ilogikal1

Hope it's nothing serious mate.

I've only tried half of the stuff from the last box - I tried the Car Chem Clarity, but felt it's not as good as Pain from a previous box. The Candy Gloss sachet was nice to work with but I didn't notice any great improvement in gloss over other waxes (yes, plural) on my car and it's also long since worn off now anyway. The Nanolex Trim Rejuvenator I've been very impressed with though. It's been applied to the Leon (which has a big bit of trim at the top of the bonnet, for reasons that are beyond me) and it's still beading well. I also ordered this month's box early on too. The Z is overdue a wash so, weather permitting, I might actually use this one before ordering the next.

Today, a ginger 350Z at Dunswell roundabout coming off the A1079 at about 2pm. And a black JDM 350Z on Sutton Road about an hour later.

Please explain The Cafe buy scones from Tesco...

Good work.

I use this; the cleaner's excellent and the balm leaves a nice, natural matte finish to the leather. Or these for the sake of ease (Envy also offer a member discount).

£3.50. But I'll give you £4 for them if you deliver them to me.

I have no experience of Fixer or Optimum so I can't offer anything with regards to those. Ultrafina, as you've found, doesn't have a great deal of cut - it's okay for light wash marring, but it won't remove deeper swirls or scratches. You should get a bit more cut from pairing it with the yellow 3M pad, which itself has more cut than the blue pad. I doubt you'll need to use Fast Cut, I would have expected Extra Fine on the yellow pad (by DA) to remove a lot, if not all, the swirls perhaps stepping down to the blue pad. You can should then be able to refine with Ultrafina on a blue pad if you wanted to for that extra gloss. Unfortunately, as already stated above, it's very soft paint so is extremely easy to inflict marring which is partly why I like to use a glaze. I know what you mean though, it can be quite disheartening at times though.

I realise it was the extremely hamfisted way I phrased it, but what I meant was you can't entirely prevent inflicting more swirls over time (you can minimise fresh swirling though) rather than never getting rid of those already inflicted. I also disagree with the 99% of the time it being due to not working the compound. Whilst it is often the issue, the simple fact of the matter is if you're using something too abrasive for the paint you will never get a good finish regardless of how long or hard you work it. Similarly if the compound isn't abrasive enough, you can work it all you like it still won't remove all the marring... and then the longer you work it, the more it dries out, the more marring is inflicted.

That.

You'll never eliminate swirls and it's always a losing battle, you just have to try to minimise them really, having said that I've found Nissan paint to be very easy to induce marring (I'm sure the paint is actually just coloured butter rather than paint!) and in my experience you can actually cause a lot of swirls just with a mircofibre (albeit a cheaper one) and not a lot of pressure. Nissan paint is considerably softer than anything else I've worked on. What pads/compounds have you been using? I assume it's by DA rather than rotary too? I tend to use (by DA, on Azure) Lake Country Constant Pressure pads (orange & green) with Menz compounds (203S/PF2500 & 85RE/SF4000) on my Zed, and usually opting for a two stage polish to remove swirls. Although if using a glaze, I could often get away with a single stage using 203S. I've also been playing around with a few products this weekend; FK303 might be of interest to you - it's a glaze but also contains abrasives. When worked by machine it's actually quite good at removing wash marring, gives a great finish, is p*ss easy to work with and as it contains no oils can be used with just about anything. The only slight down side is that it does need to be worked quite a bit - it's not like any other glaze I've come across and certainly isn't a wipe on, wipe off product.

Sorry to see that, Wasso. I hope it all gets sorted.

He goes to the extent of mentioning all the "tiny blemishes" which "don't show up in the photos", but then fails to mention to the damage on the front splitter. Which does show. Quite clearly. In the photo he provided.

What code did you use mate? The juneshop one doesn't seem to work..... That's for use in the Waxyshop, for the products they sell rather than for the boxes.

LMGT4; GT4;

At least you're not the only one to have overlooked the switch then. You're welcome.

Oh god.... I hadn't even noticed that switch. They must've knocked it when doing the tint yesterday. Lets just not tell anyone about this okay? Don't worry, I won't tell anyone. On the bright side (I'm not even sorry about that pun), it's a cheap and easy fix.

Is the switch still set to "door" rather than "off"?

If you're looking for snow foams to try, there's a Magifoam group buy going on over on DW at the moment. It foams ridiculously well (better than Avalanche) but it lacks a bit of cleaning power compared to Avalanche. Megs Hyperwash is similar to Magifoam too and worth looking at, but I keep going back to Avalanche myself. Kyle, it's more likely to be the lance. The standard Karcher (and Nilfisk) bottle(s) don't contain a gauze so they can't produce the same foam effect as a proper snow foam lance.

Tardis for the tar spots. Get some pictures up of the splodges if the paint cleaner doesn't shift them (if it's just something left on the surface, the Megs should shift it though) and I'm sure someone will be able to help.

Snow foam isn't meant to be an alternative to washing; get as much off with the snow foam & pressure washer as you can, then get the buckets & wash mitt out.

Clicky. They're not the best quality cloths that I have, but they're good for more general use and at 31p per cloth they can be disposable.

Well spotted We also managed to turn his 100,000 mile 2003 JDM Into a 25,000 mile UK GT Spec I'll upload some pics for you all now You even changed is windscreen wipers for him.