Jords

These are the pads I've seen: https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/brakes/pads/6220-350z-de-project-mu-with-brembo-type-ns400-front-brake-pads-ps4f260.html They seem to be in the middle in terms of price at 120odd quid.. Was considering pairing with some stoptech discs or the centric dotted and grooved discs

Weighing up the prices and they seem to be around the same mark. Just over a hundred quid for the front pads seems to be the going rate for better quality parts?

I have heard the brand 'project Mu' mentioned a few times before. Does anyone have first had experience of the brand? I am scrolling through brake setups for the zed and the brand keeps coming up. Anyone have an opinion on how they compare to oem/hawks/ferodo etc..

Oh and for the one arch I might say £300 - £400. You could find cheaper but I would try visit and get a quote from 2 reputable bodyshops that are confident dealing with rust.

If it's bubbling up it is likely to mean rust forming behind the paint. I used a place called G and A Spence bodyshop in bradford. Good people and have done some lovely work for me and the people who referred me to them. I would expect (even insist on) the following: Strip paint of the arch around the affected area... cut out any rust.... Weld in new metal... zinc prime, waxoyl inside the arch to death and then repaint. Shouldn't be too costly if you have caught it early.

Anybody on here? Modified nicely.. I was parked 2 rows behind in mine

Scan through this guide in particular: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/106961-350z-headunit-replacement-guide-with-links-to-parts/ Sounds like you may have missed something with the power wire to the bose amps (blue and white)

There is a connection somewhere on the back of the head unit that has not been made. It is most likely something on the new wiring adaptor. Hard to say what but I remember fitting mine. No sound. But then as soon as I made the connection everything started playing. Any spare wires showing? The blue 'remote' wire from the head unit may need to be connected to a wire to the bose amps?

Oh if you've had a play with one and it seems to be all there then good stuff. Kenwood as a general rule aren't bad stuff at all. Honestly though, be warned about just plugging the bose amps into the new stereos pre outs on the back. It drops the signal to the bose amps from 12v to 3v or so and sounds crap and messes up the volume (very quiet). I wish I did the wiring mod, now I just can't be bothered sorting it

I don't have one, but here's an honest opinion... Looks nice, but I can't see anything regarding the sound quality, equaliser settings, time correction etc etc... In short, looks like a head unit aimed at people who want the link to their phone to be easy. Sound quality is lower down the list. Should still be good though! Also before swapping the bose deck out research 'busters mod', as using the wiring adapter for the bose will drop the signal going to the amps from 12v to a lower voltage (whatever volts the head units pre outs are)

Try the insurance brokers I've always used. They are called BRENTACRE and specialise in modified policies.

Meh....

Glad I could be of some help.. I would expect some rust under most older zeds some of them are 14 years old now. Get a wire wheel and some good underseal and get to work haha. Alternatively get it booked in somewhere to have them do it. I discussed having mine undersealed in the future when I was at atkins nissan specialists a month or 2 ago. They are far from a side street garage but said a few hundred quid would get it really well cleaned up and then properly undersealed. Just remember that once it's been done properly it's common practice to check it every year but it would be well worth it. Any parts that can be removed and cleaned up I would do yourself and spray with some black 'stone chip' paint firstly

There's a make called ultra racing that a lot of people use. They do replacement braces fior the w brace, middle small brace and large front brace. I've looked at the pictures, sure there is some rust but it's far from a rot box. Looking at them I'd say it needs a proper undersealing job because it's never had one. I don't see anything terminal under there. Maybe the invoices you have seen is for cavity waxoyl injection which is where they spray it into the inner arches etc.. Either way don't be too disheartened by the situation a couple hundred quid should see you right.

The companies have a lot of tricks up their sleeves to get away with murder when selling new houses: Undersized furniture in the show house Factory rejected bathroom suites in bulk (misshapen toilets due to bad casts) Sub standard pipework A lot are also pushing 'tape and fill' all ceilings and walls. Meaning you don't have an inch of plaster in the house. Not a big issue on commercial builds but a bit naff on a newly built house. Garages undersized so can't fit a car in them. Passageways between houses getting smaller and smaller - good luck thinking of a conservatory or extension in future if that's the case. And finally... a new built 'town house', is basically a terraced house but called a different name. And all of the above come from myself owning a property renovation company, and my older brother buying a 280k new built detached house and me having to sort the bugger out when the company messed him around about the countless issues he had.

I wouldn't get too hung up on the mileage. A Car with 80k and looked after well will be twice as good/reliable as a car with 40k that hasn't been.

as said above, all 3 variants are good cars. Original DE is bulletproof, as are the other models. Plus cheaper tax. The revup's can be known to burn oil but not all of them, lots of other cars are known to use a little oil. You just check and top up if necessary every once in a while. They have a few more bhp, but it's been said that they trade torque for bhp so the gains are not massive. The HR is the fastest and newest. They have a few different interior and changes like the bulging bonnet which is nice, and 313bhp and a higher redline. But they'll run you 500quid a year to tax (as will any model registered after March 06). Why not have a look on the zeds for sale section, there's a lovely red import with stupidly low miles. Mines on there too.. Either way good luck!

Shhh.. Don't complain it looks good for anyone interested. Haha. Honestly looks a brilliant car and at a very very good price. You won't be waiting long,

Sorry to thread crash, but that price is ridiculously cheap! Granted imports can be cheaper, but this mileage is next to impossible to find on a car of this age. Good luck with the sale!

Try and find a car restoration Specialist, maybe a classic car place that would be willing to take it on. Places like them are used to a bit of rust and aren't scared of it. There's a few places over your way. Good luck!

It does sound like it if it's rapidly gone like that over a few months. The zeds are getting to be well known for rusty arches. It's where the inner and outer arches meet as they are spot welded so they start to develop rust easily. When I viewed a few they all had something on the rear arches, some worse than others. It can get worse quickly, especially in winter so I would make a call on it sooner rather than later. Plus the market for 2 seater sports cars is at its best coming into summer if you decided to sell. Im not sure but I would guess the later HR models will eventually see rust in the same places.

Personally I would be living with it and sell the car on when ready, or get hold of a new arch (possibly a perfect second hand arch to cut patches from. I'd say it's around a 1200 quid job including a new arch Or 5-600 quid job of a bodyshop cuts out the rust (including a donor arch or welding in new metal). I had mine done almost immediately after buying it, had the arches fully stripped back, zinc primed and cavity waxoyl injected to stop any rust from starting. 2 years later, all the bad weather and salt from 2 winters and it's been 100percent perfect.

Good lord she's an ugly bugger

I can't remember the prices exactly, but the wings from nissan themselves were coming in at between 5-600 per side. They do not do returns on them and I'm damn sure you wouldn't get any warranty (that they wouldn't just get out of). Carbon fibre would be great, but it is expensive. It's a hard place to be in for you, may I ask how bad is the rust that your battling with? Only other alternative is to go wide arch, as you have to cut the old arch lip off mostly. However it doesn't remedy any rust between the wing and rear bumper..

Oh and also there would be some careful work sealing around the petrol flap to make sure it looks gold after the old has been cut off.