stubzie83

You won't be able to move it too much as the prop shaft is above the exhaust and you don't want to catch the exhaust on that!

I bought a set of standard 18" wheels for winter and have had them refurbished in anthracite and they look really good. They're not on the car yet but I'll try and post a pic to show what they look like.

It's highly likely. It does sound like it is some part of the exhaust rattling in the vid. Even if it isn't the leaking joint this still needs to be sorted out as if it is leaking water then it will be leaking gases as well.

I would check the joint again just to verify that is the cause. Looks like the leak is in the joint itself between the two flanges rather than the weld breaking off either side of the flange. Might just need a new gasket in the joint to stop the leak.

The video link hasn't worked that well, but from copying and pasting the link I was able to view it. Looks like you might have a leak at the flange joint between the mid pipe and back box. I only say this as you can see water leaking from the joint as you pass it with the camera and everything else underneath is dry.

I received and fitted mine on Friday (2004 car) so they definitely do them. Had to wait a week as they were out of stock initially. Here's the link: http://www.zunsport.co.uk/product.asp?id=190

You'll only get hot air out once the air is out of the heater core. If you bleeding the air with the engine on then set the heaters to max. The vent air will start to get warm as the air comes out of the heater core. Be careful leaving the air bleed open whilst running though as when the air is out the coolant will be pissing out of the plug.

Yeah youhave to get the rad cap level above the level of the air bleed plug at the back otherwise the back pipe that goes into the heater core never gets full up with coolant. You need to find a way of filling up from the rad cap until coolant comes out of the air bleed plug before the rad is full up. If you do it with the car level then the rad fills up before it comes out of the bleed plug and you then have trapped air. It can be a very painful process trying to get rid of it.

I had this issue when I changed my coolant. It was air trapped in the heater core. It is a pig to get it out. I found that jacking the front of the car up allowed the coolant to get into the heater core and forced the air back into the radiator and then it came out through the rad cap.

I'm guessing from the other thread that you've put in a plenum spacer. I put one in the other week. You have to add in the spacers supplied with the kit under each end of the strut bar where it connects to the chassis (8 spacers). You can then use the strut bar adjustment nut on the left hand side (middle one that is attached to the thread) to then change the tension and the height of the bar above the plenum. You will have to loosen the two outer nuts first. Tightening the adjustment nut and adding tension to the bar causes it to bow upwards and clear the plenum. You need about 10mm of clearance between the bar and the plenum at it's lowest point to stop it from catching the plenum whilst driving. This is still low enough not to catch on the bonnet.

Okay, I've had the service, no comments about the transmission noises or feel from Abbey (I did ask them to check). Now that the cars back the drive-line feels much tighter and less clunky. My release bearing noise has subsided quite a bit and no rattles, clunks or jerkiness at low speed coasting in first/second gear as there was before. Maybe something was loose underneath, I'll probably never know. But it feels a lot better. The gearbox and diff oil change seems to have reduced the whine at high revs under WOT and generally given the box a less clunky more direct feel. The shifts are still fairly tight, but it actually now shifts when and where I want it without the vague clunky feel it had before. In all a good result apart from finding out I need new compression arm bushes

I'm having a P3 service and gearbox and diff oil change on Friday at Abbey. I'll let you know if they have any comments/concerns about my transmission and if the oil change helps out with the noise and feel of the gearbox

I have something similar with mine, very clunky at low speeds and jerky off throttle in first gear. I'm convinced it's the flywheel making the noise. I suspect that the springs between the two masses are probably a bit worn and they are moving about more than they should. I fitted an engine torque damper to try and get rid of the jerky off throttle response and difficulty changing up into second gear after pulling away. It did help a lot. The car would slow down smoothly in first gear off throttle and I found the gear change from first to second a lot less clunky and more direct. I'm planning on getting a urethane gearbox mount as well as the torque damper seems to need tightening up every so often and it's becoming less effective as it wears.

The rear doesn't look too good. The total toe is +5.5 degrees whereas the limit (written above) +3.5 degrees. As a result the thrust angle (in the middle) is a bit high. This might be causing your steering issues as the rear wheels are pointing in a different direction to the fronts. This might help to explain some of the diagram and about steering centre (near the bottom of the page: http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm

I found that contractor's solvent is pretty good for getting off the soot and tar as I was having a bit of a mare getting mine clean at first. Brasso was also good at removing the crud. I then finished with Meguiars NXT metal polish to give them a nice shine. As said before the Megs NXT does seem to stop the dirt sticking and you can get the pipes quite shiny by just washing them normally after a couple of applications of the Megs polish.

Looks like I missed the boat on this one . Tarmac, is there any possibility that you'll do another order on these? I would quite like a pair for the front if you do.

Yeah, been watching it with the surround sound cranked up. Lucky my neighbours are away

Cosworth do the over sized pistons and main bearings. I have seen them being sold by J W Racing. I believe they have a set being sold on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cosworth-Forg ... 0463808351 I guess they might be able to get the main bearings as well.

N1 front lip: http://www.hzaltezza.com/body-kits-1/nissan/350z.html Thanks for that, thought it might be that one. Might try one if I can't find anything else as it looks like it fits Ok from your experience.

Hi Luke, Which brand of front lip is this? I bought an HC racing lip in the same style recently but it didn't fit. Looks like your one is much better.

PM sent

+2 It would have been better if they had said it was a mistake. They were also selling 100 items per advert and ther were 5 or 6 ads on there, so the 'out of stock' response is very poor. It's also against Ebay selling rules to advertise a product that is out of stock.

It's not a standard part of any of the services (P1,P2,P3), you will have to ask to have it done either whilst it's in for a service or at your own leisure as a separate item. I have 36k miles on an 04 plate and mine feels a bit clunky sometimes, so I'm having done whilst it's in for a P3 and MOT.

The listings are private, so you cannot see what the product was in his feedback.... There are probably a lot of brake products with positive feedback there.... Very true, you can only see a small proportion of the products bought on the positive feedback. I'm sure it will be fine, as I have bought something else from AP motorstore before and had no problems with the item or the delivery. In fact, I think I must of left them positive feedback myself!

My one does it to. I think it is how they are and I find it worse in the cold weather. I'm going to have my gearbox oil changed next month when it's getting serviced to see if it helps. If it makes a difference then I will report back.