Jetpilot

As above and also Veilside

How is an exhaust "drift spec" You would probably be better keeping your eye out for 2nd hand stainless steel exhaust that you know fits imho

Good shout, why not go one of the Nissan Midnight purples, flash and pending on angle or light will look mean. There is a r34gtr at my mates body shop in midnight purple 3, purple/blue/gold/bronze in one sitting

Different colours work on different cars imho, as mentioned about the Range Rover Orange, its a lovely colour and I got an Rx7 sprayed in it, it looked tragic. Even in standard colours the 350 looks very different. If you want it to look mean as per your post, yellows and oranges wont work, it will look flash, needs to be something dark if you want mean.

As above per zman and which is exactly what i said in one of your other posts. Its impossible for us to diagnose from our pc's, take it to a specialist, get it sorted and then enjoy

Not a great fan of yellow, just cant help think plastic kit car for some reason. If you want stand out i would go Tempur orange or subtle Porsche Grey black, a very dark soild grey

Probably the best use for it imho I guess a lot would depend how far you actually had to have it shut regards performance loss, by looking at the video for it to be effective it would have to be pretty well closed or at least 2/3rds shut imho and your playing a guessing game as to when to press the switch. Regards ecu compensating for fuelling it would have to be pre lambda sensor post cat, not halfway down the exhaust, not sure anyone hopes to gain performance from an exhaust on here, just audible pleasure

I hear you on the smell and to my delight, found out i am allergic to voc's in paint, so now wear a mask. Oil based does give a better finish but appreciate the convenience of water/acrylic paints.

Thanks guys

No need to base coat/undercoat walls unless you are having problems, two coats of coloured emulsion is fine. If your trying to block out bold colours, buy some cheapo white emulsion and use that first rather than spend money on coloured emulsion. Being in the trade, acrylic or water based satinwood/gloss is shocking, its a constant gripe that they are trying to phase out oil based paints. Otherwise some good tips above, expensive brushes (purdy) will make the job much easier and last for ages if you look after them.

Will the garage not have a pit, was only thinking this the other day actually?

Most tracks have drive by sound tests so you will still get thrown out even if you pass the static test.

I looked at doing this on my jdm, according to the usa forums its possible with an uprev, by all accounts, all the wiring is in place, you just need a uk steering wheel and sensors for the pedals, then the uprev map.

Judging by the plethora of replica bumpers, spoilers, wheels on here I am surprised anyone has bad thing to say about copies Not forgetting fake carbon of course I say buy it

What sort of figures are you guys paying for fi'd as am i starting to get some quotes? Anyone particularly good? So far i have tried Bridle.

Update: Offsets are Rear 38 Front 34 £500 delivered before ebay

Heated up quicker than a crack heads spoon Back on topic, saw one at the local dealer. Very aggressive styling, almost "because race car", not unpleasant but not to my tastes reminds me of a dtm car minus the fins

I reckon you need to find a decent garage near you or take a day off work and go to horsham or similar and get them to diagnose these on going gremlins. You could even try Ross at Dragon Performance, he is reasonably close to you, he is not a 350 specialist but but a very knowledgeable guy.

http://www.neweraimp...winTurbo(430bhp)Fast&Furious-TokyoDriftORIGINALFILMCAR!!!.pdf Full Newera spiel too for anyone that is interested. Sorry cant seem to link correctly, just copy and paste into browser. But note: Having just completed a complete bodywork restoration to crazy levels of perfection, the body work and accompanying artwork is absolutely flawless. In quest for perfection, Newera commissioned an entire specialist respray with many layers followed by deep coats of laquer to create a stunning level of finish before laying complete new high-quality decals of original one-off Veilside design.

Buster didnt seem to happy about me suggesting i was going to steal his so on the lookout

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/wheels-tyres-sale-private-sales/238392-rota-gtr-d-12j-et20-rear-10j-et12-front.html Just buy these.

There is and its white, haha. Do we know which photos are real, do we know if the graphics werent applied afterwards to level it up to the drivers side? It has documentation, probably from Universal Studios, its really the only thing that matters, none others advertised have that and that is what will sell this car, whether thats anywhere near £150k is a completely different story

Stevos link with details on the cars used for filming: http://www.topspeed.com/cars/nissan/2006-nissan-350z-tokyo-drift-ar10582.html

Be wary of estimates until the have the product in hand to see the fitment, sorry to be a doom monger but too many times in the past have i been caught out on estimates on fitting aftermarket stuff

Oh really? Damn. I emailed JDMFlares but not got anything back. Any others to recommend? I contacted Stardast but at £1,400 for the kit I'm going to give that one a miss lol Customer service AND fit, knightracer is renowned for being hideous, especially if they are "universal". I think the AMS ones Stevo posted are by the far the nicest and most complimentary, love the cut out front wings, but a member on here who bought the ams kit had to have extensive work carried out to get them to fit well. I dont wish to sound rude (not trying to be), but if you think this is going to be a cheap exercise you dont appreciate the amount of work needed, unless of course it just some rivet on flares. Nothings going to be cheap swiftyy if you want to it to look decent.