G1en

Excuse the typos, on mobile

I have had this done. Adjustable camber arms are a doddle. They just replace the standard arm but have an adjustable thread and nuts to lengthen/shorten the arm to increase or decrease the camber. The adjustable toe bolts replace the standard toe bolts but the hole they fit into needs ro be elongated to allow the extra adjustment of the new bolts. This requires shaving/grinding/filing the alloy in an area with not great accesabillity. It can be done at home but allow more time than you think. I had them fitted at same place that did the slignment/geo setup for obvious reasons and the guy used his air tool (dremel type machine) and went through about 6/7 bits making the holes bigger and took him about an hour just for that. For reference i got the eibach set as all my other suspension stuff is eibach, cost is in region of £150-£200 for the camber arms and toe bolts. You can see in pic below. The camber arms are centre right (black) and the toe bolts top left (shiny)

Yep, same here, would love a proper garage, But tell me keyser, has the biggest spanner ever been used?

Weasley attempt

Probably because back in the day they did a similar job and needed to buy the same tool. Then its been sat there for 20 years rusting away until their son gives them a call one day and pops over to rumage through tbe box/chest and hey presto, it gets a second use and sees the light of day for a second brief time before returning back to the dark oblivion of rusty things always willing and waiting patiently for the call to arms.

Thats what i need, will get one ordered. Thanks for that. Do you know if they work on most cars ie universal or do you need a specific type per make/country/age of car I have an oldish BMW that has a load of lights on the dash. Cougar store read it as a faulty speed sensor on rear left wheel but now got a couple of more warning lights.

Read my door handle thread. Took me a week to sort out, took me 2 weeks to fit an oil cooler, 3 weeks to sort faulty washer pumps, there are threads on those somewhere as well. Its all part of the fun (and frustration) I love learning to do mechanics myself but every time i start with zero preparation like an idiot. Back to yours above, is there no friends/family that have any tools? If i need anything i can usualy rely on my dad to have it in his antiques roadshow toolbox

Yes i cleaned the pedal one as well. Just intrigued to know what the fault code is? by all accounts you cant have 11 blinks but that's definitely what i get each time for the second number. Will try and go for a drive midweek and see if it comes back on.

Poor lit pic as car in the garage but you get the gist. Handles match ssr wheels much better now so dont stick out as much. Wheels are phantom silver, handles are bmw space grey:

Found the grey one above pedal. Is this the throttle body sensor in centre of pic below i have disconnected. If so i have used compressed air to blast them, dont know if it will do anything but worth a go. Took one of my knuckles off in the process, as per usual with the 350 engine bay.

Where is the sensor located?

No. But it has been up-reved if that makes any difference

Just got the handles finished and refitted today. Slightly darker tone so dont stand out as much as the oem silver. Will get a pic up next time i wash the zed. But on the issue of the bolt that dropped down inside the door, dont do it people. I got the door card off but the bolt was inside the metal door skin. Had to take the speaker out to get my arm in but bolt was opposite end so attached a magnetic screwdriver to a piece of metal which was long enough to reach and retrieve. Suprised with the weight of a door card, must be a few kilos, has anyone gutted the inside of their zed of all trim and weighed it all to see what kind of saving there is?

Update. Still EML coming on after 5/10 minutes driving. Same sequence of flashes as before: 2,11,10,3 Does anybody have a clue what it relates to? Car drives fine but its starting to annoy me. Will a reader give more specific diagnosis of issue and if so can anyone provide a link to right one. Thanks people

As above zmanalex will have the bits although if you wait a few days they will prob return the stereo as they are all coded to the car and rubbish anyway. Why someone would steal one is beyond me.

I have had the whiteline kit on for 2 months, seems fine to me, fitted at cougarstore and given some abuse round the ring. Dont know what the longevity is like but its a good upgrade.

Haven't any of you read the cards in the back of your seats that tell you what to do in an emergency? When the captain comes on the radio you brace for impact and grab an oxygen mask. Oh no wait, getting mixed up with my boeing 737, sorry There are as usual lots of conflicting advise on internet forums. Some say road cars and race cars are designed and built seperate and should be kept like that from safety viewpoint. Ie if you are thinking about roll cage, bucket seats, harness, helmets, etc either do everything or nothing. Other sites say some are ok, others not. There are valid points from all ends. I think ultimately it is the individuals decision to weigh up everything and make their own informed decision.

I thought a year or 2 back the government changed the rules so men and women had to be charged the same. The table above paints a different picture.

I did go through the boot. Not been in those positions since a game of twister on boxing day 10 years ago. Still got it though.

Just read can of primer and it says suitable for plastic and metal. Doh... Zero preperation, max headache is how i roll

1- I only have grey plastic primer in the garage, noticed the door handles are metal, will it be ok if i lightly sand them and use this before main coat? Or do i need a metal primer? 2- one of the bolts holding the handle on has fallen down i side the door, is the only way to retrieve this taking the door card off? Is it straight forward? 3- Now both doors are closed and handles off how do i get into car, through the boot? Or is there a simpler way? 4- I am a idiot and realy need to think things through before starting. HELP

Just found a youtube video from the Saturday of me in the zed with what might possibly have been my first ever lap of the ring. Skip to 8:18 behind a merc and 2 beamers all black as well. Its on the approach to the carosel. Just putting it in my build thread for easy finding. I did spot a few other zeds whilst there although only one uk plate. A white 350.

Only mentioned fuel as i was running on dregs so dont know if that would have triggered anything? Is the throttle position sensor behind the pedal? I may have knocked it when swapping over to the new 380rs pedal?

Just done Nurburgring trip where the car was faultless, got back to uk and needed fuel so stopped at BP as it was first one and i was on fumes. Filled up with 97ron ultimate and start car and eml comes on. Dont know if this is coincidence or not as i have always used shell V power and its just been mapped on that. Anywat got home, did the pedal dance and the blinks were as follows 2, 11, 10, 3 I thought thet only went upto 10 which was zero but checked it several times and its def 11 for second set. I did a reset and light has gone off now so hopefully just a one off but can anyone tell me what the code relates to? I do have hi flow cats but its been up-reved so i thought that eliminates any warnings for those if thats what it is. Thanks guys,

A leader will jump off a cliff and others will follow A manager will tell YOU to jump off then sit and watch There job done, now spend the other 19.5 minutes having a brew and talking about stuff in the real world.