HARMLU

if you're worrying about fuel economy, save yourself the tax and insurance also and buy yourself a micra

Well duh, no road tyres are any good on ice, so the 888s wouldn't be any different Well, duh, I'm pretty sure that -9 deg C would suggest the roads might be icy in the OP's post, otherwise what's the point they're trying to make!? You can now use 888s between 7 deg C and 3 deg C, whoop-ti-doo Actually, you get ice with moisture. If there is no moisture, then there is no ice at sub zero temperatures. This is possible on days when the dew point is is far away from the outside air temperature. In layman's terms, a dry day. However, the colder the surface, the less grip you have. Hope this wasn't too sarcastic

If everything is seated correctly from the outside, then I'm afraid it's take it off and start again. I cannot remember for the life of me what exactly it was but I had the same problem as you after fitting my plenum spacer. I have a feeling it was not connecting the vacuum line back up. With the ecu, do a reset after the problem goes. Good luck!

as above, check for air leaks. Also check that all piping was put back.

hmmmm, I am going to break the mould and say I won't let the gauge drop below 1/4. Reasoning for this is that mine is 9 years old and always a bit wary of having crud at the bottom of the tank. My logic is that you don't save any money playing roulette (and petrol roulette), but potentially you could save wear and tear. I'm not saying in correct but it's just what I do!

as above! Not a difficult job, and very satisfying when you do it yourself!

Love it! When you get it right, you know it. Find it a breeze in the zed too. Some cars you can do it, some you can't. Reduced load on the clutch, uses the engine to brake which means even more braking efficiency, and in theory more mpg! win-win situation!

I've been using 'fully synth' Valvoline until now. Nothing wrong with the oil but I think I will start to use Motul. I understand that the 8100 fully synth 10w30 is the correct one. However I have noticed varients such as c1, c3 etc. Does anyone know the correct one for the zed?

It might be worth having a read through the manual. http://www.350z-uk.c...-roadster-usdm/ I think the section you need is 'ec' - engine control. Might find some info in there edit: or possibly section 'em'

that's for the 'hardware kit' I think

Sure its linked to the same bottle as the fronts, ie there is only 1 bottle. I THINK! Thanks, I do have 2 bottles though. Maybe because of the headlight washers? One either side

C'mon, surely an Airline Pilot can stretch easily to a GTR, what are you doing in a zed?! haha, I do have a rather large training loan still to pay off still! Another 4 years and then it's either a GTR or Nismo 370z. In the meantime I will just enjoy what I do have, and that's a hell of a car! On another note I am contemplating the FI route but a bit worried about ruining the 'driveability' of the car!

First of all thanks for this guide Mack! Took about 30 minutes in total, however I used one of these to blank. A bit over priced (in my opinion) and took me lots of trial and error with the paint but got there in the end! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-350Z-rear-wiper-delete-plug-/321160864442?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac6ade2ba Second of all (as above) I found that the 22mm grommet was better for the washer jet. I turned the one way valve around but would like to disconnect the washer motor. Does anyone know what washer bottle this is on before I start taking the front of the car apart?

airline pilot... have owned the zed for 2 years now and love coming back to drive it every time!

Pure porn!

Hi all. I have been meaning to get this done for some time now but my front wiper arms are flaking and I am looking for recommendations for what to do. See pic (if I can work out how to upload it) I do most things myself but like to stay away from a paint gun! So really just looking for a body shop to do it. Thanks all!

I know I will get slated as it doesn't add any power, but I like it. I have an AEM short ram. Replaced the pop charger which came with car so didn't notice any difference in power (maybe a little more responsive though). Quality is superb, and easy to fit with good instructions. Only mods I have are stainless cat back (custom made so no particular make), H-DEV plenum spacer. Plan (when the current cats get a fault), is to replace with HFC's and get an uprev remap. As you can probably tell I don't like spending money without reason, but I have to say I am pretty chuffed I spent the extra on an aem kit. If it's power you want (please anyone, correct me if I'm wrong), it's a panel filter you want

52 mpg... down hill in 6th gear.... haha In all seriousness though, I got 41 mpg tucking in behind a truck on the motorway over about 100 miles. Just have to offset the fuel against the cost of re-spraying the front bumper!

Don't you mean £168 too expensive!?

Here's a very small YouTube clip. Only mods are Horsham plenum spacer, stainless y-pipe and back box, and aem short ram filter. I just love the sound! http://youtu.be/uMpAr9Y-uYc

I wait until the sun starts to set.... surely that's the obvious answer!?

wonder what the value is for not good condition? £7,999?

go and see it, be wary and ask lots of questions. Could be a good car

I use v-power. This is only because I personally believe the quality of fuel is better quality than the supermarket brands. In reality I would go with rt and as long as it's graded as super it won't do damage.

Lucky you. I'm 30, 13 years ncb & my final 4 payments from changing mid policy are £104 odd!!! Was cheaper when I was younger & wasn't a home owner But it's so worth it! I wouldn't agree there lol. At ten payment that's £1040 to do less than 5000 miles a year which at my age sucks arse massively Good Maths