Tricky-Ricky

Hmm, you should be able to rely on the factory gauge, but it does depend on the sender quality, a mechanical gauge would be more reliable, however there are some dam good electrical gauges out there. If i'm going to play with an engine one of the first things i do is fit a decent quality pressure gauge, and one of the other things i do is to wire in a super bright LED to the original low level sensor (after checking it works OK)

Have seen examples where low oil can cause low oil pressure. A top up was all that was required. Also confirmed by ZMANALEX at the time The Zed has a low oil level warning but no low pressure warning. Hope it wasn't your engine? i would be very wary of future reliability of an engine showing low oil pressure because of low oil level, most engines are designed to have oil pickups that are always below the oil level, even when the low oil light is lit. The only time i have ever seen oil pressure drop is when there is low oil coupled with very high/sustained cornering, IE track with a badly designed or un baffled sump.

Thanks for that I did search using several configurations, but got nothing on each occasion Thats why i finally asked. i just typed "throttle controller" into the search function and it was the 4th post down if search isn't working for you the advanced one underneath is better and shows whole threads instead of all the posts. anyways, hope the original post helps Cheers and yes thanks! it answered my questions

Your oil pressure is nothing to do with the oil level, well unless you have none, as the oil pickup is in the lowest point in the sump, Oil viscosity does have a bearing on what pressure you will see, although not as much once hot, anyone looked at the manual to see what the min - max pressures should be for the recommended viscosity? Has the 350 a low oil warning light? as well as a low pressure light? the former has saved an engine on another car i have owned

"All Coilovers are brand new in the box and will come with a 30 days warranty." This part is rather worrying??

Thanks for that I did search using several configurations, but got nothing on each occasion Thats why i finally asked.

Anyone used/fitted one of these? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Electronic-Thrott ... 1c0bccbc18

No it doesn't , where did you read that , the car after deleting the self learn will run on the HIGH Det map i.e lower ignition numbers (SAFE) it will THEN add timing listening to the knock sensor suntil it is back to the LOW det figures (more agressive) We do not switch anything off in the ECU , just tune the learn figures to enable a SAFE map. I think we just refine the stock map. Sorry i must have misunderstood your post on Uprev, i got the impression from what you have said in other posts that the learning ability was stopped, so the ECU was forced to run the more aggressive maps, You now say the that this ability is still retained. I was just trying to get more information on the ECU and its accessibility via Uprev and other interfaces, as i said on your other thread. You are understandably somewhat reluctant to discuss this i depth which i can appreciate, for obvious reasons. I can see i am just banging my head against the wall here, and some other members are getting a bit sarky because they couldn't see where i was going with this, so i will seek my info elsewhere now, and stop bothering people.

OK thanks, just trying to get more info thats all, perhaps you can point me to somewhere that has detailed info and spec for the 350 ECU? I have also been to the Uprev site but the software is licenced so i cannot go into it to see whats what, without a purchase.

Thanks i will.

Some nice cars there like the orange Z with the black wheels, although i suspect you may get a tug for the window tints.

Doesn't having it remapped remove the behaviour you are talking about though? My impression was that until it is remapped the ecu is a law unto itself, but once it's done it stays in "performance mode" all the time. Presumably this would mean that remapped cars can be put on the dyno and give a reliable figure with a single run. Now had an answer on another thread from Abby, and it seems that the Uprev basically deletes the ECUs ability to switch to the default maps (IE safe maps should heavy knock be encountered) which kind of worries me, it basically sticks to the more aggressive fuelling and timing maps to achieve the boost in performance, I would very much like to get hold of the software and see for myself just what parameters are actually available to modify/edit in the ECU.

Fail to see why, as the supra ECU has the same dual maps for fuelling and timing, for closed loop and on boost, plus default timing/fuelling map for det detection and the VVTI obviously has cam advance map and FBW throttle, and runs both MAP and MFA, can hardly call that inferior, is there anything more to the Jspec ECU? Anyway my point was that the 350Z ECU is not as advanced as i was led to believe, at least the JDM version, and if i understand you right, the later JDM is the same as the UK spec ECU, so in that case i guess its not accessible via the Up rev route?

Thanks for the info, so in essence no different to most ECUs then, much the same as my Supra and quite a lot of others, so i guess its the UK ECU thats the true self learner, in that it can live adjust in response to the wideband lambdas, throughout the load/RPM range,cross referenced with the default maps, similar to the new VWs ect.

Sounds like the toe is out, had this myself on other cars, nothing wrong with Falken 452s run these on a 500BHP Supra with no issues whatsoever.

My two comments and the whole point in making them, is based on the fact that people are remarking on there 350Zs not making the quoted power on the dyno, and Abby's remark about it taking 5-6 runs to achieve this, and the further comment that the ECU is a learning type. So my conclusion is that if you are going to spend X amount on induction and exhaust mods, but only see a real increase when the ECU is remapped, but then not be able to use this extra power when you want, without driving it like you stole it for a couple of miles first, to me this kind of defeats the whole object! and i think it would for most people. This has nothing to do with driving ability, do you really think that most people who mod these cars are actually going to go to performance driver training first, because they have come to the conclusion that their car is not quick enough for them?

Thinking about what has been mentioned earlier in this thread about the ECU being a learning type and adjusting to your general driving style, then remapping is not going to have the desired effect unless the car is driven to the max on most occasions, so to me it doesn't really make much sense.

If the 350Z has a true self lean ECU, then that would explain all the very different MPG results in some of the related threads, and obviously not known by a lot of the owners, or the questions wouldn't need to be asked? maybe it would be worth posting up in the info section?

Good to see someone else finds this too. I have heard it in the States that it happens on the 370z too. When we had a RR day at Surrey RR, I think they did the pulls in 3rd gear for some and the numbers didnt seem right, but they assured the members that wasnt causing it. When I had mine on a DD dyno at Eurospec, my car made spot on numbers for what I was expecting with a plenum spacer, came out at 240WHP with nice flat torque curve, so stock I guess it would have been 10 or so HP down - if mods claimed HP are to be beleived Thats surprising, i and many others find SRR to be about the most consistent and genuine RR, IE they don't tailor results to keep owners happy, i know of at least four other car clubs that only use them, plus a couple of well respected mappers.

It will most likely be down to the dyno calibration and operator, i have yet to see two dynos agree with each other Plugs can make a slight difference, but not enough to worry about, iridiums are used because they have a very long service life, not because they are better than copper, or platinum, you can use any of these providing they are the correct grade. Aftermarket exhausts can make a big difference, especially if they are too large bore, and will loose mid range torque on an N/A motor, and as said, a badly designed induction kit Can also play its part if its not getting a good supply of cold air, the filters also can be either next to useless, or alternatively block too easy, all of which can have an impact.

Wow! you're good! you can actually hear it has a lightweight flywheel Seriously though, it may well have but that is not all it takes to have a free revving motor, the cams will help but the stand alone engine management has the biggest influence on how it will behave, and it also has the std RPM limit raised. Hearing your remap holds the RPMs on closed throttle is not good, can't think of one reason why, are you sure you haven't got a problem with your throttle calibration?

Very interesting, certainly seems to make quite a difference, although i suspect the cams played a big part as well, i wonder just what the increase would be with the intake system alone? But just changing the plenum and throttle body and making considerable gains would be a a great performance add on I would also like the see the flywheel figures on a UK dyno though

Is your Z a UK spec? Question for all the people who know, does the Z always throw an error light for everything? IE engine temp sensor for the ECU, or out of calibration for the UK lambdas? Interesting to see all this talk of fuel consumption, guess it goes to show that some can discuss the subject

I was only really thinking in terms of using it for N/A, if i was going to go FI i would stick to EMU, but in any case boosting a 10.5-1 engine to 13 psi is mechanical suicide anyway, using that sort add on, I would only consider risking higher boost using a much more sophisticated ECU that had live/learning det suppression system, and even then i would want to use thicker head gaskets. After having a read through the manual i cant actually see much that says you can configure your own maps with the Cobb device, think i would need to see the software to be sure. On reflection price for price v functionality, i still think i would go for EMU.

What was the issue with UK fuel? i know US octane rating is different/lower, but there should be an equivalent to UK. I said to some, as there are some people including myself who do have experience of mapping ECUs, i need to do a complete read of the manual but it could be more unrestricted than the Uprev system, IE you don't keep having to pay for remaps, as there are quite a few ready made options, besides being able to create your own.