stubzie83

Plenty available on ebay. You require a 31mm festoon bulb with a rating of 8 watts if you want the same type. As Husky said you can go for white LED ones which do look good. I replaced mine with LED units that have 12 surface mount LEDs on a board in the middle. They give good light output and are simple to change over. The dome light unit comes out really easily in one section and just unclips. You then just unclip the clear diffusers on each side and replace the bulbs (push fit) and then clip back together. If you get LED ones then you'll have to make sure they are put in the correct way around as they are polarity sensitive.

They have them at MJP Eastern Auto: Link: http://www.mjpshop.co.uk/category.php?id=36 I suspect that ZMANALEX or Tarmac might also be able to help source one. The pop chargers are purely for noise as they can lose power due to heat soak over the stock air box.

I suspect the guy in black probably needed a change of underwear after nearly getting run down twice. He won't do that again.

Welcome to the forum. Not sure about mechanical mods, but it has modded rear bumper with spats side skirts and the wing on the back is not standard. Wheels are larger than standard too. Could well be standard mechanically as with the traction control off it is possible to drift like that providing you're not worried about replacing tyres or the clutch. Some other vids show the same guy drifting around larger roundabouts with traffic on them and cyclists which is very dodgy

I'm surprised they didn't get spotted refueling. If it's only got a 20 litre tank and it was being driven fast it would have to stop for juice. It must be 50-60 miles to the M25 from Santa Pod and with a tuned up low mpg engine it must have had to stop somewhere around North London.

Because they are lighter they will allow the engine to rev more freely the same as lightweight flywheels do. Perhaps also less power is wasted in turning them due to the reduced weight and this would essentially give you a little bit of power back that would otherwise be wasted turning the heavier pulleys. Having said that the load from the alternator, PS pump and AC pump will still be the same once the pulleys are moving.

Yeah it's just a modded 276Hp model. They've just put on a Nismo style front bumper and skirts and 'Z' badge on the front instead of the Nissan burger.

I replaced mine a couple of weeks ago. It was a bit fiddly getting the coil packs out as there are a lot of wiring looms in the way. I removed some of the support brackets on the looms so that they could be moved out of the way, still a bit tight though in places, especially the plugs at the rear of the engine. I only removed the engine cover and air intake tube for access and left the strut bar on. I used a magnetic plug wrench designed for 10mm plugs with a 16mm hex nut. You will also need a fairly long extension as the plugs are deep. I used a 10" extension for most but needed to add a smaller one on in a couple of places for extra reach. Took me about 3 hours to do as I've never changed plugs before but was worth it as I only had to pay £48 for the plugs and get the magnetic socket.

See post above for update

OK. So I think I managed to do a successful ECU reset yesterday using the pedal method. The CEL stopped blinking after the ignition went off and I started the car and it was gone so I'm assuming it went OK. I had a quick look with the OBD2 when I got home after 12 miles driving yesterday. I started the engine and at warm idle bank 1 LTFT was indicating +4.69% and bank 2 LTFT was +1.56%. I had another look today after another 25 miles and found the that at warm idle bank 1 LTFT is +3.91% and bank 2 is 3.13%. The O2 sensors have quite significantly different voltages though. The OBD report the following voltages: O2 sensor 1 bank 1 - 0.305V O2 sensor 2 bank 1 - 0.280V O2 sensor 1 bank 2 - 0.610V O2 sensor 2 bank 2 - 0.280V I'm a bit unsure as to why the sensor 1 values are so different (doubled/halved) as I would have expected them to be closer. Could one of them be knackered?

Yeah the ignition timing reading was without the engine running so I'm guessing it must be a maximum. I have just performed an ECU reset so I'll see how it looks after a bit of mileage and report back. I'll probably do the idle air volume learning again later when I get home as well.

Thanks for your response. I haven't tried a reset yet as I only plugged in my OBD2 tool last night for the first time. I will do a reset today and see if the values creep back up. The LTFT values were exactly the same for both cylinder banks. The ignition advance was reading 63.5 degrees as well but I don't know the significance of this. Would my replacement panel filter be affecting the values? I was under the impression that the O2 sensors just correct for differences between the MAF air flow/base map fueling by measuring the amount of O2 in the exhaust and trimming as necessary and that air flow in past the MAF shouldn't affect the trim value.

Will do. I did a search and noticed that you had some similar issues. Did you get yours resolved?

Hi all, Wondering if anyone could help. I got myself an OBD2 reader and hooked it up today to check it works and found some odd values. I found that my long term fuel trims 1 & 2 are at +8.6% which after some digging seems to be a bit high and means the car is running lean and the ECU is dumping in extra fuel to compensate. Should I be looking for a post MAF air leak or is this an acceptable value? FYI I had the air intake off at the weekend to change the spark plugs but did it all up nice and tight. I have noticed in the past few months that with the bonnet up when switching off the engine I can hear a hiss/squeak as the engine turns off that sound like air leaking from somewhere but had assumed it was just excess air escaping from the air box. I've also experienced a chattering/ticking noise at 4k+ rpms that has been there since a few weeks after buying the car. I thought this was a coolant issue (heather core valve flapping?) and swapped out the coolant, but the noise is still there. I'm now thinking this could be a symptom of an air leak. Does anybody have any thoughts on this? Thanks, Steve

It's all on page 73 of the Engine Mechanical (EM) section of the 2004 service manual. I was trying to attach the page here but the board attachment limit has been reached and it won't let me

I don't know, I'm assuming it would be the same as the standard pulley. There is a bit of a process involved in putting it back on though according to the service manual.

The service manual (for 2004 model) states that the crank pulley tightening torque is 39.2 - 49 Nm. It also says something about 60 - 65 degrees angle tightening if that means anything to you.

Mine clunks occasionally on idle. It sounds like the release bearing clunking in between the normal whirring noise it makes. I find that the clunks coincide with the fans cutting in and out. I think that perhaps the electrical loading of the fans coming on increases the idle speed slightly (much like turning on the A/C) and then when they go off it drops back down again.

Looks like a Powertec induction kit. They have them on ebay. Linky: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/POWERTEC-Inductio ... 4840278f18

Yeah, I'm not sure why they are so different. I know that some other import exhausts like the HKS true dual have to be modified as well as they have the same issue. I guess with a bit modification you could get rid of the rattling. Not sure whether the mid pipe could be bent away from it a bit or if the diff casing has to be filed down.

Yeah I've seen a few vids of the magnaflow as well and thought it might be an alternative to the Scorpion sound wise but with more stock looking tips. Shame that it has fitment issues. I guess it's designed for the US/JDM versions without the cooling fins on the diff.

Like the wheels mate. The matt bronze colour is great, looka bit like Rota Drifts How are you finding the Magnaflow exhaust?

Looks like they've gone for a Stillen type bulge/intake on the bonnet. I wonder if there's a Stillen supercharger hiding under there. Shame the bonnet line doesn't match up with bumper at the front. Not my cup of tea, especially on a roadster.

Not me I'm afraid! I do live near that area but I always have the zed in the garage when I'm at home.

Gunmetal with Nismo V1 body kit reg MA56*** going past my work this morning at 08:30. Looked very nice, almost makes me want to get a Nismo kit myself.