ilogikal1

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/68095-azure-blye-04-350z-nismo-gt-mods-uprev/

Admiral refused to insure me this year because of the Nismo exhaust. They insured me last year with the same exhaust declared though. Much like the premium, it seems to depend on what day of the week it is when you call...

Yes, it's just the same as Iron X in terms of use.

Looks great.

I use Wolf's Decon rather than Iron X which is £10 for a litre where I get it from - Envy also sell it at a similar price pre forum discount so it might be worth dropping Tim a PM. I've tried Wolf's back to back with Iron X on my wheels - I did one with Wolf's and one with Iron X, then did a second hit swapping them over - and found no discernible difference between them in terms of performance (neither second hit produced any significant bleeding).

http://bit.ly/ZaOcH5 Also a trader on here; http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/138-driftworks/

No, especially if it's diluted. It will strip any wax/sealant on the paintwork though.

How would that work on a combine harvester? They go on the road and they don't put there plate on the furthest front point of the vehicle!. Cops would get dizzy trying to look for it! See point 8 on page six of the link I posted. "Agricultural machines" (along with road rollers and work trucks) differ slightly to other vehicles - essentially so long as it's visible from the front and is as vertical as possible, it's fine.

http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2001/561/pdfs/uksi_20010561_en.pdf Page 6. So long as it's vertical and in plainly visible, you shouldn't have any issues.

Polished Bliss are doing a 3 for 2 offer on Auto Finesse at the moment, so it's the perfect excuse to try it.

It depends how deep the scratches are, if you can feel them with your finger nail then it's too deep to polish out. However, if it's anything like my previous car which is quite common with frameless windows, they're caused by the winding mechanism (the brushes get clogged up with crap and scratch the glass every time you wind the window up or down - I'm assuming it's pretty much the height of the window, from the very bottom to a couple of inches from the top and about an inch or so wide?) so the scratches unlikely to be that deep, but they will come back if you don't clean the brushes too, which is a door card off job). To polish them out you'll ideally need a machine polisher, rayon or felt pads and cerium oxide. It's quite a messy process, so cover any trim/paintwork. Work in small areas and keep the area wet otherwise you'll do more damage. Be warned though, it'll take a fair bit of time. There are some kits designed specifically for this - CarPro Ceri Glass comes to mind but I've never used that but there's a very good review here; http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=243434

I've fixed that.

Just the fairy lights then...

Put some fairy lights in with it. And the spoon for good measure.

Cheap option would be APC sprayed on, agitated (call it some names or something) then wipe down/rinse. Any APC will do, Tesco's is 69p from memory.

Curses, I was out when the postman came today so I have to wait until tomorrow before I can pick it up. I did wonder what the RM card was for though, I thought I'd forgotten about something that I had bought.

Worst case scenario is that the wax won't last quite as long once on the car and you're possibly wasting a bit of cleanser - but as mentioned it depends on what polish you're using and how you're using it. It seems to be fairly popular over on Detailing World so people do use it. I've found that it varies massively depending on which formula it is (which can be difficult to determine from the bottle) that I just can't rely on it to do what I want/expect it to from one bottle to the next. I do still have a bottle of it knocking around but I now only use it as a last resort when everything else has run out.

There's often a massive blind spot that close to a cab that's high up. There's a fair chance the truck driver wouldn't have known anything about the car being there until the contact.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Atkin-Motor-Engineers/189791511118691?group_id=0

Cleanse after the polish - I would add in a decon. stage though. AG Cleanse will remove the oils left by the polish ready for the wax, you'll see no benefit of using it before the polish which would remove the base left by the cleanse. I tend to; snow foam, rinse, wash, rinse, clay, decontaminate (Wolfs Decon/Iron X/etc), rinse, dry, polish, cleanse, wax.

No. Buy it. Buy it now. Right now. This very instant. Buy it. Buy it. Buy it. Have you bought it yet? Then buy it now.

Or, ignore me altogether and take Dodo Juice's advice from here http://www.detailingworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=260081

I wouldn't melt it myself, mainly because it's a hybrid wax. Most waxes require a specific cooling routine to get the correct texture and consistency too. Certainly don't microwave it, hot solvents in a confined space is likely to end badly! A hot, dry spoon or knife should do the trick though. The best way would be when you next plan to use it, scrape it out and re-mould it with your hands using the excess on the car when you're done (thus no wastage).

You, sir, are a true gent.

Only three more weeks to wait... http://www.webcountd...=54kOEY2&k=ubyx :lol: