ilogikal1

Also, you're only ever going to receive mostly positive feebldback in person - no ones going to come up to you and tell you, uninvited, how much they dislike your car are they? Unless you're openly inviting opinions, like here for example, most people who don't like it won't say anything at all.

Cheers for the comments guys Straight swap for theMcLaren, Sarnie? I won't even ask for cash on top, as a favour from me to you

The Z isn't getting used enough to justify keeping it so it's time for a change. The basics; 2005 (October) on a 55 plate, Azure with black leather interior, GT Pack, RAYS alloys, Nismo exhaust from new, *Edit* Now just ticked over 80,000 miles, MOT until November, 4 previous owners. Service history with 12 stamps - all Nissan stamps until my purchase in December 2011; P2 - 61k - January 2012 - Japtech Hull (including spark plugs) P1 - 67k - March 2013 - Nissan Atkin Motor Engineers (forum trader) P2 - 72k - March 2014 - Nissan Atkin Motor Engineers P2 + all other fluids - 76k - March 2015 - Nissan Atkin Motor Engineers P1 - 79k - February 2016 - Kaizer Motor (forum trader) Completely standard except the Z burger badges replaced the Nissan badges, the bonnet struts and the genuine Nismo cat-back exhaust which was fitted from new. Michelin MPSS all round - fronts with ~7mm, rears with ~6mm. Brakes all round - Ferodo DS2500 pads and Black Diamond discs with plenty of life left in them. Wheel alignment last done by Kaizer in February. The battery was also replaced in November after the OEM eventually gave up. Receipts and paperwork for all work done under my ownership. Whilst I have cared for the paintwork meticulously since buying the Z, it is still an 11 year old car so there a number of stone chips and a couple of small dings. The car has recently (April) been polished and coated with Gyeon Mohs, so the paintwork is well protected for the next year or two, however there is a patch of lacquer on the front bumper (detailed picture below). With this as the stone chips, the car would benefit from a front end respray and this is reflected in my asking price. There's plenty of evidence on this forum on how I care for the car, both inside and out, most of which can be found here. I also bought this car from a forum member - see here - and it has largely been garaged during my ownership. The RAYS alloys are still wearing their original paint, however all four could do with refurbishment as the paint has started to flake (a common issue with the OEM finish) and they are kerb damage (I will claim innocence on this, even though you won't believe me, they were like that when I bought the car). The interior is in excellent condition, only minor marking on the door handle really shows its age. There is no wear on the seat bolsters and no marks on the dash. The interior is completely standard except for the genuine cargo net in the boot and the heated seat switches now flank the blanked switch in the centre console - see here - which is where Nissan should have put them in the first place! The previous owner also did the "iPod hack" which is a 3.5mm jack routed through to the centre cubby so the tape deck is essentially an auxiliary for any device with a headphone port. There are no mechanical issues with this car, the only negative points being that aforementioned patch of lacquer peel and the paint on the RAYS. I'm not in any rush to see the car gone, so I may treat the car to a front end respray to address that issue and the stone chips, however the price of the car will then increase accordingly. You're welcome to test drive the car, however proof of insurance will be needed to do so. The car is currently based in Woodford, North East London. Price - £7,000. I will even include the Polished Bliss air freshener in the price. The Nismo exhaust. The lacquer peel on the front bumper However the rest of the paint is in excellent condition.

You're right, that exhaust is definitely on the wonk.

Perhaps I was a bit too vague - I meant that if you do find a remedy, that's the cause that'll need to be addressed as well. I appreciate that's of no use to you right now though. Likely to be new glass, so a couple of hundred per side to get someone like AutoGlass to do it for you I would imagine.

If the scratches are deep enough to catch a nail on, you'll be polishing forever before you get anywhere near making progress. But by all means feel free to try. The damage is caused by the brushes on the mechanism catching dirt and grit by the way, clean those and they'll stop causing any damage for a good few years again.

And then double it again for correction and coating.

It's actually most amusing to see/hear him throw a paddy everytime anyone dares to even try to overtake him. Long may that continue.

I recall he actually reused the turbo that had been in a fire on that Elise. He went to extent of making the charred turbo shiny (on the outside) first though... I have no idea how that ended.

I also remember this from back then. IIRC the "aero" bolted to it was literally home-made and just bolted to it because the owner had seen something used that looked similar rather than because it actually does anything or researched in any form at all; so any aero on that car that's functional is purely by luck rather than design, let alone being beneficial to the aero.

Depends how bad they are and what products you already have. Any compound will tidy them up, but the worse the are the heavier you'll have to go. If they're not too bad a finishing compound by hand will suffice, if they're terrible then you'll need a heavier cutting compound by machine and a doing it in a couple of stages. For truly horrendous clouding you might even need to resort to wet sanding first. As Stu alluded to though, tidying them up is only half the battle, you'll need to seal them again afterwards. I'm currently trying a GTechniq coating on mine so I'll let you know how I get on.

Absolutely, I get your point. The cheaper DA machines are perfectly adequate for the soft Nissan paint. The Audi is the problem with that though. it'll be hard work with the less powerful machines.

That's not what your link is taking me to, it's taking me to the Slim's branded Das-6. No pads, no bag. My point was though that the OP is eying up the Pro, which is quite different to both the basic Das or the Duren. Didn't notice the rolling suggestions at the bottom though, so I've spotted the bundles. They don't appear to do a bundle that's suitable for both Nissan and Audi paint either as far as I could see. The closest so far to that would be the OPs original link despite me preferring Scholl polishes, but as mentioned by some one else (something I forgot to mention) is to add in some spot pads as you'll definitely be wanting those for the Z at least.

That's just the bog standard DAS6, nit the Pro that the OP was looking at. Those machines are quite different from one another. Also, am I missing something but that's just the machine rather than a bundle?

Those two paints could not be more different the Z will be super soft and the Audi will be the complete opposite so you'll need a fair range of pads and compounds. That kit you have linked to will suffice but in my opinion Scholl compounds are better. Sauce - Scholl compounds - S20 Blue and S30+ for a Zed and S3 for the Audi (S20 will most likely do the Audi too). Pads - Lake Country Hydrotech. All three colours, crimson and tangerine for the Z, cyan and Crimson for the Audi.

Scholl S30+. Although I've never used the Sonus polishes, so out of interest when you say it doesn't work as well as the others, in what way? Just out of interest more than anything.

I know, I'm just lazy. I'll try to remember to get more pictures next time.

That is all. For today.

Then some beads happened. Sadly, Stu, these are fake beads. And really these are fake beads on Cure rather than Mohs, but beads happened anyway.

And now, a s**t load of photos. Your interwebs have been warned... Did I mention the shiny, shiny reflections at all? 'Cause the Z's got that. Again. I love it when my arches are still clean too.

... which brings me nicely onto... One shiny arse. And the doors aren't too shabby either. Prep consisted of foam, wash, decontamination, de-tar, clay, 2 stage polish, IPA wipedown and then sealed with Gyeon Q2 Mohs. Not Mohs+. Because + means Phobic, Phobic is certified detailers only. Which I'm neither. Just a fanboy... So, Mohs comes in a fancy looking triangular box that contains an applicator "set" (the aforementioned foam block and 4 suede cloths), 100ml bottle of Cure (with spray head), a bottle of Mohs of your chosen size, a pipette and a disposable respirator (think surgical masks that you've seen people wearing in medical dramas). The bottle of Mohs comes in three sizes; 30ml (for small cars) 50ml (for large cars) and 100ml (for a fleet of cars presumably). I decided that the Z was a small car. I decided this because I didn't use 30ml of Prime on a SEAT Leon. The Leon doesn't look that much smaller than the Z so I took a punt. I turned out to be right. As usual. I have plenty of Mohs left over that I could do another car, that was after doing three coats on the Z. Application is much the same as Prime, the major difference being the amount of solvents in Mohs is much higher than Prime so either use the respirator or make sure you have bloody good ventilation. I used a different, more heavy-weight, reusable respirator whilst doing the Z, except for one section which I remembered I hadn't done a second coat of until I'd taken it off. Being the section closest to the open garage door I figured it'd be alright to do the centre section of the rear bumper without it. It was, I didn't die, my lungs didn't melt, my throat didn't fall out. I did have a stonking headache for the rest of the day though, so I'd recommend using the respirator. Other than that, it's a relatively simple job of wet the applicator - for this you're supposed to use the pipette which replaces the lid of the bottle whilst you're using it, however my bottle of Mohs had a dispenser built in (I don't know if this is a Mohs thing rather than a Prime thing or if Gyeon have replaced their bottles, but Repel was the same as my bottle of Mohs, as such the pipette is unusable even if you wanted to) but the built in dispenser basically means that the liquid can only drip out of the bottle rather than pour out so it's effectively got a built in pipette of sorts - spread the product over the surface and buff within 2-5 minutes. Spreading is simply a case of wiping a line over a section - similar to C5, I went left to right then top to bottom. You're looking at doing one panel at a time before buffing, buffing is easy to get a streak-free finish as you're essentially just spreading the product further but similar to Repel it's best to change the buffing cloth regularly as it becomes saturated with product it'll just smear rather than buff. I found it best to buff the panel, turn/refold the cloth over and give an immediate secondary wipe down and then replace the cloth after you've used both sides of the cloth. I believe the instructions recommend 2 coats, so I did three. You're instructed to leave a minimum of 1 hour between coats, so it's remarkably easy to get a car coated in a single day with multiple layers. You then need to allow 24 hours in the dry and out of direct sunlight (like a garage, for example) to cure sufficiently. You should then add a layer or several of Cure to prevent water-spotting whilst the coating fully cures (which can take 14 days). I added one coat of Cure because I was too lazy to do any more than that, frankly. Plus I'm not a huge fan of using Cure neat. Yep, that's right, a Gyeon product I'm not a fan of! Cure is fine if it's diluted 50:50 but it can be tricky to get a streak free finish using it neat. That said, with good lighting and a methodical enough approach it's perfectly possible. As coatings are similar to paint and need time to cure ("gas out" as it were), it's advisable not to use any detergents on a coating during the first week but the longer you can keep it clean and dry the better - so if you're going away for a couple of weeks and the leaving the car in the garage, do it before you go and it'll be fully cured by time you're back! To be quite honest, I found this an absolute piece of **** to apply, the only thing you need to worry about is making sure the paint is perfect before coating (the difficult bit) and making sure you buff properly to remove. Follow these these two simple rules and you're golden. So with that said, I did **** up one small part where I didn't buff around the door handle properly. Given more time I would have gone back and machine polished the area and started again from scratch, sadly time was against me at this point so I'm just going to have to live with it until I get a chance to break out the polisher again. Despite that; shiny, shiny goodness!

I'll let you know when the cheque clears after the Mohs+ write up.

More to follow later...