G1en

I sell Carchem spray wax. Can be used wet or dry and sounds like the products you used to buy. Only £5.99 at present. I also sell the Gtechniq C5 ceramic wheel coating and have used this like many others with grest results. Also just taken in the carchem wheel armour if you want an easier and quicker product. Check them out on the website, cheers

If you mean the privacy thing, i have one available, check my for sale thread.

Welcome along

Welcome Matt definately buy from a trader on here. Lots of advice and great service available.

Thanks @ATTAK Z Brad at Bram did explain to me about the minutes so -1.30 is in fact -1.5deg as a decimal (30 being half of 60 minutes) Its still all just numbers until you feel the car on track, what I will say is it much less tail happy than before and more prone to understeer. This is great for me at present as I can keep pushing the car and tyres to the edge of traction and when it starts to slide just let off where as before the front really gripped with the back end all over the place wanting to swap ends. It prob wont be the fastest setup and I will probably change it again in the future but that's the good thing about having adjustable parts now and really feeling what the car does, I can get to understand what each change may do and test it out.

Time for another update, Sunday 3rd June saw my first competitive attempt at Harewood Hillclimb and glad to say man and machine are back in one piece which unfortunately was not the case for the guy next to me in the paddock and his Fiesta ST. So following on from previously, I entered the March practice day at Harewood. It was 1 degree celcious, damp track to start with and I was sat at the startline with road tyres, although MPSS which I thought would suffice, it soon became apparent that a cold day with cold tyres and 300+ HP was not a good mix to start racing. At the first corner I was on the grass both sides before the 80/20 rule saved me from binning it. that's 80% luck, 20% skill for anyone wondering. As the day went on I think we got 6 runs in with me only posting 2 times of note, both in the 73's The rest were spent 360ing out of corners as the grip levels were way less than I was expecting, the banning of any tyre warming stops you from getting any sort of heat into the tyres. So I came away having enjoyed myself but also mighty frustrated as the money that had been spent on the car had seemingly vanished into smoke and rendered useless if you have little grip. New tyres had to be sought out and put on before a competitive round as my competitive streak and ego (and possibly the car) would not survive another shot at the hill in current trim. Picture below of my Zed next to fellow Zed owner @Kieran O'Quick at practice day in March So onto google I went and also asked the advice of our great forum what semi-slick tyre I should put on and like you would expect there are a multitude of views and opinions so finding no definitive answer I opted for a set of these from Demon Tweeks: Nankang AR-1 Relatively cheap compared to some of the other well known tyres, new to the market and aimed at maximum dry performance, don't even start the car in the wet type of tyre. They certainly look the dogs danglies IMO seemed much lighter in weight than the MPSS I took off (the smaller sidewall and tread depth may account for some of that) so a possible advantage there. I then did some Man Maths and worked out that I still had no camber adjustment on the from as I was still on stock arms so @ZMANALEX helped me out with some used Eibach adjustable arms. I now should be sponsored by Eibach I have so much of their stuff on the car. And with the arms and new tyres, I took another little trip to Bram Racing (local to me) to get a full Geo setup done again the week before Japfest. (I was on the reserve list for the first Harewood event as well the following week) The car had always felt great on turn in but very tail happy and its only when you look at setup and tweek things you realise why. I had toe out both at front and rear so this was changed back to neutral at front and slight toe in at rear to help launches and traction out of corners, the rear anti-roll bar was softened to help rear traction, the front ant-roll bar was stiffened to help turn in, the front camber was increased to -2 minutes (still not sure if there is a difference between minutes and degrees) to help front traction and turn in and the rear camber was kept at -1.5 minutes to help launch off the line and a wider contact patch. In theory it sounded good but like anything, you have to try it to know if you like it. Before and after printout: So armed with new tyres and a new setup I thought the best thing to do would be to find a nice quiet road and do some launches. It was evident straight away that the grip level of semi-slicks is on another planet compared to road tyres, no matter how good a road tyre you have. I say this because I assumed there would be a marginal grip level increase at the expense of longevity but was quite amazed at the extra grip (again, must state this is a dry track tyre, rather than an all weather track tyre) I was having fun then this happened: I went to shift from 1st to 2nd and crunch, would not go into gear, clutch pedal on the floor. I managed to force it into a gear and tootled along until I could pull over with enough space for cars to get past. A phonecall to Mitz resulted in the possibility of the slave cylinder going or clutch fluid boiled or both. The clutch fluid was RBF600 and was boiled, with the slave being internal, it was impossible know if it had gone BUT it had been upgraded a year earlier as part of the extreme clutch kit so I was hoping it was just the fluid. I left the car 2 hours, still would not go in gear when started but would if ignition was off so bump it off in first and started the 7 or so miles back home crawling along at 10mph. Things did get scary when I had to get on a dual A road and keep looking behind me as cars braked from 70 to 20 as they saw the hazards on. Well it got back to local garage and by this time I tried the other gears and all engaged so luckily it just seemed the fluid. I ordered some RBF660 this time with a boiling point of a zillion degrees so hopefully that should put up with the abuse from now, clutch was bled, I got the car back the day before Japfest and it was filthy from the garage. It had to be cleaned even though it was 30d and scorching sun, every detailing rule was ignored but it got finished and still looked just about there. So off to Japfest we went, Great show, great forum stand and great weather. I was next to a rare Red Zed and had a good chat to the owner who name escapes me but even though there were just 2 Red Zeds at the show I think most people ended up going home with necks the same colour. I never even took a photo of my car so this one below is courtesy of @valy I think, plus ramdon pic of one the drift cars in the BDC, awesome spectacle of cars going sideways at 100mph into a corner. Massive thank you to @andy james for organising and everyone else involved. Sadly I missed out on the May Harewood event as I must have left it too late so all attention was then focused to the June 3rd event which I had a Definate entry for. A few little fast road runs were done to make sure the clutch, fluid and box were all working as they should and they were but I have developed a strong thud (or something hitting metal) noise over bumps like the suspension is bottoming out (it may be) but I have jumped on the suspension with all my weight and cant get it to make any noise, puzzled as to what it might be, possibly some worn bushes that haven't been replaced or engine mounts? will need to get it checked over at next service. Anyway onto weekend just gone and turned up at Harewood with 10 other competitors alongside me, was expecting 11 but unfortunately Kierens 350 decided it didn't like his "new" second hand propshaft and blew it up on the way to the event, felt gutted for him but he did turn up later to watch the action. First practice run was a 72, slightly quicker than previous but I was still driving as though on road tyres and it was apparent by the end of the run that there was so much more speed I could take round the corners. So practice run 2, I got brave and pushed a little, with a bit of tyre squeal on a couple of the corners and bang, straight to a 68. That's much more like it. Feeling that I could now start tweeking and experimenting with various braking points and corner entry it was onto the first of 3 timed runs that count. I wanted to put a banker run in as rain was forcast for the afternoon and possible thunderstorms which if materialised meant I probably would not have ventured out. So a safe 68.2 was registered (tenth quicker than prev) then it was lunch, then the second timed run, where I went for a mega start but just wheelspun the tyres for 50 metres so resulted in it being a few tenths slower, in fact everyone was slower so possibly the drop in air/track temp and everyone just eaten may have played a part. So onto third timed run and the rain had kept away. Once again started poorly (albeit better than prev two) but went as fast as I dare given my lack of track time/knowledge and got over the line in 67.8. Which I was pleased with for my first competitive try and even more pleased when it was confirmed I had finished in 3rd place in our class and a momento of the day in the shape of a crystal glass awaited me at presentation time. For info, the Class record time is 66 seconds dead, I need to find another 1-1.5 sec to be challenging for the wins, there is possibly another 0.5 sec to be had from the start and second sector ( I consistently had slowest get aways in the class) then the rest will have to come from perfecting braking points and entry/exit speeds/lines of corners. We will have to see if the car or me are capable but onwards and upwards as they say. It may come down to how much I want to risk trashing the car! Rear end shot below from the weekend with new Nankang stickers hiding the scratches and adding 3hp each: And my 3rd place trophy to cherish forever (or until one of the kids knocks it) Thanks for Reading

Welcome along

Yes mate. PM me your details and i will get it sorted

Welcome along

So does mine, but this is further forward and more to do with the suspension in my opinion. Just wondered if there is anything suspension/arm/bushing related i may have never replaced that could cause a bang over med-large potholes.

Top notch. Still one of the best looking cars around when fully detailed.

Not sure how to explain this but when i hit a largish bump in the road or a decent sized bump under braking (ie when the weight is more forward) the suspension feels/sounds like its bottoming out. I have eibach pro street coilovers, eibach anti roll bars, eibach adjustable arms and polybushed so there is very little movement. I have basically tried jumping on the suspension turretts whilst in the garage and cant get it to make any noise. (Just normal suspension movement which is only around 1” as its so stiff) i cant see anything catching or with potential to catch either so am scratching my head to whay it could be other than bottoming out but the coilovers are set to max height and the bumps that cause the noise are not “massive” as such. The car is fairly low (around 4-5”) ground clearence so was thinking if it maybe the undertray or a brace catching the road. I have a zspeed metal undertray which sits low but its not that type of feel/sound anyway sorry for waffling. Any ideas for things to check?

Welcome along, great purchase

Welcome

Welcome along

I sell the hydrate 80 to convert the rust and protect then also the dynax products to offer furthur protect. Check out the website

After upgrading many parts i need to clear these out. All from 2008HR at 65k miles unless stated, all prices collected from Pontefract. I can arrange delivery on smaller items for £5 Rear differential / pumpkin £100 *******NOW SOLD********* I purchased from Andy on here a doner diff when i upgraded to a kazz 2-way so it could be built off site first by a specialist then put straight in. This would be ideal for same job or direct replacement, no issues when removed. HR OEM air intake hoses/tubes £30 removed these when changing to silicone mishimoto versions. OEM rear camber arms £30 I have sanded down and resprayed them satin black. OEM air filters £20 Now most would just chuck these away but they are as new. Literally put in at service and i changed for K&N filters less than 500 miles later. OEM front camber arms £40 Just removed these after fitting adj arms purchased from zmanalex. OEM rear privacy boot attachment £25 Rear carpet £10 ***NOW SOLD*** has 2 little slits in where brackets went through to hold boot divider. Michelin Pilot Supersport Tyres £100 ***NOW SOLD*** pair of 245/40 R18 done around 4k miles in 2 years. Michelin Pilot Supersport Tyres £100 ***NOW SOLD*** pair of 275/40 R18 same as prev done around 4k miles in 2 years, listed separately as not a common size but if anyone wants to take both pairs i will let them go for £150. OEM spacesaver spare wheel £50 never been used as far as i can tell.

This “condensed” version is now on the wax and shine website along with the option to purchase the winning product.

Welcome along

A common issue and usually resolved by changing the gear oil and adding molyslip in with it. If that doesnt sort it you prob have bigger problems.

It dries like most other waxes, your car bonnet isnt sticky when you wax it but it never fully cures so as to self heal like mentioned before.

Welcome along

There are various options. There is not a definitive lifespan on wax as it will lessen over time naturally but the wax does self heal where paints when chipped wont, so potentially expose the metal. The S50 is for cavities so out of direct contact. I sprayed it into any hole (easy tiger) underneath and behind arch liners etc. The UB is for exposed areas underneath and is a brown/black coating so you can see where you have used it, i put this onto any exposed metal on the underside. The UC is similar to UB but clear so better for areas you see that you dont want to turn brown, i used it on the suspension components, in the arches and cills, and behind front/rear bumpers. The hydrate 80 converts and protects already rusted surfaces. I didnt need this as the underside was very clean but for older DE models this will sort any existing rust issues. Have a look online. The products get great reviews and i was very happy with using them.

I have undersealed mine last year and used bilt hamber dynax range after scouring the web for reviews. I now sell the very stuff i used. Below is link to a kit but everything is available individually on the site also. https://waxandshine.co.uk/shop?olsPage=products%2Fbilt-hamber-underseal-kit

The car is great but not really a recommended first car. Without wanting to sound like Dad ( im only in my 30's) The insurance is gonna be through the roof. Only a few companies will do it, if you are 18 or so, and its gonna be a think of a number, add a nought and treble it kind of quote. Then you have due to the age, (as with many older cars) the fact that the clutch, exhaust, gallery gaskets, arms and many other common probs could need replacing at any point so you need to have a grand or 2 contingency funds available or you could be left with a great looking car sat on the drive not moving. Saying all that, i'm sure it will pull you the girls (or boys) shame there's no back seats, and if you can afford it, go for it, just don't go driving silly in the wet until your comfortable with the car. Dad advice over.