ilogikal1

Alberto Del Rio. That is all.

Seeing as the weatherman installed a beta version Spring 2015 in Hull today (that's how it works, right?) I broke out the toys, especially as Spring will be deleted again by tomorrow. So I started the day with this (click on the pictures for access to the full resolution versions if you wish); And then I thought I was JJ Abrams for a moment and lens flair happened; But I soon realised I wasn't that **** and things returned to normal; I then fetched the toys, starting with this; ... which was mixed with water 2:1 in a foam lance bottle. The lance was measured and then adjusted to give a PIR of 20:1 (give or take a decimal place or two). And then I did this with it; Above it about a two minutes after application, below is closer to three; By which time it had already pulled off a bit of muck, like this; That was given whole 10-11 minutes to dwell, then some water happened and after that was allowed to dry for 5/6 minutes (ish) I was left with this; If you look closely you can still see a layer of dirt on there. And if you look really closely here, you might be able to see some dirt that was left on the skirt (which I intentionally didn't rinse off as thoroughly) It did a better job where rinsed properly, but again you can still see dirt on the paint; Notably better than it was though; But still some dirt left all around the car; And then the Red Arrows flew over... ... eh, Red Arrows... Eh! Ah forget it! Pointing out the remaining filth on the roof there. Similar dirt remained on the horizontal parts of the boot, like this; And it was a similar story on the bonnet too. But I didn't get any photos of that, so like one of JJ Abrams' plentiful plot holes, you're simply supposed to overlook that. All in all, it's a good snow foam at exactly half way between the "maximum" and "light" clean dilutions. Aside from the skirt that I didn't rinse all that well, I was quite happy with the cleaning that it offered knowing that it still had more to offer at a lower dilution. It worked at a reasonable rate - none of the 30 minute dwell time nonsense. It didn't hang around on the drive forever - it was virtually all gone by time I'd finished the wash. It's fairly comparable to the Car Chem and Bilt Hamber offerings (which are two of the best) at similar dilutions in terms of cleaning, thickness of the foam and dwell time. The likelihood of me buying this over either of the other two will depend entirely on price, however with one source selling it at £17/litre, it's a full £5 more than Car Chem for a litre (or £5 less than 5litres of Car Chem) and actually 4p more expensive than 5litres of Bilt Hamber. (And yes, I dislike JJ Abams' "work")

But HR processes have to be followed for all employees. Even in cases where it's painfully obvious to all who & what the problem is. VOE.

To be fair, there was a time when you wouldn't even change a phone (handset) as often as every couple of years. The sceptical, devout anti-Applist voice in my head is currently screaming; just wait until Apple tells everyone they need a new watch ever year or two and watch the sheep come flocking. Granted that may be a somewhat skewed outlook, but you have to admit with Apple it could well happen (to an extent at least). On the topic of tradesmen people of all genders; I know many who wont take their smartphones onto a work site (unless it's the work's phone!). Almost all of them still use those indestructible Nokia handsets for phone calls when on site because their "proper" phones are too expensive to risk. I can't see them taking the same chances with a several hundred pounds worth of watch to be honest. Although that's not to say no one will, of course.

Compunds; Scholl S17+ Scholl S20 Scholl S30 Menz Power Finish (203S) Menz Super Finish (85RE) Megs Ultimate Compound. Megs 105. Sonax Perfect Finish. (postage not included on this one). Pads; Lake Country Hydro Tech. Also in other sizes depending on your backing plate(s); here, here and here. Hex Logic pads; green and blue* or the otherwise suggested orange and white. If you're going with the Sonax though, these pads are also available from CYC, here so you can get it all in one place. Again, plus postage for these pads. *there's only one step respectively between theses pads, but personally I opted the former pair with less cut when I tried them, hence I've included the links in case you were wondering.

First month; constant usage, showing everyone ever your new toy. For the rest of it's life; left at the bottom of a drawer somewhere for 8 months whilst you forget you even own it.

Sorry I assumed from the OP that you hadn't used it much at all, it was just how I read it I think.

I think, although prepared to be corrected, that it can (note, not necessarily will) be reduced to one offence, but in doing so the maximum punishment can also be increased as it has to be taken through the court. Also you may be welcoming a dangerous driving charge rather than speeding in that event.

For pads I'll second Dan's suggestion of the tangerine & crimson Lake Country Hydro Techs. My current compound preference is Scholl, although I opted for S20 rather than S17 - S20 has slightly less cut, as a rotary is going to offer faster correction (and beyond that, damage), might be a better choice for a novice*... but you should be aware that we're talking about the difference between the Mercedes W05 and the Red Bull RB10; in the hands of an expert there's a big difference, in the hands of a mere mortal, average Joe they're both going to cause a lot of damage when it goes wrong! *Usual caveat of start with the least aggressive combination and only step it up if you need to. As you're using a rotary, your biggest obstacle is going to be heat build up. Normally I'd suggest practicing on the panel that's ultimately going to get repainted anyway (that way it doesn't matter so much if you strike through and/or have trouble finishing down), however as that would be the rear bumper I would actually advise against that - being plastic, if you don't manage the heat build up you're going to cause a lot more damage than just to the paint. So instead I'll recommend a scrap panel to practice on and/or doing a whole lot of reading up before you let loose on the car. Slow and steady is the way to go. Whilst it's not something I'd usually recommend for a novice on soft paint, you can still get good results with a rotary; you just need to know where dangers lie and how to avoid them. Also be prepared for just how expensive any mistakes could get... that'll help focus the mind when you're doing it.

So you agree that someone should buy my Defi's and have the best of both worlds then.

I was beginning to think I'd never say this but; I disagree with you, Dan. Aside from never having a problem reading my Defi's, it really doesn't take long at all to become accustomed to where the needle should be pointing on the face at any given input - even if you don't read the actual numbers it's easy enough to see whether the needle is in the right sort of area, and that's all you need from a glance. That said, mine are a blue illumination with a red needle and it's just occurred to me that you might have meant specifically those Defi's above, which might be a different matter, but I've typed all that out now so I'm posting it anyway. Also, I might be biased because I own/am selling a set of Defi's, so make of that what you will.

If I remember rightly, there's a bit of trim inside the door separate to the door card for access to the bolts; that's the bit that's got to come off but the door card has to be off to get access to that trim.

First thing I'd do is remove the door card & trim behind the mirror and check the 3 bolts securing the mirror to the base.

Nice pics.

I must admit, I was a little sceptical of that myself, however having read through the report a couple of times I've not spotted any way in which it could have been fixed to benefit Bilt Hamber - I could have missed something of course - so the results seem quite reliable. BH likely were a little selective with the other products used, but I've long since stated that Wax-Oyl is an outdated product these days and this simply proves that there better products on the market than Wax-Oyl - that's what I took away from this report rather than BH is the best.

Yep, you could be using a bit too much then. To be fair though, I massively overused it at first too so you're not alone. Are you using it every wash, too? I've found it'll last 2-3 months between applications.

I've just spotted this on the Car Chem website, I think it may have broken me; http://car-chem.com/store/car-care-exterior/car-polish-wax-sealants/ob-glaze-250ml Sounds like a fairly ordinary sealant, right? But wait, what's this...? And with that ilogikal1 went off to find out prices for UV lighting in his garage!

I usually aim to get 5 (and a bit if I can) from that size bottle. I aim to use around 100ml per car, per application but have found I can use a bit less some times or a bit more other times. I know some people claim to use as little as 75ml, others use 125ml so anywhere in that sort of range is the target really (although even less would be impressive). I've found it tends to spread a looooooong way on the panel when rinsing, so always try to use less than you think you're going to need and you should still be okay (easier said than done, I know. I struggle with that myself!) and remember to rinse thoroughly. Also remember that you can always add more if you missed a bit after rinsing. That's a lot for me to remember, so I've made space in my brain by forgetting the names of vegetables and other unimportant information. If you want to see just how far it actually does spread, next time you notice your beading dropping off, give one panel one spray and witness the magic. It really is quite surprising how far it goes!

I wasn't really sure where to post this, so if the mods think it's better off somewhere else feel free to put it in the right place for me (please ). I know this doesn't come up here all that often, but it does come up occasionally so this might help some. Essentially the University of Hertfordshire were charged with the task of testing rust prevention waxes (by Bilt Hamber); comparing Wax-Oyl, Noxudol 700, Rustbuster, Dinitrol, Dynax S50 & Korrosions-Schutzfett in a salt spray cyclic corrosion test. Full details of the test are in the link, along with the results, however in short; some metal plates were coated with each of the rust-proof products above and then sent through a synthesized life-cycle which speeds up rusting. The test found Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 to out perform the others. It also shows just how poor the highly regarded and often recommended Wax-Oyl performs in comparison. Anyway, the test in it's entirety can be found here.

Based on your budget, for a deep, wet look I'll second Stu's suggestion for White Diamond glaze, and add Poorboys Natty's Blue wax on top (although the latter is a whole £2 over budget... sorry about that). That'll be quite hands on to apply but should see you through a good 2/3 months per application fairly easily. Alternatively if you want ease & speed of use, I'd recommend Gyeon Washcoat or Car Chem Hydro Coat (which again comes in a couple of quid over budget with postage... but the bottle should last you years!), the compromise for the speed and ease of use with either of these is that you'll get a more glossy, glass-like finish than the wet look you were after.

That depends entirely on your normal everyday driving habits.

More from those three... although I may have lost track with which ones are which... maybe... However, I do remember that this is Nano One; This might be as far over as Origin... maybe... I... have no idea which ones these are. But they are pretty. This one is Origin collecting dirty beads; Still Origin; Connoisseur; Er... Connoisseur... perhaps. G1, Car Chem Hydro Coat, Car Chem PTFE Glaze, Cure and Citrus BSD; I don't even remember what the point of this one was supposed to be, but evidence that the car is dirty at least; That's your lot for now, I'm off to toast the anniversary of this thread... which is as good an excuse as any to crack open a beer or twelve.

Meanwhile at the other end of the car, this is happening; Far side is Nanolex Nano One, middle is Car Chem Origin, nearside is Car Chem Connoisseur, wing is Citrus BSD hybrid, front bumper is Waxaddict 21, badge is something else, headlights are something else again, glass is G1, the door is failing/failed Gyeon Cure and the wiper arms have some stuff on too. Anyway. Connoisseur; Origin; Nano One; All beading well considering it's dirty. Nano One beads seem to be marginally flatter, which isn't too surprising considering that's a sealant whilst the other two are outright waxes. Origin and Connoisseur seem to be very similar so far.

Having noticed that this thread is now 1 year old, to the day, I think it's only right that I mark this occasion with something different to the usual content of this thread. With that in mind, have some pictures of multiple products beading on my Z. You're wondering how that's different to the usual content of this thread aren't you? Well, these here beads are au naturale, nature's finest, non simulated, from the sky rather than the hose... you get it, it's rain beadage. Also, the car is still dirty, that's quite unusual too. The Citrus BSD hybrid stuff on the boot, can you see which bit I didn't apply it to? Beads collecting dirt. And just to prove the car is still dirty. Compared to 6 week old (? Might be 5. I should check but... I can't be bothered. And I'm not even sorry) Dodo Juice Supernatural Acrylic Spritz; Which is also collecting dirt; Although the beading isn't as impressive any more. More of the same from a different angle. It's not a James Ascend or whatever it was, but a new sticker nonetheless;

As Lexx said, this with the DAS6 option. Job, jobbed.