Tricky-Ricky

Just been reading about this, and it seems that it is compatible with OBD-2 so ideal for 350Z and 350GT so this could prove very useful, AFAIKS it doesn't however have ign timing advance, only retard, so useful for FI applications, and has its own MAP sensor, also wondering if it can be used on the UK 350Z as it has std wideband intercept and adjust. Link. http://www.aemelectronics.com/articles.php?tPath=4

That was my impression, but the dry looking cam coupled with oil residue, leads me to think it wasn't treated to regular oil changes or possible low oil level in Japan, and the tick is definitely louder with the cap removed, so the chance of it being external is slim. if your not happy with it walk away, gut instinct counts for a lot I know, i know, but the rest was perfect, don't you just hate it when that happens maybe I'll take another look just to put my mind at rest.

I think maybe the two occasions i took it to 100 leptons may preclude that, but i may be wrong

Read something about throttle reset when battery has been removed, could this be a reason for the bad throttle response?

That was my impression, but the dry looking cam coupled with oil residue, leads me to think it wasn't treated to regular oil changes or possible low oil level in Japan, and the tick is definitely louder with the cap removed, so the chance of it being external is slim.

Are there any known oiling issues with the VQ35DE? in connection with my other thread about a 350Z i looked at, when i removed the filler cap and had a peer inside while the engine was running, it looked a bit dry on the cam. Also the cap and aperture had a bit of gooey oil residue on them, which points to infrequent oil changes, also noticed a very light tick, so possible worn tappet bucket, which is a worry on a 31K motor, being an import i suspect it was in japan, as it only been in the country for just over two years, and the current owner looks after it. So i just wondered if there are any issues with the top end oil supply, does it have cam oiling tubes like the SR20 engine, a known problem?

It was a nice example, best i have seen so far, but that was a little worrying, wanted to get some opinions so i could judge how to proceed.

Are the mods likely to make that much difference to the throttle response? i wouldn't have thought that it should have made that much difference, the throttle response was very slow compared to the std Z i tried? It felt OK once it got going?

I had a look at two 350z today, both engines sounded fairly good, but on one the throttle response was very slow and the first time i planted it, there seemed to be a slight flat spot around the 4-450K mark any ideas? Details, the sluggish one had a few mods, and very well looked after, engine mods, induction kit, full exhaust with race cats, and a plenum spacer Couldn't tell any signs of an air leak! Yet the other 350Z bog std with more miles had a very good throttle response!

quote="Tricky-Ricky"] not a vast difference, its a quarter lighter!!! In the overall scheme of an engine swap the extra 100lbs probably equates to carrying a passenger all the time, as the weight of the engine is pretty far back, so with suitable springs/dampers on the front and a decent corner weight setup i cant see a big problem. you try and shed 100lb elsewhere in the zed. You will struggle. if it doesn't make any difference why not have passengers in all racing cars. Why not indeed! But then who was talking about racing cars? I thought we where talking about weight distribution, and the difference the extra 100lbs would make to that, if its power to weight, then i think the extra 100 odd BHP and the more important 200 odd ft lb of torque would more than make up for it it equates to the same thing, power to weight ratio. I explained the racing car angle for you to try and simply understand. Clearly you haven't. Sorry but it doesn't, as i said i was actually talking about weight distribution initially, and not power to weight, that came in later. You really do like to be seen as being right don't you, well never mind I'll butt out, you just carry on .

Surprisingly enough, most std air-boxes (with a few exceptions) fitted with a decent free flow panel filter, are far better for several reasons, they usually have some form of heat insulation even if it is only plastic, and they all have an outside the engine compartment air feed.

not a vast difference, its a quarter lighter!!! In the overall scheme of an engine swap the extra 100lbs probably equates to carrying a passenger all the time, as the weight of the engine is pretty far back, so with suitable springs/dampers on the front and a decent corner weight setup i cant see a big problem. you try and shed 100lb elsewhere in the zed. You will struggle. if it doesn't make any difference why not have passengers in all racing cars. Why not indeed! But then who was talking about racing cars? I thought we where talking about weight distribution, and the difference the extra 100lbs would make to that, if its power to weight, then i think the extra 100 odd BHP and the more important 200 odd ft lb of torque would more than make up for it

not a vast difference, its a quarter lighter!!! In the overall scheme of an engine swap the extra 100lbs probably equates to carrying a passenger all the time, as the weight of the engine is pretty far back, so with suitable springs/dampers on the front and a decent corner weight setup i cant see a big problem.

Nissan should have put an engine with more grunt in the 350Z to start with could have been a true muscle car LS-1-2 engines are pretty easy to get hold of and can be picked up for as little as 1K, its just mating a suitable box and propshaft, along with the electrics thats a PITA. By the sound of it, the engine in the clip is not std either. I think it a great idea, i think my ultimate stealth car would be a Skyline 350GT with a supercharged LS-1 around 600BHP with torque to match Oh! and the LS-1 weighs in at 430lbs, the VQ35DE comes in at 329lbs so not a vast difference.

Technically NO! Consider the reasons for it using oil,1- severe bore/piston ring wear, 2- you will be loosing power because of this, 3- you are killing your cats because of the increased loading on them, not to mention the increased hydrocarbon output from the former not working correctly, need i go on The above precludes there being a large leak

Thanks for that Anyone have the BC coilovers and care to comment on the ride quality in comparison to std springs/dampers?

And yes i have done a search, but turned up nothing other than BC coilover spring rates, so does anyone know what they are as std?

no your wrong again, it means NO OIL PRESSURE OK pedant! but it amounts to the same thing, and in fact the light will come on at low pressure! try it!

I think people need to be aware that the light means LOW OIL PRESSURE, AND NOT LOW LEVEL. and that if it does come on you are/or garage is guilty of not checking your oil level, and be aware that there is a strong chance you have fooked your engine If it was low oil level you would know to put some oil in VERY SOON! as opposed to the former, which means PHONE BANK IMMEDIATELY OR PRY CREDIT CARD FROM WALLET, closely followed by a very stiff drink

So the dodgy excess oil consumption only applies to the RevUp version? I was under the impression that the VQ35DE engine held some best engine awards, but after reading this and also the fact that a relatively modern engine design doesn't have a low oil warning light, especially when they are designed for extended servicing periods is worrying to say the least. I certainly wouldn't expect any engine of this type to have a higher oil consumption than an older design!

Apart from using that much in 10K mls, a healthy motor shouldn't by the way so there is a problem, the low oil light should have been illuminated for some time, so you need to check that. Only running with 1.8 lt has not been doing your engine any good at all, IE accelerated wear, running too hot etc, good luck i think you may need it.

Hmm, you should be able to rely on the factory gauge, but it does depend on the sender quality, a mechanical gauge would be more reliable, however there are some dam good electrical gauges out there. If i'm going to play with an engine one of the first things i do is fit a decent quality pressure gauge, and one of the other things i do is to wire in a super bright LED to the original low level sensor (after checking it works OK)

Have seen examples where low oil can cause low oil pressure. A top up was all that was required. Also confirmed by ZMANALEX at the time The Zed has a low oil level warning but no low pressure warning. Hope it wasn't your engine? i would be very wary of future reliability of an engine showing low oil pressure because of low oil level, most engines are designed to have oil pickups that are always below the oil level, even when the low oil light is lit. The only time i have ever seen oil pressure drop is when there is low oil coupled with very high/sustained cornering, IE track with a badly designed or un baffled sump.

Thanks for that I did search using several configurations, but got nothing on each occasion Thats why i finally asked. i just typed "throttle controller" into the search function and it was the 4th post down if search isn't working for you the advanced one underneath is better and shows whole threads instead of all the posts. anyways, hope the original post helps Cheers and yes thanks! it answered my questions

Your oil pressure is nothing to do with the oil level, well unless you have none, as the oil pickup is in the lowest point in the sump, Oil viscosity does have a bearing on what pressure you will see, although not as much once hot, anyone looked at the manual to see what the min - max pressures should be for the recommended viscosity? Has the 350 a low oil warning light? as well as a low pressure light? the former has saved an engine on another car i have owned