The Trouser

My Nissan dealer charged me roughly the same - £800 for a new exhaust at 80k

Never heard of any of those - is Mobil 5w30 fully synth okay?

Thanks for that - loads of info Was going to post a similar article - no need to now

Had mine done recently at my Nissan dealer - £288 fitted.

100K 2004 plate owned from new

Joined the club today just as I pulled onto my driveway : Bought new in March 2004 and have enjoyed driving every mile with it. Still has the original clutch, but new exhaust (at 80k) and new sub frame (at 99k). And despite having a small list of repairs that need fixing (window motors, rust spot) I'm still lovin' it

Just picked up my Zed today after it being two days on the body-shop have a rust spot repaired. Picked it up and had a quick look to see it the rust spot had gone - it had. Horraah! Went shopping and decided to take a closer look at the rust spot repair after I'd parked up - ran a wet finger over the repair and though "that's feels a bit lumpy" - and what are all these white marks? Took it back to the Nissan dealer who did the repair and who said - "No that's not right, there's some crap that's got under lacquer - we'll book it in and respray it for you". So I'm happy with that - he's not tried to fob me off with some old pony and has agreed to re-do the work. Then I drove home only to find that my drivers side window motor has packed up - no click, no nothing (my passengers side window motor is the same and is on my to-do list) Damn! If only I didn't love this car some damn much Approaching 100K - anyone else find things like this happening?

99K on mine - bought it new March 2004. Original clutch - new exhaust at 80k. Regular servicing and keep checking that oil level

I had the same - see here http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/68596-clunking-on-passenger-front-wheel/page__hl__plywood#entry1021536 Turned out to be the front suspension arm

Thanks to all - I'm sure I've read somewhere previously that it was 1 - 1.2 LT - so thanks for the info - that will be fine.

I've tried to search for this but unfortunately couldn't find an answer If my dipstick is on the low level mark - how much oil should I add to get it to the high level mark? TIA TT

I've been made redundant twice and although it a bit stressful at the time I've ended up in better jobs with better money. Change is good - best of luck!

Just spotted a burst paint bubble below the filler cap on my Zed today

Just read the whole thread - great work! Well done to all involved

I had this - easy fix was to just rotate the belt where its bolted to the floor until the belt is right again.

97K and still with the original clutch too

Welcome

Sorry - too busy using my mobile phone while driving to be looking at my watch as well

Fantastic stuff! Thanks for sharing

Just read this whole thread - great stuff! Loving the Ginger Ninja

Congratulations! Used to live in Poole and there are some great roads for driving in the surrounding countryside - enjoy

My oil pressure has always been at a steady 60psi at 3000 rpm (when warmed up) - but recently has dropped to just below 60 and seems to fluctuate a bit (never noticed that before). Should I be concerned? Also, I recall reading in another thread that the amount of oil present in the system (i.e. dipstick reading) has nothing to do with oil pressure - if so, then what does affect the oil pressure? TIA

Great pics! I'm going to use one as my PC's Desktop

Great stuff! - thanks for sharing