ilogikal1

The standard "foam bottles" that come with most pressure washers are crap for actual foaming duties - they can be quite handy for other things but nothing beats a proper foam lance. Don't expect super thick foam from Avalanche (it does still foam quite well but I've never got a shaving foam consistency with it).

Then allow me; no. I'm guessing this won't satisfy you either though as I'm not a mod...

Fixed that for you.

Yeah, but what about cleaning the car?

If the foam's not sticking, the dirt won't stick much either. It's the same with mine, in that the LSP prevents the longer dwell times that some people get, but with the right foam it still removes a good amount of dirt - it does vary quite a lot between different foams though. The only thing you can really do about it is give it a second hit of foam. I've found better results from rinsing between snow foams when I've felt the need to give it a second hit rather than just 'topping up' (as it were) the foam on the car without rinsing.

A timely bank holiday weekend deal at Screwfix; http://www.screwfix.com/p/nilfisk-c120-3-6-120bar-pressure-washer-with-trolley-230v/56192.

"Also, this has only been tested on average adults.. I'm 5-4 and she's 5-6." That's average? Useless guide! That's the average waist size in America these days...

A good snow foam, left to dwell for long enough, will also soften the more baked on grime making it easier to remove with a pressure washer leaving less muck on the car for the actual wash stage. Not to mention that I would prefer to remove as much dirt as possible before touching the paint at all. And as you can make roughly 2000 litres for about £30, it really isn't that expensive.

Nilfisk is a better bet as Karcher's are now build using plastic parts (Nilfisk still use metal) so are more susceptible to breaking sooner. As mentioned above, different fixtures for each brand, so I'd advise choosing a washer before buying a lance - there's plenty of choice and not a lot of difference between dedicated snow foam lances to be honest. I currently have a Nilfisk and a lance from Polished Bliss which does the job well. The foam itself will come down to personal preference really, I've tried a few from Megs Hyperwash, Magifoam Blue & Purple, VP PH Neutral, etc, etc, but the one I've found to clean the best is AF Avalanche. Doesn't foam as much as some, but cleans well.

As above, it depends on how deep the scratches are but anything cerium oxide based is what you need - such as http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/3m-glass-polishing-compound-cat16.html or http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/engine-and-exterior/glass-cleaners-sealants/carpro-ceri-glass-kit/prod_988.html for example. It's not an easy job, so it'll take a while by machine (rotary being better for this than DA) or take forever by hand if they're not light scratches. If they're too deep, you'll need to replace the glass.

19" apparently; http://my350z.com/forum/9992826-post18.html From here; http://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-tires/567372-avant-garde-m550-5-spoke-deep-concave.html

Scroll down.

It's worth noting that most washing up liquids contain salt. Chances are this will cause light marring, so it depends if you're intending to polish after stripping the wax... but then the polish will remove an LSP anyway, so it seems redundant. There are better/safer things to use than washing up liquid in my opinion.

I've just downloaded it and run it though 4 different scans, nothing detected on any of them.

^^ That. Plus PIAA also make aero blades as well these days if that's what you're after.

OP said he was using Poorboys wax. Poorboys Natty's Paste Wax - http://www.poorboysworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/pbw.cgi?Command=ShowEPage&db_epid=7

Natty's does tend to dust when it's over-applied. Also, as has already been mentioned, it's best to leave it a few hours (I've found with Natty's, about 6+ hours is good) between coats.

SF4500 (or PO85RD if you prefer) will be fine by hand on Nissan paint, so long as you make sure you work it fully. Good luck with getting it finished in time.

It would be a last resort prior to a re-spray for me. Always start with the least cut to do the job so I'd try polishing any scratches first. I certainly wouldn't be wet sanding without paint depth readings first either.

If the residue comes off easily (you may need to use some of the lube to shift it if it's dried on) then I wouldn't worry about it, it's probably just the lube. Could always open the bottle and have a look if it's bothering you that much.

Yep, when it's broken!

It's best not to use an acidic cleaner - any decent non-acidic wheel cleaner will be up to the job, I've recently been using Chemical Guys (when it's needed). I also like to use Tardis and Wolf's Decon Gel to completely clean them before sealing.

Yes, yes and which kit are you using? Keep repeating the process until the clay isn't picking up any fresh contaminants - i.e. the bar is still clean after it's passed over the area you're working on. It should then feel totally smooth when you run your fingertips over it. Always use plenty of lube (oo-er) otherwise you run a greater risk of marring the paint and that'll need to be polished out then. It's always better to use too much lube than too little.

I just use 2 cheap 12.5 litre buckets from B&Q (I think) and don't agree with grit guards so don't use them at all.

Agreed, it's wonderful stuff this but I'm too cheap for this to be general use. It does make a great wax-friendly TFR though. Detergent based so best keep it away from rubber and it will probably strip wax. (fairy liquid is a detergent) I've no idea about this stuff specifically, but being detergent based isn't necessarily an issue - all others mentioned already are detergent based too.