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Jp606

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Everything posted by Jp606

  1. Only need a 10mm hex socket, very simple job to do on the driveway. Best to use genuine Nissan fluid, however I'd be inclined to find the source of the leak first before driving it any more.
  2. I really want decats but I'm worried about how loud they are!
  3. Just picked mine up from the post office, chuffed to see my pic for July! Very well put together and filled with lovely cars, thanks
  4. Not a problem if the car is lightly soiled or dusty, like in the summer. A very high lube QD will work fine, like in my post above. Also a clean MF each time is essential.
  5. Jesus, it was actually missing and you didn't know!!??
  6. Chemical Guys Speed Wipe is what I've found to be best for me, always keep a bottle in the car with a MF. It has very high lubricity so won't harm your paintwork, completely wax safe and it's also anti static. I use it pretty much daily in the summer to keep the car looking 'just waxed' between weekly washes.
  7. Definitely worth the extra for the reasons above, just think of it as the same cost as a couple of extra tanks of fuel.
  8. Slightly stiffer than OEM, still very comfortable. They will be fine for track use, I have Tein springs, Eibach ARBs and Whiteline drop links which are great together, however I had the springs on on their own for a weekend and the car felt a lot more improved in cornering. The drop is perfect for me, not too much that I can't get over speed bumps easily and doesn't require new camber arms etc. I struggled on OEM springs with the odd speed bump round here, but wanted uprated springs etc for fast road and the odd track day and Teins have the best balance for this IMO. There's a pic in my build thread of the drop if you are wondering what it looks like.
  9. Fitted the Eibach ARBs and Whiteline adjustable drop links today. Wow! Why didn't I fit these sooner! Paired with the Tein springs the car now corners like it's on rails, drives like a different car. Understeer has also been reduced a lot. I highly recommend anyone thinking about these to get it done! Easy enough to fit, drop links need to be adjusted so that there is no preload on the bar, meaning you have to adjust them with the car on the ground, there's not a lot of space to get under with it on the ground, especially now it's lowered but it's just about doable on the driveway. Anyway a few pics: Thinking of a rear wiper delete next. Car also needs a service as I've covered 6k already since the last one!
  10. Wow! Someone got a ridiculously good bargain with that :/
  11. Looking good. Did my springs last weekend, pretty straight forward job and I was surprised that I had no trouble with seized bolts, Plus Gas releasing fluid and a wire brush works wonders. Shall be doing the ARBs Sunday if the weather is ok. Not sure if yours is the same, but I found one of my rear sides sat slightly lower than the other, it may even out after the springs have settled more but I think it's quite normal.
  12. Go for a wrap.
  13. HEL lines and Motul RBF 600 fluid.
  14. Jp606

    Surely not..

    Looks Ace! Sorry.
  15. Yes, you barely need any pressure. Do a small area at a time, you will feel contaminants catching on the clay, then eventually it will run smooth and if you run your fingers over the panels you will be able to feel how smooth the paintwork is. It will take a bit of time to do the whole car. I always use some Iron X before claying as that does a good job at removing bits of tar, wash > iron x > rinse > clay > then correct and protect. It's important to protect the paintwork after claying, as essentially you've got a completely unprotected finish.
  16. Don't forget you will need adjustable rear camber arms and toe bolts if you are dropping that much, anything over 20mm tends to need them to get the camber back into factory spec or your tyres will be mullered! Eibach Pro Streets drop around 30mm.
  17. Claying is for prepping paintwork to remove contaminants prior to paintwork correction, such as polishing. If you've never done it then I recommend it, but polish and protect the paintwork after. Clay won't remove the scratches and if not used properly will add more scratches, use lots of lube and fold regularly! I recommend the Megs kit too, pretty good stuff. T-cut is the devils toothpaste.
  18. Black Diamond disks and matching pads, or more expensive Ferodo DS2500 pads are perfect for this. I'd also suggest braided brake lines (like HEL) and a good fluid, Motul RBF600 for example.
  19. Pretty good cars. Turbocharged 4 cylinder engine producing 260bhp, which will remap very well if you want. It will be a very different power delivery to the Z and stock it won't match the HR Z for performance. It won't be as involved as the Z, there's only so much fun you can have in a FWD auto hatchback and they struggle to keep the power down once you start remapping.
  20. Yep and yep. It was as though the bolt was spinning with them, but they are fixed and can't spin.
  21. I fitted my Tein springs today, pretty impressed with them. Did you find that the three 12mm nuts that hold the front strut top mounts on didn't tighten much? I couldn't get mine very tight as they kept spinning once wound all the way in for some reason.
  22. Finally had some free time today and good weather so fitted the Tein springs. Pretty straight forward to do, fronts take a while but the rears take no time at all. Impressed with them, the Z height looks better now but I'm surprised at the cornering difference, definitely feels more planted round corners now. They are very slightly firmer than OEM, barely noticeable though, the front springs are progressive so give an OEM like ride normally and firm up under load. Overall I'm very impressed, especially for the cost! Well worth doing. Pics: Old vs new Fronts Rear Completely forgot to take a before pic, but here is an after to show the drop: Excuse the poor light, it was getting dark by the time I finished! Also have some Eibach ARBs and Whiteline adjustable drop links to fit, hopefully next weekend if it's not raining again. Once these are on then I'll be taking it down to Abbey Motorsport for a four wheel alignment.
  23. Payment and PM sent for mine
  24. Not even comparable cars, couldn't be more different. Both have completely different markets, when I was in the market for a fast RWD 2 seater coupe I didn't look at Astras.
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