ilogikal1

Fixed that for you.

As above, it's normal. Most of the fallout removers smelt similarly awful until fairly recently. There's a few on the market now that don't smell as strong (but still not particularly pleasant if you stick your nose in the bottle and get a good whiff), and Iron-X is also now available with a "lemon scent" which is supposed to be a neutral scent rather than eggy (or lemon!) but with the same performance of the original - I say "supposed to be" because I've not tried it myself yet.

Try a decent wax instead. I love the finish that both White Diamond and Black Hole give, but being a glaze if there's not a wax or sealant over it, it'll just wash off instantly. To the OP; That. The finish will only be as good as the prep. Depends on your budget and how much work you're willing to put into it?

Taking into account the whole black and gold colour scheme, I'd say closer to £3...

Only way to be absolutely sure would be to take the seat in question with you when you test drive a Z.

5 minutes with a hair dryer before setting off should do it...

A maintenance wash, anything up to about 4 hours for me (not including the interior). A full detail though... Ahem... er, yeah, I might have done that before too...

As above, EX-P is a decent enough sealant for the price but does need to be layered to get any real durability out of it. I find it works better when applied by machine and it's one of the easier sealants of it's type to use being a Poorboys product, but compared to modern WOWO/A products that are abundantly available it is a lot more effort for no gain. Oh, and it doesn't last very long on wheels either, by the way.

There's just no pleasing some people...

Not really as you can use the A/c on hot or cold. I usually have mine set at 25 and it warms up pretty quick tbh. I have mine set on 32 without the AC on, and fully on front windscreen when its fogged up... that's correct right? No, stick the A/C on which acts as a dehumidifier, so it'll clear the windscreen quicker. Direction and heat is up to you though. Edited to add; or what he said ^. Curse my slow typing!

I can't argue with that. I can confirm though (after having to check the price ) that you can in fact get 5 (and three quarters) of the sample size for that £23. Which equates to about 300g. Which will also be enough to outlast the C5. So technically...

Use what's left on the exterior plastic trim, C5 is the same as C4 (and C1). Of the sample size perhaps. C4/5 is £23 for 15ml whereas 1000P is £19 for 400g, so not quite 4 or 5 tins... ... however, even if you reapply 1000P every month, that 400g will outlast the C5 so I see your point.

Don't Jaaaaaags come with heated side windows for that very reason?

I did mean to add "so what's the point" at the end of my last post but I think I got distracted. Probably by something shiny.

Doesn't have to be G4, but the screen needs to be completely clean and bare for the G1 to bond fully - the Megs will be fine but aferwards I'd do an IPA wipe-down before the G1 to be sure.

Or, if you're tight, you can buy a "sample size" for a few quid... no shark on that tin though.

I bought the PB Soft Paint kit (with the DAS-6) and it's been ideal for the Z's paint... In fact I still use it. I'd recommend chucking in a black glazing pad if you're likely to be adding glazes, sealants or waxes by machine - I've also got the yellow last step pad too but I've found I tend to only use the black pad instead. I'd also recommend chucking in the other Flexipads backing plate too, as I've found they do make a difference (you'll be all right with the standard backing plate, I just find these better). Other than that, it's a great kit and offers plenty of correction for the soft Nissan paint. The pads and backing plates are interchangeable to a degree - neither will fit the Rupes machines for example, and I don't think the backing plate will fit the Flex machines but the pads do (I think... maybe... helpful, I know!) but both will fit the Megs and the Das-6 Pro, for example.

Also check it's not the floor mat, mine's been moved backwards with people getting in/out before which was enough to disturb the connection under the seat and trigger the warning light.

Leather was part of the GT spec. IIRC Nowhereboy's isn't a GT either and as he mentioned above his was up for £5800 with less miles on.

Is this a GT though? There's nothing in the description to suggest that it is, there's no pictures of the interior and I can't even make out if the seats are leather or not from those "arty" (read on the p*ss) photos.

Wheel woolies and normal car shampoo, I've never really needed anything stronger except for badly neglected wheels that have years worth of baked on brake dust. Once they're clean, seal them with a decent coating and you shouldn't need anything more than a pressure washer to clean them again.

Yeah, I generally take manufacturers claims of longevity with a pinch of salt, which is why I like to try things for myself. I take much more stock in other people's reports of what they've actually gotten from a product, but even then I don't take it as gospel. Waxes aren't so much of a problem for me as I tend to want to try something else long before they wear off anyway.

Perhaps you're right, Downhuman, and I'm just expecting too much from C2. With claims of 6-8 months protection (admittedly on bare paint) I'd be happy to see 3 months from it to be honest. Will just have to wait and see what it actually offers though. I do agree about 1000P and 425 though, they are both excellent products.

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/77681-350z-18-anniversary-wheels/

No problem, we all had to start somewhere. LSP - last stage product. Cherry Glaze is an AIO (all in one; polish, glaze and sealant). To be honest,I only used that because I was too lazy to do a full correction and wanted to mask some of the swirls I had inflicted by being too ham-fisted with a new clay bar. C2 can be used over a wax but that might affect durability, because it's bonding to the wax rather than the paint it'll depend entirely on how well/long the wax bonds to the paint. Personally, I tend to use either a sealant OR a wax rather than both... unless I'm experimenting then all bets are off. ISP? Do you mean IPA? It'll offer the best durability laid onto bare paint but G|Techniq state it can be used on top of other products too. I accept that I won't get the best out of it on top of a glaze, but as above I couldn't be a*sed to do a proper 2 stage polish at the time. It'll be interesting (to me at least) to see just how the durability differs between the panels with Cherry Glaze and the section with nothing under the C2 though.