ilogikal1

No, but he's said it's going into production so it'll be announced "soon" via the Facebook & Instagram accounts. I'll let you know when I find out what it is though.

That. Although I have been taken by that blind test product from Waxybox.... can't tell you what it is (yet) though.

Modern leather only really needs to be cleaned as they are essentially lacquered to protect them. Cleaning can be done with anything from a suitably diluted APC (all purpose cleaner - readily available from any supermarket for a pittance) and a wipe down with a cloth to dedicated leather cleaners and brushes. If your leather's in good condition, PM Envy Valeting on here about these. If it needs a deeper clean then I've only used Raceglaze Leather Cleaner with a soft bristle brush, and have also used Raceglaze Leather Balm too (both of which I would recommend) and the AutoGlym Leather Cleaner & Conditioner (neither of which I would recommend). I'd also recommend giving the steering wheel and gear knob a once over every so often too as these areas attract much more dirt and oils from the almost constant contact with your hands - although I shouldn't have to point this out I will anyway, but if you're using anything on the steering wheel in particular then always ensure the product is fully dry (and if necessary buffed) and not slippery before driving the car again!

I questioned this once with one of the phone minions (I forget which company specifically) but the excuse reason was that the more expensive the car the more care you'll take when driving it, specifically when parking - Phone Minion explained that statistically they see claims for dent/scrape repairs go up as the value of the car goes down. I took that to mean that if you have a £400 shed, you don't so much park it as just abandon it near the parking space, atop the nearby bollard...

Poorboys Natty's Paste Wax, Anglewax Desirable, Blackfire Midnight Sun and Raceglaze Black Label all give a great glossy finish and covers just about all budgets.

That depends on what you want from your LSP?

There's no problem mixing and matching - I personally tend to only use a handful of products from any one brand as I find some products from other brands work better, however I've spent a f***ing fortune finding out what I like! Ultimately everyone's going to have their own preferences. If you ask 10 people what the best product for x is, you'll likely get 7-10 different answers. If you want cheap and effective, the Poorboys range is good for what they are. If you want easily accessible, Megs and/or AutoGlym are readily available from local motorfactors. Megs tend to be better out of the two but then I'm not really a fan of AutoGlym at all as I think there's better stuff available at the same price point. It will also depend on how often you want to re-apply products too. If you only want to apply once a year then you'll need to look into coatings, which none of those three brands offer, but if you're looking at re-applying monthly-to-quarterly then there's a fair choice from those three brands alone.

Does it not calculate petrol usage then? YES.... :scare: I do so like that whooshing sound as witty* comments go flying over your head, Will. * Yes, I'm playing it a bit fast and loose with that term...

Does it not calculate petrol usage then?

If you leave the dipstick out and undo the filler cap when it's smearing, I find it tends to settle again after a few minutes.

I'm dubious enough about rinseless washes (although I appreciate that the correct technique will save a lot of damage), let alone waterless washes for much the same reason as above.

Not the thread I was referring to, but that would do it.

Common sense is so uncommon these days, it should be considered a superpower! Based on a fairly recent thread on here, I think it's clear what the reason for all these failures is... warming the engine up whilst stationary.

No, no you're not.

I've not tried that combination myself, but I'm fairly certain they would work well together.

For the same reason they do "colour charged" wax; marketing largely. It depends on the combination of products and the type of bond (i.e. physical or chemical bond). Certain products are designed to bond well specifically with each other - the Acrylic system for example, Jett will bond better to Prime but won't bond with BH, so using BH under Prime (or Jett) would see that layer just wash off effectively. The likes of BH & WD are designed offer a good bond to wax which itself protects the glaze. True glazes (as opposed to AIO) do offer very little, if any, protection themselves which is why it's best to seal with wax (or sealant) - BH will only last a couple of days at best if not sealed.

^^^ That. I've gone with Admiral this year (through Compare The Market) and they've done nothing but d*ck me around since the cover started. The entire Admiral group are now added to my sh*t list and I won't go near them again regardless of how good their quotes appear to be.

As above, Haydn, BH adds depth to the paint which brings out the flake quite well, especially when topped with Natty's wax. Not quite as well as some sealants, the Werkstat Acrylic system for example, but BH certainly enhances the 'pop'.

Good luck with the job hunting, Downhuman, I hope land on your feet mate. If the worst comes to the worst, you could always start up a detailing business. If DW's taught me anything (other than how to spend all my money), it's that you only need a bottle of SRP and a microfibre to do that for a living... The Waxybox waxes have been getting better, which I suppose is the point of them really considering it's a development wax, but I've never been a fan of wet on/wet off waxes and I found these to be a bit too grabby when buffing for the soft Nissan paint for my liking - I've been meaning to try them on harder paint actually, so I might do that with the Anniversary wax as I got some of that in the Xmas box. I do always try them on something, usually my laptop or similar, but they rarely make it onto my car and when they do it's only small patches because I just can't be a*sed killing myself to buff them off larger areas.

I really my Poorboys stuff too. Super Slick & Suds is a brilliant shampoo, it's the only one I keep going back to. The Natty's waxes with Black Hole or White Diamond give a lovely wet look on most paint and the waxes last a fair while, especially for the price.

Never! I just have too few cars to use them on.

Sadly for me, other people testing things just gives me ideas. Costs me a fortune on too many products.

Quite possibly one of those two digits, but not both of them.

Well for the benefit of anyone who cares (and to save GMballistic some time/expense of experimenting ), I've been playing again. Firstly, a week or two after the first post I washed the car again and the sheeting behaviour has changed - namely the sections topped with C2 are now sheeting at the same rate as each other again with FK sheeting slightly slower. It dawned on me that the only change in my wash routine was the shampoo used. First time round I used Chemical Guys Mr Pink, which I've since realised does contain gloss enhancers so this could well have been affecting the water behaviour. I've since used G|Technique G Wash and Car Chem Tailor Made (which don't leave anything behind) and the sheeting's much more uniform between the panels topped with C2 and those now topped with FK. Secondly, I've also topped up several panels using diluted C2 (roughly 3:2 - I simply topped up the remaining ~20ml in the Waxybox sample with de-ionised water to make ~50ml) and using it as a QD. That was 5 weeks ago now and two coats give a much slicker finish than just the one, it's also easier to apply the second coat too (not that applying the first is not easy of course) and those panels with two coats of C2 on are staying cleaner and sheet water quicker than those with just the one coat. I've had to resort to doing productive things on a weekend because the car just doesn't need cleaning as much and even when it does, it doesn't take as long any more. Thirdly, I've been playing with waxes on top of C2 on the roof. I tapped off several sections so each section is separated by bare C2 to make it easier to see the difference in water behaviour and finish. I applied Angelwax Desirable, Poorboys Natty's white, FK1000P, and three Waxybox waxes - May's #008, the Anniversary wax and the Halloween wax. The latter three lasted 2, 3 and 3 weeks (give or take a couple of days) respectively before disappearing to nothingness, Desirable and the Natty's are just about hanging in there and FK1000P is still going strong 5 weeks later. Finally, I accidentally left an open pot of Waxybox wax on top of a radiator - I got distracted by something shiny. As soon as the heating was switched on, it did a good job of making the whole room smell of the wax... luckily it was one of the nicer scented waxes (it was the winter wax blend, #006, I think in case you're interested), so I left it there. It's still making the room smell very pleasant indeed, weeks after the other waxes have failed on the paintwork. So to summarise; know your shampoos before blaming the LSP, use 2 coats of C2, C2 plays well with other LSPs and previous Waxybox waxes make better air fresheners than they do waxes.