Sam Mcgoo

From here: http://www.350z-uk.c...you-uprated-to/ The front sidelights x2, rear Numberplate x2 and boot light x 1 are all the same type - w5w 501. The interior light requires 2 x 30mm festoon type bulbs. White LED is the way to go for the modern look, they are white with a tiny hint of blue. You can get them all cheap on ebay but they may not last too long. Not so bad with the easy to change bulbs but a pain with the sidelight bulbs. I would recommend Autobulbs direct for good quality items and if you PM a mod they will give you a discount code. Here you go; Sidelight - 2x http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/501-led-extreme-power-1.5w-360-degree-white-blue-red-amber.html Numberplate and boot - 3x http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/501-LED-Single-Assorted-colours.html Interior - 2x http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/269-4-led-festoon-bulbs-30mm.html

No probs.

From here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/44931-sidelight-bulbs-what-have-you-uprated-to/ The front sidelights x2, rear Numberplate x2 and boot light x 1 are all the same type - w5w 501. The interior light requires 2 x 30mm festoon type bulbs. White LED is the way to go for the modern look, they are white with a tiny hint of blue. You can get them all cheap on ebay but they may not last too long. Not so bad with the easy to change bulbs but a pain with the sidelight bulbs. I would recommend Autobulbs direct for good quality items and if you PM a mod they will give you a discount code. Here you go; Sidelight - 2x http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/501-led-extreme-power-1.5w-360-degree-white-blue-red-amber.html Numberplate and boot - 3x http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/501-LED-Single-Assorted-colours.html Interior - 2x http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/269-4-led-festoon-bulbs-30mm.html

Welcome to the club.

Yes at the fly. 402hp @Hubs

If you use rbf600, unless you manage to get the brakes really really hot you shouldn't have to change it when you get back. You should easily get a couple of track days out of it if not more. Maybe for piece of mind when you get back, just bleed a bit out of the calipers as that's where it will get the most heat.

I meant you can't turn it off with the press of a button, unless you've interfered with the circuit.

Yep, another recommendation for RBF 600 here. I've used it on track in both my Supra and Zed and can't fault it one bit.

Tha'ts the traction control, and yes that interferes far too much and is easy to trigger. That cuts the power to the rear wheels and can be turned off using the ESP switch on the dash.... The ESP itself can't be turned off and brakes individual wheels when it feels the car is out of shape, and is much more difficult to trigger.

Welcome to the club.

Only asking these questions because I've been reading two different things some say 3:12 pully will be ok with stock injectors but stock pump is the week link I've also been reading that the stock injectors yeld upto 440hp ? Why you using 333 pulley with that set you got 3:12 would be nice ? Ps have read this many time just like to see what other are doin as that info is not 100% gospel Yes, this is the problem, its all just peoples opinions. It depends whats important to you and whether you have plans on building your engine in the future. There are many people (mainly in the US) that have the full bolt on kit ie Vortech FMU, inline fuel pump and SST box and stock injectors, that have both the 3'12 and 2'87 pulleys fitted and have done thousands of miles like it without issue. Others have blown the engine. The minimum you need would be a re-tune after fitting the smaller pulley. It will work BUT it all depends on everything working perfectly and the quality of the tune. There will be no headroom for error or any parts that may start to fail. If you get a sticky or dirty injector, or your fuel pump hicups, or your SS Box gets a kink in its boost reference tube - your engine will run lean and damage will occur. This may never happen, but also it may happen the first time you drive it. NO-ONE KNOWS! You need to decide whether the extra 25hp - 50hp is worth the risk? Would you rather pay an extra £1-2k on supporting mods like RFS, FP, bigger injectors and a decent tune, maybe a UPrev and make it as reliable as you can? Or just go for it and if the engine blows further down the line, you'll deal with it then. There is no right or wrong answer, It will work, but it might not last. Your decision to make. Knowing I would do a few track days a year, and didn't want my low mileage engine to blow, I decided that I wanted the most reliable setup I could achieve on my budget, so removed the FMU, inline fuel pump and SS box, and fitted DW600cc, Return Fuel system, Walbro 255 and got an UPrev tune. None of it was necessary, but it has allowed my to enjoy my car without worrying about whether or not its about to blow. I almost definitely will drop to the 3'12 or 2'87 pulley at some point but wanted to run the car as is for a year or so to make sure everything is running sweet or until I got bored with my current power levels. That will be US gallons and converts to 257 Lph. I don't know what the stock pump flows but I'm sure google will tell you. Hope this all helps a bit. If you want professional advice, you should contact one of the forum Tuners. I use Abbey Motorsport and highly recommend them. I'm pretty sure I know what their advise would be though if your wanting to drop the pulley size and increase the boost - Fuel pump, RFS, larger injectors and an UPrev tune.

I'm running DW 600cc injectors, walbro 255, AAM basic return fuel system with. 3'33 pulley. Have a read here for answers to your above question: http://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/351609-upgrade-to-vortech-3-12-pulley.html But more importantly, read this thread and it will answer all of the questions you've asked so far about the vortech. It really is worth taking the time to read it all, you will learn a lot. http://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/270770-vortech-faq-read-this-before-asking-vortech-questions.html

As Alex said, that will be your ESP kicking in, pulsing your NSF brake. You must have been pushing fairly hard to get the ESP to kick in mid corner. I have never had the ESP interfere while driving on the road, and only a few times on track, and I don't drive like a granny on either. Don't take it the wrong way, as I believe these cars should be driven, but if you've lost the back end sliding into a curb one week, and managed to get the ESP to kick in mid corner the next week, you may want to calm down a bit. It doesn't take much on the pubic roads to loose control if your pushing it that hard. Any little bump, pothole, mud, leaves, manhole cover etc....would be enough to see you off the road at those speeds. Would hate to see the Zed bent.

Yep, mine was 6 years old when I got it with only 12k on it. One owner, weekend toy.

Welcome to the club.

The decent ones are the RE050A and not the runflat ones.

I have a Swissgear, by Wenger. Been taking it abroad and on and off oil rigs for 6 years now and still going strong.

Welcome to the club. Mx5 looks interesting, not a fan looks wise but they are a good drivers car and with double the standard power that should be fun! ECU of choice for a normal S/C zed is OEM. This can be re-tuned by a few places in the country. It's called UPREV . If you search on here there is loads of info on it. There are aftermarket options if you've got money to burn and want more tuning options for a more serious set up.

Welcome to the club. Nice supra, shame it was auto. I loved my supra, I came from a BPU TT6 to the Zed. It's a nicer, more modern drive but you might want to look in the FI section before long if you enjoyed your previous power. :wink:

Welcome to the club.

Welcome to the club.

Glad it went ok. Makes such a difference in modernising the look of the car.

Bad sh*t man. Sorry on both counts. I love pets and would hate to hit anything. Hope you forget about it and get the car sorted without hassle.

Hi mate i had FK453's fitted on my wheels supplied by CS, there are a vey good tyre, less road noise and better grip than the Bridgestones i had before +1 on that.... much better and cheaper than the Bridgestones 040 or 050a?