ilogikal1

Turn the traction control off and use the loud pedal properly.

True

I wouldn't... I'd use a blue marker for mine.

Or, gaffa tape and a black marker pen would cheaper.

Firstly, you'll be limited in the finish you can get by hand because it's difficult to get any real correction without a machine, however you can still get a decent finish by hand. Start by ditching the T-Cut for some proper polish - I recommend Menz Super Finish (85RE/SF4000) which can be worked well by hand, although I'm sure others will have their own preferences. Also I'd recommend a glaze before the wax, either Poorboys Black Hole or White Diamond depending on the colour of your car (I'm assuming it's the red one in your avatar?). I'd say that's the minimum to get a decent finish, but there's a number of other steps you could add to improve on this depending on how deep your pockets are...

It best be rubbish then.

I had assumed it's a new product line for one of the existing feature brands, or at a push a new brand yet to be announced. I also assume we'll find out what the product is later on in the month or at some point when they've gathered enough feedback.

The smell only lasts for about 11 seconds anyway...

It could well be. It does smell like another product I've used a while ago too, but I just can't place it. Yeah, the wax this month is still solid which is an improvement over the last one! Good job too, my laptop hasn't been waxed for weeks now.

Yeah, I got my box yesterday (very impressed, again), not worked out what the mystery product is yet though. I've actually been trying to work out what the smell reminds me of as much as identifying the product itself. I am looking forward to trying that in particular though.

I had assumed it's a small applicator pad, for those tiny, little, awkward places you can't usually get to with a normal size applicator. The real question is, what's the mystery product?

That. Most, or at least a fair number, of the FK range claims to be anti-static - as do a few others - which is supposed to prevent more dust from settling. And FK425 is very good.

There's plenty of options, take your pick; http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/aqua-gleam-350-mm-de-ionising-water-filters-cat5.html (the one mentioned above, but cheaper) http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/race-glaze/400-litre-0ppm-car-washing-filter/ http://www.waterspot-filters.co.uk/#/purchase/4557532877 Or, as also mentioned above, open ended hose, towel dry and/or drying aid for an even cheaper option.

You'll definitely need some protection on it. The yellowing is caused by UV damage, the lights have a protective layer on from the factory which naturally breaks down over time anyway, but anything that was left has now been removed with the sanding. Most waxes and sealants will offer adequate protection, but obviously wax will need topping up or re-applying more often than a sealant - what LSP do you use on the paint? That should be okay to use and just include the headlights whenever you do the paintwork in future.

Yep, Tardis will remove it quickly... whether you want it to or not as I found out once!

I know you said you're happy with your current pads (I don't blame you, I'm a big fan of those pads myself) but have tried or considered the LC Hydro-Tech pads? They're better suited for hard paint and they're still LC pads. And as above, a rotary would be more suitable for this too.

If it makes you feel any better, my other half couldn't figure out how to get it back in despite taking it out moments before. She felt like an idiot when I showed her how to do it. And just to pre-empt those on here; yes, yes I am aware of the numerous double entendres. I'm also aware she actually is an idiot purely for her taste in men, I've informed her of this but she thought I was joking or something.

Strange, I would have expected it to be the other way around.

As the sun decided to take the weekend off I gave the car another clean today so there's a few updates to report. As this post was longer than I intended it to be, so here's a short version; PB Wheel Sealant; lasts about 2 months. Sonax QD; just don't bother. Prima Slick; I approve. G5 or PIAA; G5 currently has the upper hand... whilst it hasn't rained Nanolex Trim Rejuvenater and C2; going strong still. And for anyone who can be arsed to read it, the longer version; The PB Wheel Sealant is starting to fail now, both on the spoiler and on the wheel. - the latter required some agitation with a detailing brush to clean completely rather than just the pressure washer. I had another play around with the Sonax QD and found it works best by spraying onto a microfibre and spreading rather than spraying directly onto the paint. Better still if the paint is still wet too as it seems to stop it from being too grabby. It was still very streaky regardless of how I used it, but I found the longer you leave it the easier it is to buff. I've decided it's not really worth the effort on the Z and I probably won't buy it again - it's currently being demoted to wheels and bathroom duties. Also, the Sonax wasted my snow foam... it just would not stick long enough to dwell. I did also try Prima Slick from one of the Waxyboxes, which I quite liked. It added the slick finish back which the Sonax removes and did a much better job of removing the fresh water spots that the Sonax just didn't touch. Rob, the G5 is still going strong. There's a noticeable difference now between that and the PIAA - there was only a few drops of water left on the G5 treated glass by the time I'd gone to fetch my drying towel, whereas the PIAA still had more water on but woth both the snow foam and the rinse there wasn't much difference in the sheeting between the two - if anything the G5 sheeted slightly quicker but it was marginal. There's no noticeable difference on the windscreen between the wiped & non-wiped areas, so it seems to be holding up well there. I also didn't need to use a glass cleaner - the few bug splatters that had stuck were easily removed with a snow foam and/or pressure washer rinse. Although it should be noted that the PIAA is still working, it's just dropped off slightly - to be honest, I probably wouldn't have noticed that much if wasn't side-by-side with the G5 - and due to the lack of rain recently, this is just when the car was washed, and thus stationary. I'll let you know of any differences on the road when the rain arrives (let's be honest, it's only a matter of time! ) So in summary, there's not a lot between the two when they're first applied, but G5 seems to perform that bit better for longer. Oh, and in the name of fairness, both PIAA and G5 wasted my snow foam too. The Nanolex is showing no signs of giving up yet, neither is the C2. I'm particularly impressed with the Nanolex, the trim hasn't shown any sings of fading at all (although it wasn't actually that bad to begin with) and it's still beading water exceptionally well. The C2 continues to live upto my expectations, beading well and still looks great, considering it's not even been topped-up with anything at all for two months now. For my next test I'm thinking of putting the Sonax QD up against the PB Wheel Sealant, FK1000P & Chemical Guys Wheel Guard (if my sample ever shows up) on the wheels, however I've decided on C5 when they've been refurbed so that'll depend on when the refurb is likely to occur.

Good work.

You probably shouldn't look at the price of SV Crystal Rock then... let alone their expensive waxes!

Natty's blue on top of Black Hole gives a great finish. I've seen great glossy finish with Blackfire Midnight Sun on black paint too. And Raceglaze Signature Black Label gives a great wet look. It depends on your budget.

I generally don't. I stick it in the garage until my drive is in the shade and it'll get washed then. Fixed that for you.

Fair enough. Then, yes, it would appear so.

Yep, you can have whatever you like. Whether you can legally display them on a car is another matter though.