chubbster

Personally, I like to put it on my strawberries.

The title of this thread attracted my attention, as 2 days ago I had 30 rubble sacks filled to the brim with horses poo in my "other vehicle" (campervan). However, I wouldn't dream of putting one single lump of dog poo in it - so I'm afraid I can't quite agree with your assertion. As far as I'm concerned, there's poo and - - - there's poo.

Hello & welcome, from yet another Herts owner (Hertford area). I used to have a 56 plate black 350 - loved that car. Edited to delete a stupid 'spotted' that never was! The car I saw was a 370.

When you're in the Music Box screen, do the following... 1. tap 'Menu' 2. tap 'Music Box Settings' 3. tap 'Delete Track' ...then follow the options, to delete either individual tracks or entire albums.

...coming towards me, heading towards Ware, being driven by a gentleman of relatively mature years. Spookily, at first I thought it was me, but then I realised I was on the other side of the road, and I was in my campervan. .....and mine's a 10 plate

Did you manage to offload the jewellery for a decent price? Surely it covered the cost of the parking ticket, so why the moaning?

I thought the 70 only has 40 on the front? Well mine does! ooops - you may well be right. This has crossed my mind but I love them too much Thanks for all the useful advice, I'll stick with the correct size. Currently I have FK453's fitted by the previous owner, same on the front, I'll likely get the same again I've had no problems with them. I like Falkens too.

Your current tyres are the correct size for a 350z - I have exactly the same wheels/tyres. It's possible to get 40's - in fact, it's what the stock rears on the 370z have. I just run my 350z LMGT4's on my 370z and they are fine (I think they handle better than the stock wheels). Personlly I'd just accept the bumps in the road - spending shitloads of cash on new tyres won't make any difference.

Should polish out. ...sorry, but it was way overdue.

1. Press & hold the window button in the down position. Keep pushing the button for 15 seconds after the window has opened completely. 2. Now, lift & hold the same button to shut the window, keeping the button held up for 15 seconds after the window has shut completely. Does that work?

I flashed, he was still waking up.

Snowdonia?

I've got a camera with pre-installed gridlines and I'd like to get rid of them. How sure are you that it's just a piece of clear film in front of the ccd, before I go taking my camera apart? Also, I'll re-emphasise what you've been saying about your kits being only suitable for 2010 model cars onwards - the ones with Connect Premium stereo/satnav systems. My system, which was built & supplied by someone from 'the other place' is exactly as you describe - and it works beautifully. I cannot recommend them highly enough, because, as anyone with a 370 knows, rear visibility is quite dodgy.

I think he was just reversing two of the letters.

He sells the 350z ones aswell, shoot him a pm http://www.350z-uk.c...essories-sales/ It's the first mod anyone should do, imho. Great result for very little outlay or effort - my kind of mod.

Did you manage to keep the little plastic bit? Here's a link to the double-ended screws I bought, in case you want to try a similar repair... CLICK HERE Erm, sorry, can't remember. I have a range of techniques that I employ to achieve this outcome and I forget which one I used on this particular occasion. It will definitely have been speed-related.

Your wife is absolutely right here. I did the same thing a few years ago - reversed into the side of my wife's car on our driveway, creating the most ugly big dent in the side of it, BECAUSE SHE DIDN'T PARK IT WHERE SHE ALWAYS PARKS IT. Naturally it was her fault, but strangely, even to this day, she tries to blame me. Just man-up and admit that you made a mistake.

I'm a flasher.

...as long as there aren't hidden problems, if it's been in a knock (and I'm not saying it has). Personally I like the base model - you're not restricted by the evil tentacles of the distinctly average Bose audio system (apart from the satnav/touch screen element of it, which is very good) and you don't have the unnecessary gimmick of synchro rev match. If I were to buy a brand new 370z I would go for the base model - it's easier to improve the audio.

Fitted mine the other day - delighted with it. Asad asked me if I'd post a pic - and as he's doing them for such a good price it's the least I could do... Thanks Asad.

White 370z, Harlow, Sunday, 11.30am (ish)

Firstly, all uk 370z's have viscous limited slip differential as standard. Secondly, the rate of clutch wear depends on your driving style. I've had 2 x 350z's and a 370z and (so far) I've not had to replace a clutch. Some people can make a clutch last for ages. I've not had my car on the track, but even if I drive in a spirited fashion on the roads I can make the oil temperature get quite high very easily. If I were going to track my car (and I'm not) I'd seriously consider an oil cooler, as well as uprating the brakes, of course. If I were you, as you're able to spend 18k, go for a GT version (not to be confused with the GT Edition), 2010 or later, because the audio upgrade is significant. If you're lucky you could get a 2010 GT pack version for quite a lot less than that - I did, and that was over 2 years ago Good luck.

Coincidentally, I saw one on offer in Aldi today. Might not be what you're after. They're doing tools too. https://www.aldi.co.uk/en/specialbuys/thursday-13th-march/product-detail/ps/p/25hp-air-compressor/

Despicable scum who need to be hurt badly.

The fuel filler flap locking mechanism is very flimsy - I speak from personal experience. Having annoyed a fellow motorist with my driving style, I decided to lock my doors internally. I promptly forgot I'd done this and stopped at Tesco for some petrol. Got out of the car and the filler flap wouldn't open (presumably the internal lock will let you open the car door, but keeps the filler flap locked). Didn't realise why it wouldn't open, got frustrated, pulled it and 'ping' - broke the little plastic locking piece. Luckily the little plastic piece was sitting just under the fuel cap, so I took it home. When I got home I simply removed the filler flap lock assembly from inside the boot, drilled two small holes - one in the little broken plastic piece and another in the end it had broken off from and connected them back together with a small double-ended screw (ebay). An unintentional bonus is that my lock is now much more secure because it has a metal screw running right though it. ...or you can pay $95+shipping for a new part from Courtesyparts in the USA - or probably more from Nissan UK. Hope this helps someone. Here's a picture of the whole assembly (the bit that breaks off is on the left)...