Olly350z

Sell me the rear bumper!! I even have a nice OEM replacement you can have!! And I'm local too 😬😬

So nothing too much to report, had a few nigglying issues with the Z which were a PITA to resolve due to timing of Xmas. First up the CSC decided to die while fitting a Hel braided line, so down the garage for that. Big shout out for Chris at Tarmac Sportz for the uprated cylinder and the quick dispatch and a quick picture on the home drive! The car then started to develop feedback through the brake pedal, which Ekona diagnosed correctly as pad transference. So a good cleanup and brake session they seem to be better, cheers dude! Definitely a contaminated disk there And now finally tucked away for the remainder of winter and while I get the parts together for the remap

Clever man. Always wanted one on my GT DE, wouldnt you have to swap keys though?

Sarcasm overload. Lol

Just for the Z, again it made no odds as I have another vehicle under my own policy and a third which I can drive 3rd party if needs be, same for them. Alot of companies have raised the Zs insurance, when going through my list I rang Chris Knott insurance and they wouldn't entertain anyone under 28!

Mine doesnt. And I dont think they do as standard

As I said, mine was around £165 cheaper without parents on, neither have any claims or convictions and both have maximum NCB and driving experience. Made no odds though as both are able to drive it 3rd party in the event of an emergency! Results will vary! Insurance is always a gamble. Alot of insurance companies I spoke did say that the Z had become harder to insure

Just putting this out there, Jerrick may or may not remember me from the days of civiclife.net but I ran a set of his zeta Rs on my EK4 for over 4 years with no problems. Prior to installation they were greased an regularly got a jetwashing and WD40. That civic did well over 40K miles on them and when they eventually came off they looked as good as the day they were fitted. And are still on the road now a year later on a tracked civic Cheaper yes, low quality? I disagree. You wont find many traders who'll spend over an hour on the phone out of their unpaid time answering all of your stupid questions either (my own stupid questions before purchase, before anyone takes offence) And actually due to my own ignornace, seeing Jerrick trading here and selling coilovers for Zs, may well be getting a phone call in the not too distant future from me

Smashing Battlefield lately, by far the best game to date on the PS4. When the crews online we very rarely do badly. Now level 69 with all classes level 10 and higher Throughly enjoyed mafia 3 but like others have said over far too quickly and lots of missed opportunities Now fallout 4 with the release of user based mods. Wow. I recommend for anyone who hasn't played the fallout range give them ago. I hadnt until its release last year and Ive not looked back

Timing chain didnt snap per say however it would appear the tensioner isnt happy with a distinct rattle on cold start ups if its sat for a couple days. Its not unknown for them to go with time however despite being an 03 its only done 74K...

I actually found that having parents on my insurance made it more expensive, from the POV of the insurance company they said you know the car, they dont so they're more of a risk. Adding parents doesnt always make it cheaper

I have a nismo V2 bumper in gun metal that Im looking to sell... Could be just the cure to help you get over your sudden case of @*!# to the brain 😉 We've all done it boss, dont worry!

What you're sayibg is true but you have to remember that the OEM oil pressure sender unit and gauges on these cars are garbage and known to give different readings, its only when you connect it to a independent pressure tester you get a gospel figure. They create more scare mongering then good Im interested in what you've said though, I dont think Ive ever it accurately at 2000RPM giving a solid 60psi reading. I only achieve that if im closer to 70mph cruising in 6th, but that makes me just over 2500RPM

Experienced this today and it makes me very moody... not giving way when there is clearly an obstruction on there side!

Because the number of 22 year olds who have crashed a 370z is low combined with probably a good postcode aswel as your NCB I struggled to insure mine this year, despite being 25 and ownin it for over a year. Was unexpected thats for sure. Got it down to £450 modifications declared though so im happy

Gallery gaskets seem to be a common issue on the HR engines, which coinside with low oil pressure and oil usage. Another cost to factor in with that mileage is the timing chain and tensioner could well suddenly let go. I fell fowl of this and so far quotes are around £1500... Definitely bullet proof engines, but not an engine you can just forget imo. As youve owned a Honda (Ex B18EK owner here) be ready to be checking oil levels regularly if you're paranoid like me

Nah because it was still doing it in the beginning! Was only after a record breaking stop from 100MPH that its started behaving itself! Nice try DaveyWavey "DEEZ NUTZ"

Think I owe you a beer Ekona, took them all apart today and cleaned everything, sanded the padds slightly and cleaned the disks then took it for another heavy braking session as it was dry, really dod some harsh stops and it seems to have cured it! Touch wood

Ive tried doing tbe braking procedures you mentioned tonight Ekona, doesnt seem to have made a difference. Although its pretty cold tonight so didnt go too mad. Will pull them apart tomorrow armed with a wire wheel brush for the hubs and brake cleaner tomorrow. Sigh

Just an FYI guys, heavily dyslexic person here! Doh on the topic title. My bad, mybe ill tlk lyke dis yh Thanks to those for the sensible replies. If anyone else has any other ideas id appreciate to hear them, just if the grammar teachers could pipe down. Whats padd transference?

Hey Boys and Girls, Hope everyone has had a good Christmas so far! I swear my Z is one of the most temperamental cars on the planet! As some will know I had issues last month with the Clutch slave cylinder which decided to give up, luckily saved by Chris @ Tarmac Sportz. I don't think the two are linked but it is odd how the two have coincided. Its possible its been caused by the car sitting for a nearly a month? So basically I've had the car back on the road just over a week now, and everything seemed great. I took it for a run the day I got it back as the disks were looking a bit crusty on the surfaces but nothing a few normal braking stops would sort. But the last couple of days I've noticed what I can only assume is a warped disk. It happens at low speeds when the pedal is applied lightly, doesn't happen under harder braking from speed. You can easily hear a grinding "Donk" Donk" from inside the cabin and outside, and more importantly you can actually feel a "kickback" through the pedal. It feels like the pedal is fighting back. Braking isn't affected at all it just does not feel right for obvious reasons. The brakes themselves are MTEC drilled and grooved with HELL braided lines Another thing to note is that at slow speeds (less than 10MPH, turning speed basically), I get an audible "Donk" Donk" which is rhythmic (gets quicker or slower) but ONLY when turning left... Id thought this was driveshaft click but its bloody loud for that So to summarise Happens at low speeds, with light pedal pressure. Hard braking is fine until you slow down Easily hear and feel a "Donk" Donk" metally sound, and feel through the pedal Brakes are newish, less than a year old and done less than 10K miles Any ideas guys?

So the update to this is that the clutch slave cylinder had completely shat its pants :| For whatever reason it went in semi working and came put with a new one. Thats why it wouldn't bleed. Interestingly enough though, it does feel much much better. No where near as jerky with this deadzone alot of Z owners report. Always found the clutch was either on or off and this has cured it, I'd imagine the braided line helps too Rather then start another topic, how have people adjusted there clutch pedals though? The biting point is very high causing some over revving on my part. Which way do I turn the rod to lower it slightly?

Tell me about it. :|

I cant say for definite as I dont understand car sound systems enough (this is actually my first car with a sub.. lol) but I'd like to say so Mine used to make a loud pop everytime the sub would cut out, but replacing the AMP was an educated guess that could've backfired. Forgive me for saying but if your AMP has been fiddled with already, its more then likly a recurring issue. Id replace the AMP

Almost 99% sure its the amp. Had a similar issue where the sub wluld cut in and out, sometimes if left it would return sometimes a good thump would get it to return. Not that I understand its something to do with the relay inside the amp Bought a second hand amp of Bob Ellis and its cured the issue and works a treat