G1en

Definitely interested in this but will have to wait till end of month to book. How much extra is it for nice weather in December though?

Buy a crappy old motorbike of his own, doesn't even have to be a runner and leave that there as and when required.

Lots of traders on here will have new oem or aftermarket options. Tarmac sports, cougar store, clark motorsport, torqen etc.. If you are planning on lowering in the future you may as well get adjustable arms, if not then standard is fine. Zmanalex will prob have new or used available so plenty of options.

That to me is the camber arm. I have eibach adj arms and they are straight although the oem ones and many others do have a slight bend in as the guys say. If it is severly bent your camber and toe may well be way out as well. Just compare it to the other side.

My last diff before i had it replaced had a couple of the fins broke which may have been a result of someone doing this, im not sure, but the main diff housing behind is smooth so can you just reach the trolley a little further underneath?

Just read the last line with an open mind, it leaves things open to much interpretation. The posts above are just trying to keep you and the garage out of trouble, not an attack. Hope this helps fella.

Full set of Leds installed, see my build thread for full details, you can tell difference in daylight so will look realy great at night.

Look who its sent from as well, and your known as Mr Value Customer! They must make many many ugandan dollers out of you. From Natwest but logo as Halifax. Whats scary is people DO Actually fall for these and respond.

Update 11/08/17 part 2 whilst the car had all the bits off and it was such a faff removing everything I thought I would help bring the zed into 2017 with the help of some LEDs. With it being a HR it already has the led rear brake cluster and xenon headlights so the rest of the bulbs were letting it down. This is what i purchased online for £70 after checking the definative bulb list on here and double checking the actual fitments I can confirm these are all correct to replace the rear indicators, (amber x2) rear fog and rear reverse light (white) rear number plate (white x2) and side indicators (amber x2) Now in my usual fashion, I bought these and fitted them only to find out that my indicators now blink at 300 times a second. Hyperflash I believe is the common term. This for all you other novices is due to the leds drawing less power and having less resistance than standard bulbs. The car thinks a bulb is blown so flashes fast as a warning sign. It might also be because the resistance is less resulting in a faster flash. I lost interest reading online. Anyway the solution is either to replace the flasher control module (easier but not possible on a zed as it doesnt have one) or wire in resistors to the circuit. So after more searching i found that people use 50w resistors at anywhere from 4ohms to 8ohms. So I purchased some at 6ohms from Amazon, only £8 for two. You need one per indicator. You dont actually need any for the number plates, reverse light or fog light as the are constant on or off. The resistors come with wire attached and splices to cut into existing wires but as i already had a solder gun and solder wire i wanted a more permanent fix. I also read that some resistors burn out over time so people put connectors onto them so its a quick change over if they do. I decided to do this and took a trip down to maplin to buy 2 male connector blocks, 2 female and a metre of each red and black 1mm wire. I stripped the cable on the existing indicator wires and cut approx 400mm of wire i had bought then soldered together, wrapped in electricsl tape and put the connector block at the other end of the 2 wires which uses a crimp type thing to hold the wire, pic below You have to mount the resistors to metal as apparently they can get very hot and melt plastic so i found a perfect spot on either side of the car shell behind the bumper, connected the female connector block to the 2 wires and secured with a 18-25mm jubilee clip. I added a thin layer of foam behind the resistor just to cushion everything. Think it looks rather neat. You can then connect the male and female connectors together when you re-install the rear bumper and there is plenty of slack on the wires. Pic below. Just to note: it does not matter which wire from the light you connect to which wire from the resistor, and people also said that leds only work one way round in the fitting, I had all mine work 1st time round then took them all out, fitted resistors and they all worked second time so dont think it makes any difference. and finally tested all ok. This shows the indicator in bright daylight which was still impressive so should look awesome at night. The other leds as I mentioned before just swap straight over. The side indicators housing needs to be released from inside the arch so needs the front liner off. All in all very impressed and indicators now flash as normal so can confirm the resistors are correct. Anyone wanting to do this as i have will need: Leds as 1st pic (approx £70) online/ebay 1mtr red 1mm wire, 1mtr black 1mm wire, 2no female plastic connector blocks, 2no male plastic connector blocks (approx £15) Maplin 2no 50w 6ohm resistors with splices £8 Amazon 2no 18-25mm jubilee clips £3 Halfords optional: solder gun and solder, backing foam, electrical tape.

Its the bottom one in the pic Stu. I have put the smaller one in the pic to avoid confusion. They smaller ones are used all over the car to hold various trims and pieces in place. The larger ones i need are not so common and as i said its what holds the top of the front bumper to the car.

Update 11/08/17 had the last 2 weeks off on paternity after birth of baby Mason so i killed the time between nappy changes and being sick on to rust proof the car. Word of caution for anyone wanting to do this. It took me best part of 3 full days to do everything mentioned below. So to start i purchased the following kit from bilt hamber at £60 and the tin of por-15 at a whopping £35 but it gets rave reviews. onto stripping the car down. I removed the front bumper, zspeed undertray, plastic cover underneath front subframe, arch liners, rear lights and rear bumper and side skirts. I didnt realy know the procedure but if you just keep undoing bolts and pulling out clips eventually you get there. I did manage to break 3 of the side skirt fixings but luckily theres enough left to suffice. I noticed a few little marks/spots of rust around the car, nothing too serious, mainly where parts had rubbed and worn through the paint. An example below you can see where the rear light sits there is a 3/4 inch line of rust. All these bits i sanded and touched up with primer and kuro black paint. Now my cars ibisu black but Halfords didnt have that so as all these bits are out of sight it doesnt realy matter. Then it was onto using the por-15 rust prevention/ rust eating/ rust buster expensive black paint. I wire brushed the underside of the car on the parts that were rusty. Realy it was only the front and rear cross member / subframe parts. Not sure what the correct name is but it definitely looks like either a previous owner had done some undersealing or it is very well protected from factory. Whats that i hear you cry, the W brace! That must be rusty, well yes and no, it was but as you may have read from earlier in the build thread, i had already painted that with hammerite. Didnt stop me putting a coat of this por on though for good measure. You can see from below the por dries a satin/glossy black. It was a good job i got underneath the car as one of the connections on the oil cooler hose had worked loose and oil was weeping out so that was tightened up as well. I then used the por-15 stuff on the arch areas where there were signs of rust. Mainly around the spot welds. I even re-glued the vents behind the rear bumper. Ocd was kicking in and you can now see why it took so long. It was then time for the dynax stuff. Now in the kit you get 4 cans. 2 of S50, and 1 each of UB and UC. Now what the F is all that about i hear you cry. Well I said the same thing so I had to do the one thing all men hate and detest. Yep I had to read the instructions. After breaking into a cold sweat I gathered the info that; S50 is for cavitys and areas away from impact, UB is for underbody and high impact areas, UC is similar to UB but dries clear so is better for seen parts where you wouldnt want a brown/black coating. So off i went. The S50 was squirted into the arch crevices and anywhere there was a hole underneath the car (insert rude joke) The UB was then sprayed on the underside where i thought it needed it. Like I mentioned before, it was pretty good anyway and i could not see a lot of the steel as it was already coated in something but the subframe got a blast as did the W brace for good measure, that W brace must be rot proof for at least 50 years now with the amount of stuff I've put on it. Then i used the UC for the wheel wells, underneath the skirts, and rear shell. The first pic shows it wet and it has a glossy almost laquer appearence but it does dry almost perfectly clear as you can see from the other pics. Sideskirts, very good condition anyway, bits of rust starting at rear where they stop for rear wheel. and rear of car behind bumper, again in very good nick. Then it was onto putting everything back together and finding out either how many screws and clips i had lost or how many i had left at the end that i couldn't find a home for. The job, although taking a while had been going well upto now, only snapping 3 clips but the eagle eyed among you will spot the damage in the pic above but below is a close up. I left the rear bumper unattended, went inside and when i came out the wind had caught it and blown it onto the painted side against tbe driveway resulting in this: 1week before the JPS show in coventry so i will get the DA machine out on max setting but it will need a respray at some point. I may have a car on show where the underside looks better than the top! moving on, even though you never see the inside of the skirts I thought while they're off I would give them a clean and boy did they need cleaning. Then before the arch liners went back on, I coated them with some G-technic tyre and trim stuff which brought them back upto almost new. and back in the wheel arch and finally all the bolts coated in copper grease and everything bolted back together. I have ended up 2 clips short that tie the top of the front bumper to the car. Think they are a 10mm push clip. There are normally 6 required and i have 4 so if anyone has a couple lying around I will have them off you. So that about sums it up. A very lengthy but rewarding job. £105 for materials that could in theory save thousands if you keep the car long enough but i reckon it would easily bring its money back come sale time if you can prove the works been done and the cars been looked after and cared for.

Needs a stubby.... 8 more posts until i qualify for a car sticker, yeah

Thats ok for me, I will meet up at Holiday Inn

Even if it were faded, every day with a machine polisher since 1998 will make it a nice, shiny red again. fixed that sentance.

There is no way that nova has not been photoshopped. That vauxhall red paint should have faded to a lovely shade of pink back in the 90s. For 16k i just cannot see anyone buying it, get real.

Again, another assumption everyone is making is current cost of electric versus petrol. But the retail cost is not the true cost. The vat on household electric is 5% if i read my quarterly statement correct. The vat on fuel will be 20% and then the Fuel duty of 58p per ltr (equates to over 50% currently.) What i am getting at is the disparity between the nett cost and consumer cost. If everyone went electric tomorrow whats to say the goverment wont up the vat on electric or put a duty on each kw used to claw back the millions they are gonna lose from no petrol/deisel sales. Its like every reply i watch in politics. Someone promises something and someone else replies with, "where is the money coming from?" Its got to come from somewhere. Anyway, rant over. The main point was petrol would not be expensive if it wasnt for those pesky kids (i mean government)

So having just done the Performance driver training with C.A.T I can highly recommend it to anyone wanting to learn more about their car, their driving and how to get more out of both. If you read the dedicated posts you will get a real flavour for whats involved but needless to say, a great day all round and it really did hit it home to me just what a great capable car the 350 is. So capable I had Paul who put up with me all day constantly telling me to slow down and learn the techniques and processes involved rather than gung ho-ing it at every chance. sorry Paul. I did make it upto him by winning the end-of-day shootout dispite leaving half of my rear tyres at the start line. Pics below of the great set of forum guys who were on the day with our cars. In order to ensure a Zed won the day we made the R32 tow the trailer around Other bits I have done recently include a rear wiper delete, sprayed the rear strut brace cover (again) in red, and swapped the crappy rusty exhaust clamps for nice high grade st/steel jobbies, look much better. The dreaded EML light has come on yet again so really need to get to bottom of that although car starts & drives perfect. Someone on forum mentioned the throttle controller might be the issue, I cleaned it last time and the light has stayed off for a month so may do it again but clean the contacts as well and reset it again. Also have a sidelight out so purchased some xenon style osram side bulbs, need to fit those and may, if I get time during my paternity leave (may be wishful thinking) get the car up on the axel stands and give the girl some form of underbody paint/rustproofer/sealer/wax etc. Also, due to the noise of the cobra, and other mods, its not really a GT car anymore so seriously thinking about stripping the interior out and losing some more weight. It would just ruin the overall OEM+ look of the car, but I suppose it can always go back in, in the future.

It seems to have joined me automatically as i was in last year. Can you confirm Stu.

Thats exactly what mine does, I would say its normal. Obviously the revs settle much sooner / instantly from a warm start.

Can anyone post up the link to the video of the "brake now" senario. I cant find it. Purely for educational reasons obviously.

Well, i'm sure I speak for everyone when I say what a great day and a big thank you to Colin and the team. 2 pictures below from the end of the day of the cars and our group. Well done to mouthwash for winning driver of the day and getting to like his R32 a little more. Somehow I managed to win the gymkhana shootout although I may have lost a few thousand miles off my rear tyres

Nice idea Mik. Should hopefully spot you around soon. I saw a silver 05 the other day very close to me as well. To the moderators: could the members profiles be tweaked so we can add in Car details, just something simple like for mine: 350HR Black 08 It would help the spotted section as well if members could click on the map and see who was close and what car it was.

Just from the usual e of bay. Search for suprapro clamp and its the pack of 4 at 63-68mm

When i said gone, i meant i had already removed it, its on a shelf. Just contemplating stripping out the interior plastics/carpet etc but then you go from OEM+ look to stripped out racecar look. Not sure i am ready for that yet but would like to know the rough weight saving you would see.

Yeah, the boot weight had already gone, the spare wheel you can see in the corner of the garage, thats gone. People say dont lose weight from rear end as its needed for traction but i have a mechanical LSD and wide tyres so never had an issue.