cs2000

Ahhh, I didn't see them and only gave it some beans on that straight road through the fields on either side, im sure you know the one. With all the will in the world, I couldn't hope to get the car sideways and then get it back in the same shape so I don't even bother!

Even the cheapest nastiest ones out there will read the code and allow you to reset the EML light. Should be fine but let us know how you get on!

Initially yes im sure they will just pull fault codes. They should only break out the Consult 2 to actually perform a reset of the sensor. US forums say they are charged $75 for this service. A nice code reader is always a useful tool. Even a single use of it makes it pay for itself, my local garages charge £25 just to read a code...

Looks brilliant mate Another service you will be offering soon??? (you do like to keep busy don't you!)

Sure is, I still go there even though I don't have a Nissan anymore I think there should be a rule against this Yeah it is will, surely isn't too far from you as you're in London. Takes me almost 2 hrs to get there, traffic permitting of course. Best thing is, I used cruise most of the way there, managed 32MPG overall for the trip so didn't even cost me that much fuel, plus, there's an epic road just a mile or so from his shop, brilliant new tarmac, perfect visibility and very straight :D Unsurprisingly, the roundabout at the end of this ~1.5-2 mile road is covered in tyre/drifting marks

Should be some more PM's landing in peoples inboxes as of yesterday and today

Hey all, just wanted to say thanks again to Sly for his work on my car Saturday. I know some people will question why I go so far, but I trust him with my car! SO, arrived at Kaizer Motor at 8:45 AM and was greeted by Sly, this is the first time ive seen him despite it being my cars second visit to this place ! (have a look for my other thread if you'd like). Todays jobs were... P3 Service Replace front bushes on banana arms Undo Calliper bolts & re-torque (so I can later change the disks myself) Hunter wheel alignment Fit rear drop links. As far as entertainment for the 3 hours, I took my PS Vita and my phone, but to be honest I spent most of that time gazing out of the window wondering quite how sly manages to keep the walls so white! seriously, the cleanest workshops ive ever seen. First job was the bushes, I had some awful knocks and squeaks from the front end, Sly soon showed me why. Upon removing the drivers side arm, the bush fell out by its own accord, the arm had been simply resting on the sub frame and was slightly damaged, sly managed to rectify this and fit the bushes. Drop-links had to be cut of as the upper bolts had seized, then he did the service which was done in record time! Then onto the insanely cool Hunter wheel alignment system, and the obligatory shot of this amazing machine. I mean, sly was barely moving the spanner on the adjuster, and the machine was picking up the almost invisible adjustments! Sadly, but not surprisingly, bot of these simply sheered off when sly was trying to loosen them, luckily, he has spares And then I was off home. Il definitely be back and had a smile on my face all the way home, car handled much better after the alignment, no more knocks, rattles or squeaks from the new bushes and drop links and knowing my service is all done and she's ready for the winter. Thanks for all the work Sly, Just the service alone saved me over £150 from the price Nissan quoted me and looking at all the certificates and trophy's in the waiting room, well, you may as well be at Nissan! As I said, il be back

Where are ylou located, probably a member close by with one. A little hit and miss, but id try turning the wheel all the way left, the counting as precisely as you can how many turns it takes to go all the way right, half that and turn back left that amount of turns. Hopefully your wheel will be dead centre, but id bet yours wont be. Then its just a matter of taking whe wheel off and rotating it back so its cenrered properly. Or, go to the stealers and get them to reset the sensor, making note of my caution in the post above regarding the wires.

Where is mr "Do it nice" lately, don't recall seeing him for a while.

Hah, didn't realise you were actually buying 90% of the pure porn you posted early on in this topic. Car looks amazing, and I LOVE the leds in the wing.

My bet is that you rotated the wheel. Now the poor ESP/TCS things you have the wheel turned when you actually don't. Something along the lines of wheel position sensor. Electronics ... If it is that a code reader will tell you. But you can only see the actual degrees that its reporting with UpRev software. The dealer can reset the sensor too with their Consult 2 device, but if you've rotated it by any more than 180 degrees you need to hope you havnt damaged any of the wires...

Could do mate I think whatever its going to need some soldering, definitely a poor design choice if this is true, I mean, it is only a filament bulb after all, it is going to fail at some point. Nissan: "Yes sir we can fix that, please just bend over and accept the £200 bill youre about to receive"

Good guide, hopefully will stop the "im buying a new car, anything to look out for" posts

Ok mate, weird, but I guess we learn something every day. LincolnBaggie, you should have a reply to your PM I have added the photos of the two kinds to the main page. Anyone who's ordered up-to now can get a refund for those bulbs (will have to check the exact price, but will only be £4.00 orso) if they would like them and can show proof they don't fit, as PH7 has From now on, with the large photos id hope, and have advised people to check first.

Ta for clearing that up BM. Its a shame, could be your car was originally destined to be a jap model, but was sent to the UK half way through the build, or as you say, a supply issue with the UK fixings. Well, you cut cut the wires and do some careful soldering to solder the new LED in place I guess, but the bulbs you have wont fit as standard sadly Can refund you the cost of those particular bulbs if youd like.

Yes, I responded to it didn't I (just wanted to make sure...) PH7, weird. Is yours an import or anything? On mine UK 04 plate GT, those bulbs are 29mm festoons. Just popped out to take a look at mine again. Finger over the led so you can see it clearer with the cover on. The blue tool is just stuck in there so it turns out the light.

Thanks Darren. Seems strange that sopmetimes the discs needs re-copying. I burnt them at 2x to minimise burn errors Anyway... SET1 - With AJRFulton (cannot seem to get hold of him) SET2 - With mike89 posting to haynesml SET3 - With Darren-B - Ready To Go SET4 - With steel lynx

3 door Jag looks amazing, doors would be about 8 ft long though! lol

Tadaa http://www.sgs-engineering.com/gas-struts/car-boot-tailgate/nissan/350z

Cabnt give you a concrete answer as I don't have any of my service guides here at work, but from what I know, thw Chassis leg is where the force from the suspension springs go through. My guess is its the piece of metal underneath the little cup that the rear sprint sits in. As for cost and time in getting it fixed, ive no idea. With no technical documents I cant find a part number even so couldn't begin to guess. Strange for it to be damaged though. I don't even know if these are welded to the chassis as standard, may have to come from a breakers. Id give alex a PM mate tbh.

@ Mike89, glad they worked, can you contact and post to haynesml please SET1 - With AJRFulton (cannot seem to get hold of him) SET2 - With mike89 posting to haynesml SET3 - With Darren-B SET4 - With steel lynx

True, I think we all agree that the zed does some damn strange things when the battery voltage goes low, even though the volt meter in the car will show correct volts still.

Key is fine. Remember the door unlocking and NATS coding are two different process's. I have a key that can unlock my doors remotely, but cannot start the car as its not registered with NATS. As long as the security light is flashing when locked. Then you unlock the doors, insert the key into the ignition, turn it to the ON position and the security light goes out, the NATS has authorised the key. That rules out a key failure. Doing this cant harm I suppose, but whats 5 on 10 off supposed to do? Bearing in mind what I said above, IE, if its a NATS failure, 5 of the same erros will just re-force it into Lock Mode. You really need to pull the error codes. It could be absolutely anything, essentially what you have is a non-starting car with nothing directly pointing to a NATS failure. Could be absolutely anything you can imagine at this stage. Coilpacks, battery, MAF sensor, Crank position sensor, the list goes on..

Bingo.

hmm, forum discounts.... It SHOULDNT be a NATS failure, these do happen, but id say are in the minority. Do you have a code scanner? NATS faults should show up as code P1610 &/or P1614. If you see P1614 it indicated the code in the key doesn't match the authorised codes stored in the NATS computer. Easy way to check this is simply slide a key into the ignition. If the red LED in the window goes out, then its a valid and recognised key and should be able to disable the immobiliser. If you see P1610, this is the NATS "Lock Mode". This state is triggered when after 5 "checks" the car doesn't get a proper response from either the ECU or immobiliser (which could indicate a fault here) or if a invalid key is used 5 times to try to start the car. Even if you fix the underlying issue it will not start until its internal timer has expired. If you have another key (maybe the valet key, the one with no buttons), try inserting this, turning the car from off, all the way to cranking the engine and then off again 3 times, on the 4th it should start. After either of the above codes the NATS system needs to read a valid key code 3 times before it will disable the immobiliser and allow the car to start, my guess is this is to stop thieves potentially cycling 1 by 1 through every possible code. Failing that, Horsham Developments can disable the immobiliser permanently for you.