Richf

Its true that the ecu can adjust to air flow and minor changes but as far as I am aware it only runs closed loop for parts of the map so when the engine goes to full load etc and at high rpm the ecu will just refer back to a "target" setting on the map for afr that it is set at from stock, it doesn't "know" what the afr is as the lambda sensor cannot react fast enough or accurately enough. For those that have an interest in mapping I can fully recommend the courses that Jez Horsham runs http://www.emacademy.co.uk/

cut and paste from there She told RTL radio that Renault "has committed to recalling a certain number of vehicles, 15,000 vehicles, to check them and adjust them correctly so that the filtration system works" in all temperatures. Ms Royal said: "New cars must meet the norms. To correctly adjust an engine takes half a day." 15,000 vehicles each taking half a day is 7500 days or 20.5 YEARS of work! Thats going to cost a fortune !

I've spent a fair bit of time under mine and its pretty well protected , the braces etc could probably do with being removed and powercoated , that's something I'm planning to do to mine Imports however dont tend to have much if any underseal so its a must for them This was my R33 Skyline before and after

If you are confident in his work £500 isnt that much to do it properly I reckon 2 to 3 days work. It took me 10 days to do my Evo myself but I removed the fuel tank , exhaust and prop etc Of course being an import the Evo barely had paint in places let alone underseal, the 370 is pretty well protected and doesnt really "need" any further attention

I used pcp as cheap finance on my daily , took it out at 2.6% but it came with free servicing so that balanced out, the gfv doesnt matter to me as I will probably keep it and the capital has sat there gaining 4% interest in that time

I had Nitrous on my V6 MR2 and cheap to buy etc kit wise but bloody expensive to run and a pain to source places to top up tank etc.. definately wont be doing that one again :-( You can rent a tank and fill your own bottles easily enough , thats what I did and my mates now do

Cant believe what you read in the papers although there does seem to be a lot of issues regarding the filming

5.8% interest? No wonder Ford are making so much money off finance , more than they do making the cars so I read. Thought Nissan were poor at 3.5% although that's just dropped to 2.9% again

Oh I dont know I felt pretty negative when I put my 370 onto Horsham's dyno and it was 10% down on stock AFTER breathing mods ! Its not unusual for dyno results to differ between makes and tuners , that doesn't mean there is any kind of shenanigans going on just different dynos read slightly differently.

No base dyno to compare too. So in honesty those numbers are completely worthless. +1 and you cant compare one dyno to another or a dyno pull on one day with another As long as it drives well , thats all that matters

The 370 has the Nissan Matic S (J) Part Number 999MP MTS00P which is not a fluid for life. thats not what i have read http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/98358-7-speed-auto-trans-fluid-change.html but its by the by , many mercs are sealed for life but if you see the debris and state of the fluid after 40,000 miles youd be mad not to change it anyhow

I don't believe in any sealed for life auto boxes, more like sealed for warranty period imo . I'm changing my 370z fluid this year

BMW used the same software to cheat emissions testing on their bikes a few year back , long before VW did .

I agree, I cant help thinking that DS2500 pads (whilst they are great on track) are an unnecessary expense for road use. I fitted EBC grooved discs and red stuff pads to my 370z recently as I found the standard pads weren't so great braking from 110mph plus, its a big improvement over stock and maintain performance when braking from high speed and cost about half of what DS2500 do

The Q60 reminds me of the Lexus RC-F

I wouldnt touch them with a barge pole ! Next week Horsham Developments is mapping a car that a customer is bringing down from Scotland, a good mapper is worth travelling to!

As said the foamiest isnt necessarily the best , I use Envy's mostly but Bilt Hamber is excellent as well

another vote for Horsham , a lot to be said for having a specialist generally look at your car while its in there

I bought the eBay droplinks , im tight as well !

For what they cost id fit new droplinks all round , i did . You will need go drop the exhaust to do it , we tried to get around it but its a non starter

I fitted front and rear Eibachs to mine back in the summer, front is set to full hard but rear is on the middle but I will drop it to the softest next chance I get. In the US they usually just do the front and some even remove the rear one altogether as its the front that really requires upgrading

I believe that the law says maximum 5 litres in plastic cans and 10 litres in metal cans , I used to use one of these but I bought my race fuel in metal cans anyhow and just decanted it to make it easier to handle http://www.tooled-up.com/product/high-quality-metal-jerry-can-for-petrol-or-diesel-fuel-red-10-litre/159799/?Referrer=googleproductlisting&gclid=CjwKEAiAws20BRCs-P-ssLbSlg4SJABbVcDplPXP2-CNtNCEtegjrlSV3kOMI8s5XGTaXiImdiLRrBoCp3zw_wcB

You are best off using the 10l jerry can type , its not ideal to store fuel in plastic containers as the uv light can degrade it over time. Also you cant fill anything bigger than 10 litres at the pumps . Its certainly easier to fill with the big jugs though but a nice big funnel will speed things up for you

As a comparison , these are the 350z auto shafts so you can compare to Dominics, I believe these are needed for the auto only though, its a different quaife diff for the manual to the auto and much less work involved

Not sure this link will work http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/67116-quaife-lsd-question.html