rtbiscuit

isn't the GTR 4 wheel drive anyway? should it not find thhis weather far easier than the Zed?

i think the point with DMF's is that they can vary from car to car with life expectancy, and as its such a big job to change the clutch it makes sense to do the fly at the same time. youyr DMF could last 10,000 it could last 30k. and with a single mass fly there is less to go wrong so it shouldn't need changing again. also with the new excedy clutch, if its fitted properly and you don't drive like a numpty; should last the life of your ownership easily. it will save you the £300-£400 of having the fly swapped out at a later date. if your clutch and gearbox has taken the shagging that you think it has, then all the parts linked with that area i'd want out at the same time and replace with fresh to gaurentee longevity and put the car back into good working order.

my grans brother lives over at pocklington, they used to farm over at scrayingham. (can never remember spellings )

the stuff that goes in your water bottles is part of the PIAA range and you can get it from envy. once my rainex runs out i will be upgrading to the PIAA windscreen claner, windscreen protector and washer bottle addative. i already use the PIAA wipers which are awesome. just need the rest to complete the set.

welcome to the club

i'm half northerner, my dads a yorkshire man, and his parents live up that way, used to spend my summers on their farm. mums an aussie, i have dual nationality thanks to her. and i was born in yeovil sommerset. moved all over the country, never settled that long in a place. i suppose it make sme a southerner.

i use a pioneer system that fits in the cubby and its far superior to anything i've yet to see in a zed. costs more, but definatly worth it.

forza has been really good, i am just getting back into it after getting bored of MW2

wookie has one for sale, for £65 check the for sales section

spoke to my folks earlier and they had 1 foot dropped last night and it was snowing then. they said the A64 was trecarous and people were abandoning their cars and police were advising against any kind of travelling unless absolutely necessary. if its clear on tuesday i'll try then, but i fear ti aint going ot happen.

its been called off now, looks like i'm not going. might see what its like on tuesday.

whats it like up there now, as i'm planning to attempt it tomorrow to malton. i reckon the main roads on the route up are fine its just gonna be what its like when i get up there.

i checked my wife this morning and i cant find it

no ones had a problrm with black rays as far as i'm aware. and if you want a photoshop doing, you'll need to post up a pic of your car for people to work their magic on. preferably at an angle that shows off the majority of the parts you want to see,

a few people have done black rays, buster posted a pic up earlier on another thread, but they are on an orange car. shire has done a carbon vinyl roof if that helps and he has a GM car. its a case of piecing all the bits togehter. photoshop might be your friend here. i think husky did it for me on my silver, if you ask him nicely he might post them up. might give you an idea. its on a silver and a bit crude, but it helped me. think he did several verisons with roof and wing mirrors etc. that reminds me wing mirrors are on my list of to do's

i've got the V2 nismo spoiler and i had the centre blade and end caps painted black, have door handles on standby ready to be painted and then swapped over. and will be getting the wheels refurbed in black next year. and i have no photos of any of it yet. the spoiler is the only bit i've done so far, but due to weather etc and only just getting onto holiday i haven't taken pics yet. next weeks job. the black works, but on my car it needs balancing out with other parts, but then thats in the long term plan. i also used BMW saphire black, as it was more metalic and a better pearlsant than the nissan colours, if it works with a gt spoiler i don't know, for me i don't think it does, but then its not the look i was going for. i think you'll find it will be a divided response. if you like it then go for it, but if your trying to persaude yourself with peoples opinions on here then it probably isn't the right route.

its not black, but a carbon wrap. As close as i could find. took the pic at modified live back in the autumn. hope it helps

North Yorkshire, mate. i'll keep an eye out for you, i'll be in malton on monday/tuesday

my honest opinion is thats a bit overkill, i got it off an american site that look to deal mainly with old retro muscle cars and pickups. me personally i probably wouldn't oil the cylinders, but i'd have someone pop round once a fortnight to turn the car over for a while to get it up to temp. i'd stick the battery on to a trickle charger. i'd probably leave it still connected to the car. stick her up on axle stands and do the whole wash and wax routine before hand, and a brief drive to dry her off before bed.

i have a single space garage, but if i stuck your car in it i can't get mine in

Taken from www.Torquecars.com Rust is your biggest enemy so you need to avoid damp - heated garage or put car inside a sealed cover. TorqueCars recommend that when you put a car into storage you first of all wash it thoroughly and ensure that all brake dust is removed from the wheels. Then you need to ensure the car is completely dry - a hot day is best. When the car is dry you need to apply a protective layer of wax which will help to keep out corrosion. When a car is standing you still have to worry about corrosion inside the engine. We recommend that you spray some oil into each of the cylinders. The easiest way to do this is by removing the spark plugs. To ensure the oil coats the cylinder walls you will need to crank the engine for a single revolution (short burst) with the plugs removed to prevent combustion. Doing this will protect the internal areas of the engine from corrosion. (Any fuel sprayed in will quickly evaporate away.) Lay a plastic sheet on the ground to help keep the damp from rising up into the car itself. If you can get a dehumidifyer installed that would be good as this will also help to keep the damp air away from the car. Don't let mice/rats nest in your exhaust - stuff some rags in the end. (Put a notice in the car reminding you to remove the rags). The same applies to the air intake in the engine. Small rodents love to find little tubes and pipes to nest in so don't take chances. After a while the brakes will bind on that is stick to the disks, so avoid leaving the handbrake engaged. Instead of the handbrake leave the car in gear and chock the wheels. If you are leaving the car for a long time it would usually be best to raise it up and leave it on axle stands. (Please note that axle stands are not always sturdy and you should always use caution around a car on axle stands.) This will reduce pressure and wear on the tyres and suspension. Ensure that you fully inflate the tyres and keep them topped up. Soft tyres will quickly start to deteriorate and they will always lose pressure over time so you will need to keep them topped up. Wiper blades can stick to the glass over time so put some rags underneath them to prevent this. Lubricate all hinges with white grease and this will help protect them from siezing up. Keep the battery charged and topped up. It is best to remove the battery from the car when you are storing it. Car alarms, electrical circuits and even the clock will eventually drain the battery and batteries last longer with a charge in them so avoid letting the battery go flat. Check antifreeze strength before winter. Even if the car is in a cosy garage you still risk freezing when the cold weather comes. DO NOT DRAIN THE CAR COOLANT. The moisture inside will mix with the air and rust will start to appear in the waterways. Regular maintainence regimen of a stored car. Rotate all of the wheels, especially if it is not on axle stands. This keeps the bearings from sticking as well as changing the pressure point on the tyre. Some recommend starting the car briefly if you are storing the car for longer periods of over 6 months to 12 months. Do not idle the engine and allow it to come up to temperature but rather hold the revs and allow the car to warm up quickly. Ideally the car should be driven for 15 miles every 60 days allowing the engine to get up to temperature. This is not always practical due to insurance and legal issues if the car has been registered out of use. Just starting the engine for short periods can cause major problems and is a great way to accelerate the wear and tear due to corrosion especially in the exhaust. Always allow the car to fully get up to temperature before shutting the engine off. Whilst you have the engine running you should also breifly run the airconditioning compressor/heater fan for a short while on both hot and cold settings. When you have finished running the engine you will need once more to redo the previous steps such as oil in the engine and reinsert the rodent protectors. Also the windows should be periodically wound up and down to keep them free running. This is especially important on cars with electric windows as a siezed window can burn out the motor. Turn the steering fully from lock to lock to prevent the steering rack/power steering pump from siezing up. This can be done with the car on axle stands. Hopefully your car survives its storage in perfect condition, sadly there are no guarantees here but at least you have taken every precaution. When you go to put it back on the road make sure it has been thoroughly serviced. You should also ensure that the car is safe to drive. Rubber suspension bushes, brakes and steering should all be carefully checked before using the car on the roads.

personally i think equally good sounds can be bought for less, but if money isn't an issue then its a good choice.

sorry to see you sell up. always welcome at the meets still

swap them for sessantas when they're next due for a change.

yes i saw it and was wondering if he was drunk, and yes it was very cringe TV, i didn't understand why he was on it agian?