RobPhoboS

I thought I'd update this thread, can take pics again if required MODS ? Based near Junc 8 M25. These parts are from an 04 DE GCFabrications Harness Bar £180 collection only (bit of a pain to send via post I think). Note £236 inc postage from GC, and in my case about 3 or 4 months waiting for it! Spare wheel (great condition) £50 Boot mat is with me, will take a specific photo ASAP £40 (plastics gone) Rear Michelin Pilot Sport 4 x 2 = £50 Used on a track day quite some time ago now, and are just taking up space. I'll measure the tread depth today. DE Cams, Springs & Shims £50 + postage: Cobra Sports Non resonated Mid-Pipe £35 + postage: Please note, this is likely to ONLY fit a Cobra Sports system, so if you have a resonated section and want a bit more volume. Stoptech front Brembo fitment discs £100 + postage 29-30mm thickness The day I took them off it was raining heavily but I've coated them with some anti-rust stuff. So if you buy them, please wash them with soapy water first, then use some brake cleaner, once you've done some bedding in they should look fine again. K&N Air Filter - RU 2820 - £40(inc delivery) The filter is new, unopened box There are more things to come (stock upper/lower plenum), I'll update the thread in due course. Please PM

Ah that's some valuable info for you guys right there ! Kaizer did my ones a couple of years ago, they used the saw

Just search on youtube, or the US forum, you can make the tool yourself but this one is built for purpose. I don't understand why the garages don't have them. https://www.z1motorsports.com/transmission-driveline/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-rear-differential-bushing-removal-tool-370z-g37-p-11086.html (tbf, one person could buy it and sell it on or go halves ) I can take the diff out pretty quickly by myself now using axle stands and one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Floor-Transmission-Jack-150kg-TJ150E/121835543477?epid=21017013245&hash=item1c5df6dbb5:g:I44AAOSw5p5dDJn9 (perfect for a diff, not sure about dropping the transmission on it!)

Hey man. Well the car isn't finished in terms of optimising the breathing for the cams yet. If you change cams, you must address intake, and exhaust too (headers specifically) or it's a little bit of a waste. So with that in mind, as it is right now, not much happens until around 3.5k (as you can see from the graph), so you need to bare that in mind when on track and ensure you're in the right gear. A 3.9 FD is on my wishlist which should help a little with acceleration too. Daily driving, less responsive. Track driving, more (but I don't 'daily' the car). If you look at jwt's website you'll see these C8's are designed to work with the DE engine without headwork. But you should always check with the manufacturer on what they recommend, and if it will work with your engine. If you go down the cam route, you need to select the cam very carefully and choose a model for what you intend to use it for. Ex: http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/CAM_SPEC_CARD_VQ35_INCL_REVUP.pdf I'd say that cam selection is vital, you kind of build an N/A engine around it. At least that's how I'm seeing it.

Personally when buying cars, stick to the owner forums, and from someone that has a decent reputation and has participated. Also look at where it's being serviced (if possible), some shady pork mechanics out there !

Yep that's right. I'll go and switch them over, hopefully it's just thar, what an idiot

When I put the car back together in Feb/March, I must have mixed up something to do with the washer pipes. So when I want to wash the windscreen, I have to push thr stalk away from me hah. Any idea which pipe or connector I've mixed up?

Kaizer Motor: https://kaizermotor.co.uk/

Or another forum trader too: https://www.torqen.uk/145-gaskets

Strangely enough I have the same weird problem occur on my negative terminal! I just reseated it, and put my thumb on the back of the bolt the nut is tightening against. And just tighten it up gently with a proper 6 point fitting spanner. Seemed to have helped for now.

Here's a quick before/after. The old one was sagging like f$£%, always scraping on the road.

Ah sorry, I didn't see you were new to the forum ! Use this area to check out what people are up to: https://www.350z-uk.com/forum/156-member-build-projects/ And this is his build specifically (starting with an HR as his base, where as I'm a DE): I don't have a build thread as I mentioned, I tend to just post bits here and there (car isn't finished of course):

Well, I got a few other bits and pieces didn't I! Finally 4 years later I got one Thanks again sir!

Did you miss 350Butchers very detailed thread? As that's what he's done. I'm also mild na build but 3.5, although I don't have a build thread.

I have one boxed and good to go! Fully working order, I'll take some photos when I get home for you.

Yep, I've seen a few of them with umteen watches that they'll buy up and sell on a year or two later (with Brucey bonus). I couldn't do that as I'd not have a clue about them, other than - oh, that looks nice

I want a Seiko, although I don't know what one just yet. I think I have about 15 different watches in wishlists (all affordable). Some mates have ridiculous pieces (PatekP/Hublot etc), however I don't really care about the inner workings of them, just the design. Basically the complete opposite to cars for some reason

I have whiteline bushings in the diff, my subframe was the stock Nissan bits I'm on AD08R tyres, I've not driven it in anger in the wet but it hasn't been twitchy the last 3 track days (I did 3 in a row Silverstone/Donny/Anglesey), imho that's more to do with suspension geo and damper settings if it's twitchy (it'll depend on user input and conditions too of course). These modifications just help lock the driveline down at the rear and reduce issues with wheel hop, and being able to transfer the power down. So yes it's transfers the energy but where it's meant to go (once again, imho). Note I also have a Kaaz 1.5 way diff too

Ask Adrian about the diff support, I also have one of those - that's a mod that I think most of us should have as the poor thing is only held on by 1 bolt at the rear without it !

It's the same as what they said, the 'stay brackets' will need to be unbolted (I bought a replacement set as my ones were like croissants), and I've not looked under the 370Z, so I don't know what else you may need to remove. Just ensure the car is on axle stands and you use the jack to support the diff.

TBH this is the link you want to read thoroughly: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/482664-suspension-101-a.html Anything you're asking or thinking of asking has been asked many times So please, have a read of that with your preferred wake-up juice. In short: If you lower/raise the car from stock height then you mess up the geometry of the suspension, and how it was intended to move. It's up to you if you want to have it all working optimally. BUT I will tell you right now, you can't just change 1 thing and think yes that's sorted it, unfortunately it's a cascading affect once that ride height has changed. If you're only driving it on the road, I'm sure most of it doesn't matter but typically you want to adjust the camber/toe front/rear. If you look at the aftermarket, there are varying factors, cost, durability, intended use etc Once again, you only really need to go that route if you change the height, or if something OEM won't quite get to the adjustment you want.

I got a set of these about 2 months ago from @Adrian@TORQEN and I have to say they're very much worth having! Moreso if you track the car. The installation isn't quite as straightforward as 30 mins and you're done. It IS easy though. The time will increase if your bits and bobs are a bit rusty under there, so take your time and care. I had several bolts that were completely knackered and needed to use one of those rounded bolt/nut removal kits (the rust was severe!). I ended up replacing a bunch of rusty stuff under there, so have a look first. Feel free to ask any questions!

Once again many thanks for the SPL parts and this big shiny beasty ! (I'm not a fan of chrome/bling but I have to say it does look good) Hopefully it does what I expect it to do. DE + Cams + this = more power waay beyond stock.

You're welcome, there are quite a few videos explaining knock-back but it's only something you're likely to really get on track.

Get a couple of impact 'wobble sockets'. (I've got a pair of US pro ones which do the job fine)