ilogikal1

If I wanted to go fast in a straight line I can think of more appealing than anything with VX in the name, let alone the Z.

the first rule of the vx club is ............. ..... hang your head in shame?

Seems quite expensive, might try this: http://www.amazon.co...3SJC6BF7CG07J0F A little goes a loooong way with this stuff. And don't just do headlights, do any exposed plastic. Black plastic under wing mirrors, plastic sill plates, engine bay plastics, B-pillar plastics, etc. C4 is the same stuff as C1 and C5, so it will also do bodywork and wheels too. Basically every exterior surface on the car except glass.

Have a read through this; http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/56870-guide-for-new-memberspotential-buyers/

I highly recommend Atkin Motor Engineers in Malton.

Supply and demand. A company will charge as much as people are willing to pay, basically. But I agree, on the face of it that seems overpriced to me too.

I'll have to start paying more attention seeing as I live round the corner from there but never spotted your Z. Which one to be fair been going in the misses car since before Christmas Either.

I'll have to start paying more attention seeing as I live round the corner from there but never spotted your Z.

No worries, the reason I chose to share this was so people could make up their own minds on whether they want to pre-wash or not. I'm glad I've been of some use at times though. It makes a refreshing change.

Citrus Power comes in a spray bottle (unless you get 5 litre sizes) but works out to be quite expensive - although there are currently a few 3 for 2 offers on Auto Finesse products at the moment. A lot of people recommend Valet Pro Citrus Pre-Wash as an efficient, cost effective alternative to Citrus Power which is applied by spray bottle and you can adjust the concentration as required with that too. You'll still get the most benefit when used in conjunction with a pressure washer though.

I think it's because Richard knows I'm a sucker for a cunning marketing ploy.

I saw this the other week (on Kingswood, completely forgot to put up a spotted thread though ) with the old front end on. The new look is much better! Intentionally? Why would you ever want to come here?

I've only bought a couple of things from the Waxyshop, but I know of a few people who have been offered the Elite subscription just on previous box purchases alone. I've only had one more box than you so you can't be much further down the invite list. I believe Richard might be offering more of these at some point, it was limited to only 15 this time as a trial run (but it is a 6 month subscription).

It's invite only, offered in order of how much you've spent with Waxybox. It seems I've spent a fair bit more than I thought I had there.

That's because I'm "special". It's the Elite box, same stuff but 100ml instead of the 50ml samples.

Don't use the whole bar at the same time. With the DJ bars, I tend to use 1/3rd at a time. Bin the chamois as well and get some decent microfibre cloths - the Nissan paint is so ridiculously soft it's easy to inflict marring. Detox shampoo isn't entirely necessary if you're claying (or polishing for that matter) because the clay will remove much more than the shampoo anyway. With regards to wax, any of the DJ waxes will do a good job (colour charged waxes are nothing but a gimmick), whether it's a hard wax (like Purple Haze) or a soft wax (like Blue Velvet) will make more of a difference - you can even use them together, Purple Haze with Blue Velvet layered on top.

It's arrived! Just so I don't ruin anyone's surprise, contents are... er, contained (?) within

It's an absolute delight to work with. It needs to be applied thinly for it to buff off with little effort, but it's so easy work it's not a problem getting thin layers. Personally I prefer to foam onto a dry car rather than pre-rinse as I find a wet panel encourages the foam to sheet off quicker which reduced the contact/cleaning time. That said, if it's a thick foam that tends not to run, it will be an advantage. The beading and dirt repellent effect will be due to the wax, if you're topping up every 2 weeks your car should be well protected.

Good point, and on that note I did forget to mention that the car in question is currently very well protected with various combinations of C2v3, FK1000P and/or AW Desirable.

I was involved in a discussion elsewhere regarding the virtues of snow foaming mainly but also other pre-washes. As I have too much time on my hands today I decided to do a write up and thought I'd share it here too. The theory put forward was that you can achieve as much by simply blasting the dirt away with just a pressure washer as you can by using a snow foam (basically that foaming doesn't actually do anything), thus making snow foam little more than a costly gimmick. So I decided to test this theory (largely due to my enjoyment of saying "I told you so" to the proposer of this theory ). I also decided to do the same with the citrus pre-wash at the same time, just for the sake of it and I had some to hand anyway. Method; take one filthy Z, apply pre-wash to half the car, allow to dwell, rinse the entire car, present the results. Passenger side will be snow foamed, driver side will be citrus pre-washed. On the rear, half will be foamed, half will be citrus to see which, if either, is the more effective cleaner. The pre-washes in question; I was only using what I had to hand, however these are both currently widely considered to be amongst the best in their respective field. Citrus Power is used neat whereas Autofoam is slightly more involved as it requires a 4-8% solution to hit the panel to be most effective (according to posts from Bilt Hamber on Detailing World), so a bucket, 30 seconds of my time and a bit of maths later I had the correct amount of solution in the lance for exactly 5% solution to hit the panel ready to go. So we begin with one very filthy car; Autofoam was then applied to the (already slightly cleaner) passenger side, as such; And Citrus Power to the driver's side; And both to the rear; All of which was allowed to dwell for 10 minutes. Which looked like this; Autofoam Citrus Power Both The entire car was then thoroughly rinsed which left it looking like this (please note, this is the result of an entirely touchless wash); Which all looks lovely and whatnot. What you might be able to see (particularly on the Autofoam side as that had, had a little longer to sheet the rinse water) is a definite line of remaining traffic film impeding sheeting (about level with the bottom of the door handle on that side in the first picture), demonstrating that neither foam nor citrus pre-wash is a replacement for the usual contact wash stage. The car wash then left to dry for an hour or two to show the difference better. So without further ado, here are the 'result' pictures, from which you may make your own conclusions. Autofoam side; Which looks pretty even. Until you get a bit closer; I will draw your attention, in particular, to this area right above here ^^^^ It may not be obvious in the photo, but in person you can clearly see where the foam has run down the panel. And the Citrus Power side; The difference is more evident here. I will just remind you though that the foam side was cleaner to start with. And for those who are wondering what cleans better, Autofoam or Citrus Power, here are the results of that one; Autofoam side; Citrus Power side; Which better demonstrates Autofoam's cleaning power as, to me, it's fairy even between Autofoam and Citrus Power. I will add that Autofoam is, in my personal opinion, the best foam I've tried in terms of cleaning power (to quantify that statement my previous foams include Megs Hyperwash, AD Magifoam [blue & purple versions], VP PH Neutral, and AF Avalanche). So for me it comes down to cost which breaks down as such; I used exactly 400ml of Autofoam to get the 5% on the panel (which was enough to foam the entire car as well, after this test). Previously I when I've done the whole car with Citrus Power I also used roughly 350-400ml. Autofoam is £17 for 5 litres and Citrus Power is £35 for 5 litres at the time of writing. Oh, and foaming just looks way cooler too. So there's that. And anyone still reading by this point may be glad to know that I did a full & proper foam and 2 bucket wash immediately after the last photo was taken so the poor Z is all clean and shiny again, but it started raining just as I finished up so I have no evidence of that so you'll just have to believe me.

Search is your friend. But to save you the bother; http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/75808-bluetooth-new-phone-pairing-but-nothmm/

No need to buy a specialist clay lube, any decent QD will do the job but even that's unnecessary as you can simply use a decent, properly diluted car shampoo as lube. Better still though; That, & use water for lubrication.

Sorry to hear this Rob. Let's hope you're in that GTR before too long.

No worries, I didn't mean to imply that you were wrong, just that I disagreed and offered another opinion to the OP. With regards to abrasive polishes, I did specify in my original post that choice would be determined by the level of correction required. I agree with your point about SN over Natty's though; SN gives much better, sharper reflections (SN Hybrid especially) but I find SN gives a more of a clinical finish as a result so for wet look and depth I prefer Natty's. All in my personal opinion, of course.