ilogikal1

I replied to your message yesterday, I'll re-send it now though.

That s because even Halfords can't get grey primer wrong...

Cheap buckets from anywhere that doesn't sell detailing stuff (Homebase, Wilcos, B&Q, Halfords ) are as good as any. Don't bother with grit guards, they achieve nothing that the tiniest bit of common sense can't achieve.

That shouldn't be a problem. If there's any change I'll try to update this thread asap.

Yep, still available at the moment.

Bank holiday bump. I would like to add that this car has been featured by Polished Bliss... ...They reposted one of my pictures on Instagram That picture is in this thread though, so that counts right?

No worries mate, good luck with your search.

I miased the forst 24 minutes so the forst bit i saw wast the Stars in a shamless plug of tedious nonsense segment. I really hoped theyd bin that. changing the car and course has done nothing to improve that ag all! That said, I'm very undecided still. It was no worse than old Top Gear, but it was no better either I'm not convinced by MLB's character but Evans wasn't terrible.

Oh man. I'd LOVE to. But all my mates are currently doing the baby thing and look down their noses at me for being immature. Often I get "Well maybe you should grow up, Gareth" Maybe you should get some better friends, Gareth.

The prism effect after Exo should clear up a fair bit as the coating cures and the solvents evaporate fully by the way. No photos from me, largely because I'm on my phone at the moment, but my method for moderately deteriorated lights was to use Scholl S20 Blue on a Crimson Lake Country pad by DA to tidy up. Always followed by an IPA wipe down prior to dealing. Sealants that I've used include; - FK1000P, lasts a month or two on headlights but needs to be reapplied regularly to keep further damage at bay. - Hubikote Hubitrim, lasted about 6 months but within a year the headlights were starting to deteriorate again. - whatever wax or sealant was going on the rest of the car, lasted a month tops and needs constant reapplication to top up the protection. Currently using GTechniq C5, applied about 3 weeks ago so I'll update accordingly for as long as I own the car.

I really should start selling products myself. At least that way one of us would benefit from me being such a bad influence.

If it's any conciliation, even I look at some of Ed and Ricey's work with a degree of envy. Even more so when I see Ricey's studio.

You called? Decent reflections there, mate. Good work for a hand job on that super hard German... paint. :lol:

Glad you managed to find a(nother) good one in time for the bank holiday.

I'll take it off your hands for £10. I can't do it for any less than that though.

S3 is too heavy duty for Nissan paint. I wouldn't recommend going with much more cut than S17, but S20 (here) and S30 (here) would be my choices. And these are the pads too. Yes, it's best to apply either a sealant or wax immediately afterwards.

It's a pretty good paper weight. Or shelf filler for Halfrauds. Beyond that... nope, can't think of any use for SRP at all.

Oh no, I agree with you, you can't compare the two. But you can get reasonably good results by hand... You just get better results with a machine.

Yeah, do this. Now who around here is selling one, I wonder...

Polishing by machine isn't entirely necessary, it's just better. The soft paint of Z's will yield far results if you put the effort in by hand but you need some proper compounds and pads to do that. SRP is just full of fillers and will offer absolute minimum cut no matter how you use it, so it'll never correct. Get some Scholl compounds and the Lake Country cutting pads (not the machine pads) and you'll get better results. Get a DA and you'll get even better results still, and quicker, but it's not essential. Like everything it's about using the right products for the job. SRP ain't the right product!!

Start with a pre-wash. Then fallout remover. It'll work out much cheaper that way as you're removing the looser stuff before using the fallout remover to work on the deeper set stuff. Paint on wheels tends to be quite hard wearing though as a rule so don't over think it too much, just get as much dirt and grit off before touching the surface as possible. Also Rim Wax is s**t, use literally anything else. there's a head to head test in my thread that Rim Wax lost by a millionty miles. A coating is by far the best option though.

To clarify - compound by machine, LSP by hand. To clarify the clarification, polish and correct the paint using a machine. Wax/sealant/coating without.

With my luck, I'd end up being the guy lumbered with the trike.

No, no, no. Dubai do it properly;

Dual Action. A machine polisher that oscillates rather than just rotates (which would be known as rotary). Not the cheapest way to polish your headlights if you don't already have one though...