when you pass that 1TB of data you then need to go buy another two drives PLUS another NAS box. Much better than no backup at all though!

This thread is somewhat pointless if no-one is going to give actual reasons for their choices. Also, 'with supporting mods' is pretty obtuse: If you won't specify, then it's pretty much worthless. You might as well say that the best car is a 350Z with supporting mods. Also, without removing all the superfluous posts (and that includes this one), it becomes incredibly hard to scan (if it's not anyway) to get an idea of what people are using. It's not a terrible idea, but let down in execution and the fact that no-one bothers searching for things as a rule, and the thread title is hardly conducive to helping that. Yeah yeah, I know that's a really negative post and I'm sorry, but it's the truth.

I use the WD Red drives, good performance for what they are and hopefully the lifespan should prove itself over time. I use an old PC and run Unraid for my stuff, but that's a media server rather than just backup.

It could be an interesting season with some highlights (like this season has been), but it's no longer anything to do with racing. And that's a real shame.

Specific cinema room? This is the 350Z owners club, not the 599 owners club! I'm jesting, of course. It's a very good point, which is precisely why my current setup is excessive for the existing living room as it was bought with the future house move firmly in mind. Doesn't stop me cranking it when the neighbours are out though...

The police probably wouldn't pull you over for it, but if you were pulled it might be another item for them to take your name for. I believe it falls outside the Construction And Use regs.

More like.

^^^ That's what I was thinking. Unless you give it a good 20 min drive, you'll be draining the battery by starting it.

Shouldn't do. The AVR should be able to power it on and off via HDMI, but that may be model-dependant. That's how mine works and it's over three years old now.

Where the whoosh parrot??!!

Don't forget though that Admiral will only replace mods with stock items if you need to claim, so if you reverse into a wall and damage your £1K exhaust, you only get OEM back. Unless you've taken their optional cover, of course,

Not really, but it's all about control. HDMI is the standard now, and that can carry both audio and visual, so there's no need to use another lead here. If you run everything via the AVR, then if you change your screen output (i.e. buy a new telly) you're only switching one cable. There's no need to run the extra optical, the idea is to let the AVR do all the switching so the TV just goes on with the one input. Doing it the other way means you need a remote to change the TV output as well as a remote to change the AVR volume as well as one for the inputs. Going via the AVR means you can ditch the TV remote completely. Irrelevant if you have an AIO remote though, to be fair. I can see why the guy told you to do what he did as it's less work for you at the start, however it's not really best practice and the AVR install guide will tell you as much too.

Why do it that way? You should be running the inputs to the AVR (Virgin, PS3) then a single HDMI output to the TV.

FSM = factory service manual? Seriously, the interval for oil on those is 3k?! Jeez, that's crazy.

Why would anyone use the low setting? Even on high the temperature change barely registers. As said, they're probably the worst heated seats I've ever used (Merc ones are the best, the high setting is like having your posterior perched precariously 'pon the sun!). Leave 'em on off or high

But then you'd have an even bigger disparity between the richer and poorer teams. Imagine the big four (Fer, McL, RB and MB) lapping all the other cars by two or even three times per race. Would that be better for the sport? I'm not so sure. Personally I'd rather see Marussia and Caterham kicked out, as they have made precisely zero progression over the last few years in terms of fighting for points. Bin them, let someone else have a go (assuming there's another team with funds to try).

I got a bucket. I was genuinely pleased at this, I've needed a new one for ages!

That's okay if you're Ferrari and have access to your own track, but what about the FIs, the Saubers, the Marussias?

Happy celebration of a virgin pushing a magical baby out of her lady garden day!

You mean bi-wiring. Bi-amping means using two different amps, bi-wiring is using one amp but two cables

Mk3 ZZW30, I'm on my fourth now Never driven a mk2, although I've had some pax rides out in some tubbies that might not have been pushing mega power (300 tops I reckon) but they still really shifted.