ilogikal1

There's a few reviews of this from America, general consensus is that it's similar to clear plasti-dip but with a much better finish. It'll offer a little protection against stone chips, but not as much as traditional clear films would (3M quote 80%, reviews think that's a bit generous as this goes on quite thin). There's a number of reviews on AutoGeek if you're interested.

Polish - I use, and would recommend, Menz 203S & 85RE. Wax - of durability is your main requirement, you're better off with a nano or glass sealant (12-24 months), G-Techniq would currently be my choice for this. If you specifically want wax then FK1000P is a hybrid but very durable one (6 months). All in one - Werkstat Prime (either Acrylic if going sealant or Carnuba for waxes on top should you so wish). Both variations of this work best when used with the full kit though, i.e. the respective Trigger & Glos, however both 'systems' are incredibly easy to use and will give 3-5months protection depending on how many layers you do. As for being able to use in direct sunlight - anything Poorboys is great for this, but the waxes will only give 2-3 months protection and EX/EX-P up to about 4 months realistically.

Some of my detailing products get tested on various household objects, I think everything in my bathroom is wearing something or other from my excessive collection of products, my laptop gets treated to waxes fairly regularly too. So on the bright side, you're not alone. There's so much in this month's Waxybox, I'm having trouble getting it all back in the box after opening it! The #008 wax (rather than the Candy Gloss) looks and smells very much like Red Natty's wax (which isn't a bad thing). That'll be going on the laptop shortly... The wheels look good Rob, I'm really liking them.

All variations of the DAS-6 come with both handles which are interchangeable. I suspect others probably will do as well, but can't confirm that.

Yes, Power Plus & Pro are the same machine. I got this kit (with the standard DAS-6) which works well on Nissan paint; http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb-soft-paint-polishing-kit-cat1.html

Pain has become my go-to glass cleaner too, I'll be ordering a proper sized bottle with my next Waxybox. I didn't get the tyre conditioner but I did get the trim sealant instead which I'm quite impressed with so far - it's just a case of durability now. With regards to the headline product...

I'm sure we can let you know what you're missing.

A minor update, just in case anyone else is interested, as mentioned above I've got a few tests going on with LSPs at the moment and it's raining which is all the excuse I need for some beading pic-whoring. PB Natty's setting the beading bar; C2 doing it's thing well; Waxybox #007 Wax (April's) in action, also doing well; Dr Beasley's working well on this trim; And working well over here too (apart from that small patch which will have to be addressed); PB Wheel Sealant on the spoiler; Which isn't too bad for beading, except... So not terribly great in places either. Which will bother me. Because I'm sad like that. So, I'm devising an amendment to this test for the next wash... I know, it's all terribly exciting isn't it. Anyway, here's some more gratuitous beading shots;

As I recall, they have to allow the 14 day cooling off period to pass before they can take payment on automatic renewals, although I could be wrong on that.

I should add that Avalanche is actually citrus based too - it's essentially the snow foam version of Citrus Power.

Yep, top up with warm water (I usually top up to about 2/3rds-ish of the bottle). There's no harm in adding a citrus degreaser either. However if you're using Avalanche it's not really needed - also, depending on what you're using it may strip or weaken any wax on the car. I find with Avalanche I don't need to add either shampoo or degreaser though so you might want to play around with what works best for you. Lime Prime is a pretty good pre-wax cleaner - I've not used Lite but it's the same stuff without the abrasives - so it's a good step to add between the wash and the wax stages.

I figured I'd join in, whilst it's clean.

Cheers for the comments guys. Erm... no, I didn't. I actually had to tackle that with the Dremel this time time though, just forgot to mention that, and the quick clean & dress of the engine bay too. It will only see this sort of treatment twice a year usually when I switch between a sealant for winter and wax for summer. My regular wash routine is considerably more straightforward.

I've just polished mine (see my thread here) using Menz 203S & 85RE on Lake Country Constant Pressure orange and green pads respectively. I'd suggest starting with 85RE on the green pad (I believe the white is a finishing pad isn't it? The green is a light cut, the orange slightly more cut) to see how that works for you - you might want to start with SRP, but personally I think that has more fillers and little-to-no cut.

It's been a long day and I pressed the wrong button, but I've fixed the post now... hopefully

I figured seeing as I comment on a lot of detailing threads I should probably put my money where my mouth is, so have some pictures (after a lot of text, which you're welcome to skip, because there's a lot of it... sorry about that). Thanks to Waxybox and some Easter sales, I had a few products to play with and wanted to change from the sealant that was on it back to a wax for summer, no during photos because I couldn't be bothered frankly, but my process was as follows; Snow foam using Purple Magifoam, rinse followed by a second hit with the Magifoam, Whilst the second foam was dwelling I did the badges, petrol cap, etc with a Valet Pro brush and some APC. I then foamed again using Tesco's own APC followed by a rinse. Two bucket wash with Britemax Cleanmax followed by a rinse. I would normally dry at this point, but the car was in the sun and I wasn't bothered about the usual water spots this time so I sat on my a*se for five minutes instead. De-tarred with Tardis followed by a rinse. Decon with Wolf's Decon Gel followed by yet another rinse. I then clayed, starting off with the Waxybox clay & lube which I didn't get along with so I reverted back to my usual Dodo Juice Supernatural clay with a shampoo mix. A quick wipedown using just a washmit and the hose then allowed to dry in the sun again. Then I moved into the garage and taped up ready for polish. At this point I tried Waxybox's April wax on one wing mirror and the C2V3 on top and on the other mirror. After trying a few combinations with my DAS6, I eventually settled on Menz 203S on an orange Lake Country Constant Pressure pad until I was happy with the swirl removal. This was followed by Menz 85RE on a green LC CP pad to refine. Two coats of Poorboys Blackhole, the first applied by machine on a Black LC Finishing pad, the second by hand to make sure I got all the little nooks that I probably missed with the machine. This was followed by a coat of Poorboys White Natty's Paste Wax everywhere except the rear spoiler (which I'll come to shortly) and the wing mirrors as previously explained. Roughly 36 hours after the first coat, I applied a coat of PB Blue Natty's Paste Wax to the same areas. In the mean time, the wheels were removed, treated the Tardis and Decon Gel treatment then cleaned with Juicy Details Mint Wheels followed by a normal wash with Poorboys Super Slick and Suds and dried. I had intended to treat them to a clay and cleanse with Wersktat Acrylic Prime but the sheer amounts of stone chips on the inside of the wheels and the corrosion expanding I've decided I'm likely to replace or refurb them fairly soon instead, so didn't bother. So at this point I decided to seal them and stick them back on the car for now... I did take the opportunity to do a little test though, so the first wheel was sealed with Poorboys Wheel Sealant, the second wheel was sealed with Smartwax Rim Wax, the third was supposed to be sealed with something else but my sample has been delayed so this one and the fourth were left unsealed and will now both serve as the control wheels. The tyres were all dressed with Megs Endurance Gel. The trim dressed with Auto Finesse Revive followed by some extra protection in the form Dr Beasley's Trim Sealant from Waxybox. Exhaust polished was with wire wool and Megs NXT All Metal Polysh. Rubber was dressed with Einszett Gummi Pflege. Glass cleaned with AutoBrite Direct Hell Shine Pain. The interior had been done recently, so only needed a quick vacuum and dust down really. All in all, it took me closing in on 40 hours of work over about two weeks - although I should mention there was a portion of that which was spent waiting for supplies as I ran out of some stuff halfway through and I was then working around work and what passes for my life. So, on with the pictures then. Before; Some considerable time later & after; Now, the rear spoiler was used as another testbed area. Every time there's a "what wax for my wheels" type question FK1000P is brought up as useful for wheels and paintwork I decided to try Poorboys Wheel Sealant on the paint. So the spoiler got treated to that... it's not bad in terms shine, it'll be interesting (to me) to see how it lasts on the paint compared to the wheel it's also protecting.

The standard "foam bottles" that come with most pressure washers are crap for actual foaming duties - they can be quite handy for other things but nothing beats a proper foam lance. Don't expect super thick foam from Avalanche (it does still foam quite well but I've never got a shaving foam consistency with it).

Then allow me; no. I'm guessing this won't satisfy you either though as I'm not a mod...

Fixed that for you.

Yeah, but what about cleaning the car?

If the foam's not sticking, the dirt won't stick much either. It's the same with mine, in that the LSP prevents the longer dwell times that some people get, but with the right foam it still removes a good amount of dirt - it does vary quite a lot between different foams though. The only thing you can really do about it is give it a second hit of foam. I've found better results from rinsing between snow foams when I've felt the need to give it a second hit rather than just 'topping up' (as it were) the foam on the car without rinsing.

A timely bank holiday weekend deal at Screwfix; http://www.screwfix.com/p/nilfisk-c120-3-6-120bar-pressure-washer-with-trolley-230v/56192.

"Also, this has only been tested on average adults.. I'm 5-4 and she's 5-6." That's average? Useless guide! That's the average waist size in America these days...

A good snow foam, left to dwell for long enough, will also soften the more baked on grime making it easier to remove with a pressure washer leaving less muck on the car for the actual wash stage. Not to mention that I would prefer to remove as much dirt as possible before touching the paint at all. And as you can make roughly 2000 litres for about £30, it really isn't that expensive.