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stubzie83

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Everything posted by stubzie83

  1. It's quite scary that he picks up on it so quickly, but very greatly appreciated
  2. Thanks for having a look Alex. The car is a 2004 with 40k miles on the clock. I've only driven the car for the last 9k miles so there's 31k miles of unknown history with the previous and only other owner. I was a bit worried that it might be a pivot as some people in the USA have greased their pivots by squirting grease through the hole where the fork goes into the box. I don't fancy randomly squirting grease in there though
  3. Hi all, I've been searching around for an answer to my issue but can't find out anything definitive and am not sure what to do. Any help from those whom have had experience would be greatly appreciated Basically, I'm having some issues with my clutch operation. Since buying the car in October 2010 I've always noticed the lumpy/sudden clutch engagement and release bearing noise and from what everyone says this is normal so I've got used to it. Last year I noticed that the clutch engagement was getting slightly worse and there were occasional rattly sounds when pushing the clutch pedal in. I had a P3 service at Abbey M/S in September 2011 and the clutch pedal felt much tighter and smoother to engage when it came back. I'm guessing they adjusted something but I don't know what and after a month the pedal loosened up again and the engagement went back to it's old ways. Since then I've noticed particularly in the last few months the clutch engagement becoming more sudden and grabby and some judder through the pedal at the biting point when pulling away. About two weeks ago when pulling away a bit suddenly to avoid a dust cart that was careering towards me the clutch pedal got stuck half way up as I pulled away and the clutch burnt out fairly massively before the pedal finally popped up I was a bit worried that the clutch disc would be toast but it seemed to be alright after letting it cool down (was very smelly though). Everything then seemed to be alright but over the last week I'm now getting a nasty squeaking sound when releasing the clutch pedal. It sounds like it's coming from underneath the car and is much louder with the window open. I took a video in my garage with the bonnet up and the sound is definitely louder from under the bonnet area and is louder still from underneath the car. http://s1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc371/stubzie83/?action=view&current=SqueakyClutch.mp4 I was thinking that my first move would be to replace the fluid as it's most likely cooked and causing some issues. My next thought is would I need a master or slave cylinder replacement or even just a clean up or greasing. Has anyone had the sound/experience with their clutch and found a fix that worked? I only ask as when searching the forum and the web all sorts of answers spring up and I'm unsure of the best course of action. Thanks, Steve
  4. Could be a bad belt tensioner. This makes a similar noise (from experience on a another car) and might explain the cutting out if the alternator belt is not tight.
  5. Are the side steps the ones made by Aero kit? They look really good
  6. How many cans of Plasti dip spray did you need to do all four wheels? I'm considering doing this as a short term thing until I can get my Rays refurbished properly as I've just put them back on after having my anthracite winter wheels on and they look awful!
  7. stubzie83

    950HP GTR

    Very nice. Still running stock brakes though
  8. Hi Jez, Would you happen to have one of the cargo net 'D' rings (with the plastic push in mounting)? In particular I'm after the one of the ones from the back edge of the boot (bumper side) rather than the ones that attach at the bottom of the strut brace mounting. Cheers, Steve
  9. You could try looking up LED light pipes/light guides. These transmit light from one LED at one end to the other like a fibre optic cable but also light up evenly along their length. These are used in lots of bits of consumer electronics to get light from LEDs from a PCB out to a front panel. They can reflect light internally to transmit the light around bends as well.
  10. You could ask the refurbers to paint your existing centre caps. I got mine done when I painted my wheels anthracite. All I had to do was remove the Nissan badges and then glue them back on when I got them back
  11. As said, check the pads for shims. The front ones are adhesive and should be stuck to the back of the pad. The rears have adhesive shims with metal shims on top. I found that when I replaced my discs and pads they squealed really badly at first. I did a bedding in procedure after a few hundred miles and the squealing disappeared completely. If the shims are there then I would try this as normal braking doesn't seem to bed the pads to the disc very quickly and they stay noisy.
  12. Right, just to follow up this is now sorted. I bought a replacement set of Philips 85126+ 4300K (OEM) D2R bulbs and replaced them the other week. The difference in light output is amazing. The new bulbs are much brighter all the way up to the cutoff and I can actually see a lot more now I would say that if you have an older car with original bulbs or if you've put a lot of hours on the headlights and are finding the top part of the beam to be weak it might be a good idea to replace them. They're not that cheap (about £35 each) but it's well worth the investment
  13. About 13:30 on Queen's Street in Horsham. Gave a wave just before we passed each other but was ignored Don't know if this might have been Willy P?
  14. I have noticed the same thing with my O2 sensors. I'm guessing that from the service manual it is implying that bank 1 should be between 0 - 0.3v and bank 2 between 0.6 - 1.0 v. Am I correct in thinking this? I tried following the procedure using an OBD 2 reader but didn't see a lot of change on the voltages. I did however get quite a lot of vibration at 2000rpm when revving up and holding as per the procedure.
  15. Mine never seems to go above 90 PSI apart from the odd occasion when it has spiked up to about 110 PSI running 5W30. I always thought that the pressure relief valve must be set for around 90 PSI as this seems to be the point that it stops at independent of the engine rpm rising further. When it's cold mine usually sits at 90 PSI on high idle and drops off as the engine warms up and idle speed drops. Warm idle is usually about 20 - 30 PSI. I would have thought that too higher pressure would cause issues with oil seals and gaskets leaking.
  16. Wheel Works in Crawley. £66 per wheel including tyre fitting/refitting and balancing. Bit less if you take in bare rims. They do powder coat primer and clear coat with wet spray colour in between. Got my winter wheels done there in anthracite and they turned out really well. Had several Porsches and a Ferrari 430 in there when I turned up
  17. When I changed mine over I just put some plain 12mm washers behind the bolts to stop them digging into the disc. It secured the discs nice and tight on the hub for the runout measurement.
  18. My driver's seat squeaks over bumps. It seems to come from the left hand side as it sometimes squeaks when I'm stationary and pushing the clutch pedal i.e. pushing on the left side of the seat by moving left leg on the clutch. I think it might be the leather moving around the seat adjustment switches. I think my centre console/knee pads also squeak a bit over uneven ground as well
  19. Wow Frogspeed Int won't be happy with that lead time Still if you want a Drift King style car i guess it might be worth the wait but £5k is a bit steep.
  20. Yeah belts, mine does this in the cold weather as well and I have replaced my belts about 5 months ago. If I leave the car outside when it freezes up it tends to squeal the first time I pull away so I guess the cold and damp play some part in the noise as if I leave it garaged it's Ok and doesn't make noise.
  21. CS, could you PM me a price for a non res blueflame including delivery please?
  22. That's good, I had heard that the resonated version was a little too quiet. Captain's non res sounds good in the vids he's done. Quite tempted now...
  23. Can you still get the Blueflame with the non resonated mid pipe? I did try and get one of these once from someone but I couldn't get hold if a non res version so gave up on it.
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