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ilogikal1

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Everything posted by ilogikal1

  1. I used to be a regular at the Ketch meets but that was with the HJC (which is no more sadly) side of it rather than Nippon Squad so I've so no idea if they still meet up down there. I wouldn't have thought they'd be using Ketch at the moment if they do still meet though, with the roadworks on the A164.
  2. I usually just go for what's cheapest at the supermarket - I'm currently working through my stockpile of Tesco's own which at 69p per litre cost me less for 5 litres than just the shipping cost of the Megs stuff.
  3. Although if you do get a build up and find you're losing foaming performance (it's usually because the gauze needs cleaning) just run some APC through it (whilst doing the arches as stated before). Easier than taking it apart to clean.
  4. Unless using it in the sun, then rinse off before it dries.
  5. I got the same trim dressing rather than the tyre gel too. I believe there are minor differences in some of the boxes from time to time.
  6. The other alternative is a waterless wash - ONR is a popular choice.
  7. I shifted most of them yesterday during the polishing stage. I've still got more polishing to do because my back decided it had, had enough yesterday so I'll just attack them with the DA again. Sealant is usually a last stage product - usually in place of wax, but some (like C2) can be used either on top or under. When it's used in place of wax, it'll give a slightly different finish (in terms of glossiness/beading/etc - which is why some people use wax as well) but will provide superior durability. When a wax is used on top on a sealant it's usually to get the finish of the wax but with the more durable product still protecting the paint when the wax fails (the wax will usually fail sooner in this case as it's tried to bond to the sealant rather than the paintwork). It's usually a case that the wax is a sacrificial layer in this case. Some sealants can also be used on top of wax, which is the same theory as the wax-on-top scenario, except the sealant loses some/much of it's durability as it's trying to bond to the wax rather than the paint, and becomes the sacrificial layer. Depending on how hard you worked the Hubikote when polishing and condition/age of the existing wax, you may have stripped some/all of the existing wax from your paint, so the C2 may have had a better bond to the bare paint or to the existing wax but either way it should take more than a bit of buffing to strip it off C2 if it's bonded well.
  8. As promised, I tried mine this weekend both on top of wax and on bare paintwork although it may not count for much because I didn't use a great deal of it (I intend to stick with wax for summer and use C2 for my winter protection this year), my conclusion is - as Downhuman suggests it doesn't seem to play well with wax. It went on the bare paint perfectly well with no streaking at all, however there was was noticeable streaking when applied over the wax. It did occur to me that it may be an over-application issue, so I tested this too on wing mirrors by spraying onto a microfibre and wiping over the bare paint first (with no streaking) then wiping over another wing mirror with a layer of wax on without spraying any more on the microfibre and it still left streaking. The good news is that on both streaky applications were easily resolved with a quick buff using a damp microfibre. I also used the Britemax CleanMax which I found to be very good; lovely and slick, exactly what you need from a shampoo and good cleaning ability too. I may replace my usual Slick & Suds with this when I've run out as it's the first shampoo I've used that's as good. The Hubikote Restore polish is okay. It has slightly more cut that 85RE so it's definitely a finishing polish. It leaves a good enough finish but I don't think it'll be replacing my Menz polish, it's a lot more runny and can be a bit difficult to buff - especially when over-applied, which is easy to do given how runny it is. I tried it both by hand and by machine, I was left underwhelmed by hand. It was better by machine but requires more working than 85RE as isn't as easy to buff. I didn't experience any dusting at all though (even when over-applied), which did impress me. I also had another bash at last month's clay & lube now that it's a bit warmer too. The cay itself was okay (despite getting VERY sticky when it got too warm!), the lube however left me with very mixed feelings still - use too much and it seems to deteriorate the clay (more-so with the Dodo Juice clay I also tried with it) and the usual issues of not using enough, I found it very difficult to get the right balance.
  9. Fixed that for you.
  10. I usually have sealant on mine, but I do occasionally add a layer of wax too.
  11. SRP doesn't have much cut to it so I wouldn't expect that to do much at all. I'd give Plastx or Ultimate Compound a go.
  12. As Ekona says, polishing them out with a DA would be the best way - Megs Plastx might be worth a try (I've never used it so I've no idea what it's actually like). You might have some luck by hand but it'll be a fair bit of work I would have thought. The other options being something with a lot of fillers (Black Hole, for example) to mask it but that would be a very short term solution and would need re-doing regularly or, as already mentioned, wrapping/replacing them.
  13. Yep, use it sparingly - the aim is to get a thin, even layer rather than just slapping it on. As a conservative guestimate I think I could get 4 full applications out of the pot. For reference, this is what I had left of the last pot after I did the bonnet and on a front wing; Plenty left to do the rest of the car.
  14. Judging by the last pot which was the same size, the wax will be sufficient to do a full car numerous times over.
  15. Cheers. I've just been reading up on it here which suggests a damp microfibre should fix any smears. It shouldn't matter, as it's usually laid on C1, but I intend to try it out this weekend, so I'll try it in top of the existing wax (Natty's White, Red and Blue - I couldn't decide which use so layered them all ), I'll also strip a panel or two and apply straight to the paint and report back in due course.
  16. Is that the GTechniq? Out of interest, did you spray onto the panel then wipe (as the bottle suggests) or spray onto a microfibre and wipe? I was looking forward to trying that until I read this.
  17. No, if you ordered the monthly box you'll get the one. You need to re-order each month that you want one.
  18. Here you go (hidden in case anyone still waiting doesn't want to know what's in it yet).
  19. I did, ph 7, but it doesn't mention the applicators (I'll get a pic of it up later for you). The black applicator is for tyre dressing though and they're also available from the Waxyshop.
  20. Mine arrived today and very impressed with the contents I am, too.
  21. Or simply get any one of the multitude of in-line filters available and use that for the final rinse.
  22. Mine didn't arrive today (I knew I shouldn't have been to tight to pay for postage ), so hopefully tomorrow. If not, I'm going to sulk!
  23. That. Try claying first, depending on which clay you've got (and how aggressive it is) it should shift overspray.
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