ilogikal1

I saw on the tellybox that Alan Partridge once punched a man a wheelchair. The BBC should sack him instantly!

I've got two lances (one of them is the PA ) and I tend to alternate between the two of them of as and when they each need cleaning out. So after spending a fair portion of Tuesday polishing my nuts, I've spent a fair portion of today servicing my lance.

But the point of this post is a quick LSP sitrep after today's wash and being attacked with G101 (applied neat through a foam lance) as I'll be stripping anything left off as from tomorrow; Nano One doesn't like G101 much. It hasn't killed it but it has further slowed the sheeting. Nano Wax was less affected - although Wax is on a vertical panel and One is on a much more horizontal so common sense suggests this would affect how water runs off. Car Chem Origin & Connoisseur are both still going strong, both easily withstood everything so far without blinking. Let's see how they stand up to Tardis, fall out remover and clay cloth. Wax Addict 21 was killed off entirely. Dodo Juice Supernatural Acrylic Spritz has been completely killed off now, it's offering absolutely nothing any more. Citrus BSD was weakened, it's still going well in part but the area it's protecting on the boot has significantly shrunk since application, the area on the wings is patchy now. Car Chem Hydro Coat (neat) was so unfazed that it was simply beading the APC foam just for fun. G1 did the same. Hydro Coat (diluted) was a little more fazed and it notably weakened the sheeting in parts, similar to Citrus BSD. Er... I think that's everything... isn't it? Slick Rims beading is HubiRims beading is I might get photos of those tomorrow when waiting for stuff to do its stuff. I made every attempt to avoid the wheels as much as possible with the snow foam and APC foam, but what I did get on the wheels & tyres hasn't affected the Slick Rims, HubiRims or Blackfire tyre dressing in the least. I'm currently completely undecided what LSP(s) to play with next - I have a couple of coatings to play with, similarly I have some waxes (I still don't have Supernatural though ) and I usually go with wax over the summer months. Of course I could also top a coating with a wax too.... It's also been a while since I've had the same product on every panel at the same time, so that would be a novelty. It might be nice to give Hydro Coat, Origin and/or Connoisseur a proper outing too. Also, foam lance down.

Open to offers on the SSQV as I need that gone (not so bothered about having to keep hold of the Defi's ).

I remember my mate telling me of the time he was "run off the road by a nutter in a van". His Mrs, permanently preoccupied with her phone, didn't even realise they'd been in an accident until they came to a halt in the field adjacent to the road they were on and he got out of the car.

The trick is not to over-wet the area. I just use an interior cleaner; lightly sprayed onto a small area, worked in with a damp (not wet!) microfiber cloth and then wiped dry with another clean, dry microfiber cloth.

That!

No idea what they're worth I'm afraid, I'm sure someone will be along shortly to answer than for you, but they will be absolutely fine over Brembos.

I found the answer using Google. Inside of 3 minutes at that. And you're right, no one has ever done a guide for any work on a 350Z. As is evidenced by the completely Guides section. Me, upset? Not at all. "Dad".

I'd prefer some chicken, but I'd settle for a KFC instead.

I wasn't really interested guesses and I know how the search button works. Thanks for the unhelpul reply. I was going to post a link for you, but seeing as I haven't done it myself I'd only be guessing that it was accurate so I don't think I'll bother now if that's your attitude.

It is without doubt the single best wax in the "comes-in-a-150g-size-gold-painted-tin-priced-between-£7.98-&-£8.00-with-the-word-Simoniz-on-it" category. But only just.

Simple solution; take it to a garage and get them to do it. Ask them which hole they used (although you might want to elaborate on that phrasing ). If it blows up, they buy you a whole new setup. If it doesn't then Chris knows he's okay.

This always amused me when I was looking at them. It usually goes; Second hand car salesman; "It's quite nippy but also economical, it's only a 1.3 don't you know" Insurance salesman; "It's a 2.6, so our random number generator says £..." Mazda salesman; "You're also looking at 3.5 litre Nissans? Well ours is 3.9...". Every time, without fail.

I leave the car out when it's raining, occasionally I might even turn it around so the rain washes both sides. What more do you want from me? I'd wash them less if there wasn't so much salt on the roads over winter. Stick with the FK for now. Slick Rims is certainly an effort to remove, although it's easy to find any bits that you've missed - run a microfibre over the surface until it's snatched out of your hand. Slick Rims told me; The kerbing wasn't really an issue as it's limited to the outside lip really. The stone chips and OEM paint flaking feature ( ) though... Most of the brake dust & general grime was removed by Imperial and/or Surfex and/or any of the fallout removers used (incidentally, iron wheel weights are f****** stupid idea!), but I've not had the wheels properly sealed for some time now (certainly over winter) so they needed a proper deep clean really. The clay picked up a fair amount still really, although I'm not sure where from because the wheels didn't look any dirtier before than they did after. Then again, the paint cleaner picked up more still. Normally it'd just be a wipe over (and re-apply some protection on a good day), but this is the summer prep for the wheels done. I just need to find the motivation for the rest of the car now.

Well that ****** on my one and only "sensible" thought of the day then.

Oh and whilst I remember, Dan; don't worry, those Falkens are almost dead now so they'll shortly be replaced with matching MPSS.

As spring is springing (it's not quite sprung here just yet, but it does keep trying bless it's little cotton socks) and I have much, much more important things to do with my time, I thought I'd spend a few days detailing. You can probably guess from my recent posts above that I started with the wheels. For some reason I've done the before pictures from the back of the wheels and the afters from the front. I can't be arsed to remove the wheels again just for pictures so these will have to do. Started with; Which on closer inspection looked like this. After cleaning, one of them looked like this (tyre has been dressed). Clearly that hilarious friend of mine was finally right and I must have polished the other one away entirely. Also at some point they swapped sides, free internet points to anyone who can tell which pictures belong to which side. Anyway, that one then looked like this when sealed. You can sort of see the gloss that Slick Rims added there. Almost. I'll get some better ones when the car is finally rolled out of the garage again. For those interested, the process was something along the lines of; Wheels; Remove wheels. Apply AF Imperial to wheels and tyres. Agitate - I started by calling it names but when that didn't work I attacked it with a Wheel Woolie and Vikan brush respectively). Rinse. Apply BH Surfex HD to wheels and tyres. Agitate - skipped the name-calling this time though. Rinse Wash. Rinse. Dry. Apply Tardis. Wipe the tar off. Apply more Tardis to the old wheel weight stickers. Scrub. Repeat. A lot. Until the very sticky, sticky stuff is gone. Rinse. Decontaminate - me being me I couldn't resist making a little start on the fallout test I've got planned. Agitate. Rinse. Clay. Wash. Rinse. Paint cleaner. Buff. Apply tyre dressing - Blackfire Total Eclipse Tyre Gel this time round courtesy of the SuperStu Lucky Dip method. IPA wipe down. Apply wheel sealant - three of the four got Slick Rims, then I ran out so the rear driver side got HubiRims. Buff sealant. Polish nuts. Seal nuts with Dr Beasley's Wheel Sealant spray. Replace wheels. Arches; Liberally apply Surfex HD. Scrub everything within reach with a Vikan brush. Rinse. Wash. Dry. Apply sealant to calipers - passenger side got FK1000P, driver side got HubiRims. Just for lolz. Apply CG Bare Bones to everything else (excluding the brake discs, obviously). This, along with avoiding some rain, took me three days, which is one of many, many very good reasons why I shouldn't ever do this for a living. The wheels were done two at a time, starting with the passenger side, and the arches were done whilst stuff was drying/curing/getting rained on when the wheels were off. Now, Slick Rims. I had a 10ml sample from (surprise, surprise) Waxybox. I had literally 3 drops left after coating the 3rd wheel (front and back), so the 100ml bottle would do around 30 OEM RAYS for your £45 - which isn't too bad because Slick Rims state "100ml Treats 20+ Rims" and works out to be £1.50 per wheel. It claims a durability of "10k miles", or a year+. So similar durabilty claims as Gtechniq C5 at about a third of the price (or rather 100ml for the price of 30ml+£2.50 change). Application was easy enough; the first two I applied with the thicker Waxybox applicators that come with (or at least as pictured with) the full size bottle but I found this absorbed quite a lot of the product and needed to be squeezed out quite often. For the third wheel I switched to the thinner finger applicators from Waxybox and found that much better. Applicator aside though, Slick Rims was very easy to spread with good work time. It was then left to cure for... er... some amount of time (somewhere between 5-30 minutes depending on the wheel) before buffing off. Removal was quite the opposite of application though, it's initially very grabby - almost sticky. You know I dislike BSD for it's grabby feeling? Yeah, this is a billionty times worse! - and it was a pain to remove from the spokes. Removal from the barrels was a bit easier, due to the larger surface area it was easier to get a bit of momentum going to break though the grabbiness. It's a good job it's supposed to last about a year because I'll be buggered if I'm going to the effort of buffing that off every couple of months! The finish, however, is extremely glossy. Once buffed it feels quite slick and it beads very well - no pictures of that yet though. Would I buy it? Undecided at this point. It was an unholy bitch to remove once cured so the real world durability needs to make the effort worthwhile. My only issue with (at this point) is the removal though. In contrast, the final wheel was sealed with HubiRims and that was a delight to use again. Once more, this was a sample from Waxybox (the 2nd sample for those who do the Waxybox thing) which came as a block in a pouch rather than in a tin, so this was applied with my fingers and as such was massively over-applied in certain places. I knew this wouldn't be an issue to remove though and sure enough it buffed off with ease. Also, my hands and wheel now smell of original HubiFresh, which is the greatest scent of ever. Meanwhile, my garage smells of Bare Bones, which is as good a reason as one needs to apply Bare Bones in a confined space.

Either that or she's just lonely and wants any excuse to interact with another living person, say the only neighbour for miles for example. Just a thought.

Duct tape Ethel to a wall. Duct tape solves everything and it's clearly the only solution.

Never been a fan of the PH scent. Blue Velvet on the other hand...

Supposedly; hard wax is more durable, soft wax gives a warmer finish. Realistically, in my experience with Dodo Juice waxes specifically; hard waxes last a week longer at best, any difference in finish is unnoticeable unless you're really looking for it side by side. Also, don't worry too much about the colour charged marketing spiel

So long as you put the new battery in within a couple of minutes of taking the old out/the old one dying entirely, you shouldn't need to reprogramme it.

Yep, just that. Then then just polish out any difference between old and new paint.

That'll need paint. You could have a bash at it yourself, at this point you've got nothing to lose as you can't (easily) make it worse.