ilogikal1

At least you're not the only one to have overlooked the switch then. You're welcome.

Oh god.... I hadn't even noticed that switch. They must've knocked it when doing the tint yesterday. Lets just not tell anyone about this okay? Don't worry, I won't tell anyone. On the bright side (I'm not even sorry about that pun), it's a cheap and easy fix.

Is the switch still set to "door" rather than "off"?

If you're looking for snow foams to try, there's a Magifoam group buy going on over on DW at the moment. It foams ridiculously well (better than Avalanche) but it lacks a bit of cleaning power compared to Avalanche. Megs Hyperwash is similar to Magifoam too and worth looking at, but I keep going back to Avalanche myself. Kyle, it's more likely to be the lance. The standard Karcher (and Nilfisk) bottle(s) don't contain a gauze so they can't produce the same foam effect as a proper snow foam lance.

Tardis for the tar spots. Get some pictures up of the splodges if the paint cleaner doesn't shift them (if it's just something left on the surface, the Megs should shift it though) and I'm sure someone will be able to help.

Snow foam isn't meant to be an alternative to washing; get as much off with the snow foam & pressure washer as you can, then get the buckets & wash mitt out.

Clicky. They're not the best quality cloths that I have, but they're good for more general use and at 31p per cloth they can be disposable.

Well spotted We also managed to turn his 100,000 mile 2003 JDM Into a 25,000 mile UK GT Spec I'll upload some pics for you all now You even changed is windscreen wipers for him.

There's a few reviews of this from America, general consensus is that it's similar to clear plasti-dip but with a much better finish. It'll offer a little protection against stone chips, but not as much as traditional clear films would (3M quote 80%, reviews think that's a bit generous as this goes on quite thin). There's a number of reviews on AutoGeek if you're interested.

Polish - I use, and would recommend, Menz 203S & 85RE. Wax - of durability is your main requirement, you're better off with a nano or glass sealant (12-24 months), G-Techniq would currently be my choice for this. If you specifically want wax then FK1000P is a hybrid but very durable one (6 months). All in one - Werkstat Prime (either Acrylic if going sealant or Carnuba for waxes on top should you so wish). Both variations of this work best when used with the full kit though, i.e. the respective Trigger & Glos, however both 'systems' are incredibly easy to use and will give 3-5months protection depending on how many layers you do. As for being able to use in direct sunlight - anything Poorboys is great for this, but the waxes will only give 2-3 months protection and EX/EX-P up to about 4 months realistically.

Some of my detailing products get tested on various household objects, I think everything in my bathroom is wearing something or other from my excessive collection of products, my laptop gets treated to waxes fairly regularly too. So on the bright side, you're not alone. There's so much in this month's Waxybox, I'm having trouble getting it all back in the box after opening it! The #008 wax (rather than the Candy Gloss) looks and smells very much like Red Natty's wax (which isn't a bad thing). That'll be going on the laptop shortly... The wheels look good Rob, I'm really liking them.

All variations of the DAS-6 come with both handles which are interchangeable. I suspect others probably will do as well, but can't confirm that.

Yes, Power Plus & Pro are the same machine. I got this kit (with the standard DAS-6) which works well on Nissan paint; http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb-soft-paint-polishing-kit-cat1.html

Pain has become my go-to glass cleaner too, I'll be ordering a proper sized bottle with my next Waxybox. I didn't get the tyre conditioner but I did get the trim sealant instead which I'm quite impressed with so far - it's just a case of durability now. With regards to the headline product...

I'm sure we can let you know what you're missing.

A minor update, just in case anyone else is interested, as mentioned above I've got a few tests going on with LSPs at the moment and it's raining which is all the excuse I need for some beading pic-whoring. PB Natty's setting the beading bar; C2 doing it's thing well; Waxybox #007 Wax (April's) in action, also doing well; Dr Beasley's working well on this trim; And working well over here too (apart from that small patch which will have to be addressed); PB Wheel Sealant on the spoiler; Which isn't too bad for beading, except... So not terribly great in places either. Which will bother me. Because I'm sad like that. So, I'm devising an amendment to this test for the next wash... I know, it's all terribly exciting isn't it. Anyway, here's some more gratuitous beading shots;

As I recall, they have to allow the 14 day cooling off period to pass before they can take payment on automatic renewals, although I could be wrong on that.

I should add that Avalanche is actually citrus based too - it's essentially the snow foam version of Citrus Power.

Yep, top up with warm water (I usually top up to about 2/3rds-ish of the bottle). There's no harm in adding a citrus degreaser either. However if you're using Avalanche it's not really needed - also, depending on what you're using it may strip or weaken any wax on the car. I find with Avalanche I don't need to add either shampoo or degreaser though so you might want to play around with what works best for you. Lime Prime is a pretty good pre-wax cleaner - I've not used Lite but it's the same stuff without the abrasives - so it's a good step to add between the wash and the wax stages.

I figured I'd join in, whilst it's clean.

Cheers for the comments guys. Erm... no, I didn't. I actually had to tackle that with the Dremel this time time though, just forgot to mention that, and the quick clean & dress of the engine bay too. It will only see this sort of treatment twice a year usually when I switch between a sealant for winter and wax for summer. My regular wash routine is considerably more straightforward.

I've just polished mine (see my thread here) using Menz 203S & 85RE on Lake Country Constant Pressure orange and green pads respectively. I'd suggest starting with 85RE on the green pad (I believe the white is a finishing pad isn't it? The green is a light cut, the orange slightly more cut) to see how that works for you - you might want to start with SRP, but personally I think that has more fillers and little-to-no cut.

It's been a long day and I pressed the wrong button, but I've fixed the post now... hopefully