-
Posts
30,948 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Ekona
-
None of those will work: A kettle will kill it in seconds. Really you either need that extension lead, or find a way of running a cable round their from your supply. Got any pics, or an aerial shot? Minus details giving away your exact address, of course!
-
A +1 for WiM too, very good chaps. Also, owning a Hunter machine means zero, squat, zip. A competant bloke with string can give better results than generic garage guy with a Hunter machine.
-
You didn't say they were for competition use I don't like them, as I'd rather have my vision on track and as long as you're bolted in securely then any FIA seat will do, but if you like them and they're comfy for you then go for it. I'd rate comfort as the most important thing, tbh. You seem to intimate that you'll be driving to events though, in which case my original comment about road use stands.
-
Proper rotary, then. You can get the Scholl polishes I mentioned from somewhere like CleanYourCar, as well as the Lake Country pads too. I tend to flit between the orange and red ones, depending on the paint (for swirl correction, the blue is usually too firm). You'd need to use the 17 first, and then the 30+ to remove holograms and swirl marks. HOWEVER That sounds very easy in practice, but there's a reason people do charge a whack for this kind of stuff It's easy to go wrong, to burn through the compound and wreck a panel, or to simply not touch the swirls and end up with holograms every where. Tbh if you just want to make it look pretty before an event then I'd be tempted to try a glaze, Poorboys do the Black Hole for dark cars and a lighter one too (the name escapes me now!), they're perfectly decent as a quick fix and will save you a day of improving swirls or three days if you want to remove them, and with no risk.
-
Proper rotary, or dual action? Quickest way to wreck paint is to attack it with a rotary with no idea of what you're doing. Not saying you don't as you've used it before, but you do need to be very careful. I'm personally using the Scholl range right now, with Lake Country pads for my correction work. Something like a 17 followed by a 30+ is giving me great results across multiple paint types.
-
Oh absolutely!
-
I love the contrast between the red ARB and the blue arms! Good choice, where did you get them from?
-
But yeah, if you can't judge whether the road you're on is either safe for the speed you want to do OR is likely to have police with a speed gun, then you need to work on judgement and observation before buying gadgets. That's not to say I don't use a GPS based device (iOS TomTom has them built in) when travelling places I'm unfamiliar with, but they come in most handy on motorway average speed sections where it's not always clear that you're in or out of a zone. I'll sit bang on the limit in a managed zone, but will set cruise for 75mph on the open motorway.
-
Me? Sarcastic? Never. The very thought of it!
-
It's what your eyes get used to, but as a general rule I'd always say that a quality basic dial is easier to read than a fancy one: They just don't look as good! I did mean those Defis above, and yeah as long as there's a clear distinction between colours that's easy to read then that's just as good in my book. So you can go back to agreeing with me now I once ran the hellishly expensive Spa ones that had two digital readouts per dial: They looked fabulous, but were completely useless when you got moving as the eye can't read numbers as quickly as it can tell where a needle is pointing. Expensive mistake, that one.
-
Mk1 eyeball /thread
-
This is also a case of "Do as I say, not as I do" here, as I have zero gauges in the MR2 despite it being a turbocharged monster!
-
I tend to agree, but you'll be able to see if it's making constant boost at the very least which can be just as helpful. That's the easiest one of the lot to run, too.
-
That's the second one of those someone has lost in the last few days.
-
Oil pressure, oil temp, and boost pressure are the ones you really want as gauges. You want them as simple and plain as possible: Defi ones look pretty, but are not particularly easy to glance over at and work out if there's anything wrong. The gauges shown in the R32 pic are perfect, as they're clean and clear. Plain background, plain font, big red needle. Things like AFR, EGT etc are nice to have, but really you just want them wired to a single red light that flashes if there is something wrong. In a perfect world of course, really no-one need bother.
-
Daft for road use, you massively restrict your vision at junctions. With any seat, try before you buy: They're definitely not all the same. DT is a great place to go for stuff like that, I did when choosing my seats.
-
Cost will depend on what needs adjusting, but lets assume everything. I would budget for £120, personally. Or £100 +VAT, if you prefer. Generic garages will probably be half that at least, but may not be able to give you the setup you want.
-
http://www.billgwynne.com/ I did a full experience day there in an Impreza. Utterly superb day, well run and managed, and with lots of seat time too.
-
This is why locking wheel nuts are generally a bad idea these days, unless you have £5k worth of wheel on. Even if you do, if someone really wants them...
-
That's incredibly short sighted. Letting people to go and join a terrorist organisation freely is only ever going to end in trouble for us. Even if they knew they couldn't return, they'd go anyway because they're loonies, that's the point of radicalisation.
-
It has everything to do with MI5. You don't really want mentals travelling abroad in the first place to learn how to be trained killers to pop back and slaughter a few Brits.
-
Understandable. Easier to blame everyone else rather than look at yourself.
-
Not the worst idea, tbh.
-
Let me guess, they're the cheapest? DPD FTW. You can track the couriers online, makes life so simple.
-
"Marussia: Like us 'cos we're crap!"