Tricky-Ricky

This is all becoming increasingly confusing, so you're saying the a std no rev runners are not all the same hight? (not talking length) and that in order to make it comparable to the mrev2 the two front runners need to have the hight shaved further? is this correct?

The one I'm using is a cheap ebay item, seems fine, i may just swap it over to the other breather, as the current one doesn't seem to take any oil, failing that use two, there are plenty to choose from. Be interesting to see if changing the breather results in more oil.

I think the reason the throttle body gets more gunk on it is down to the full throttle breather (the large bore one that comes from the back of the cam cover into the induction tube) is as implied, draws oil vapour though at high RPM when there is more oil vapour,and due to the high velocity in the intake gets drawn in and meets the throttle flap as the only restriction. I have been looking into the breathers and am now wondering about using the catch can that i have on the other breather ( low rpm as this is subject to high engine vacuum only at idle and low RPM) and so is not drawing much oil though at higher RPM due to less depression in the plenum, so i think the catch can would be of more use on this one.

If that is the case then why do people bother to modify the two front runners by reducing there hight by 3-5MM, mine is already that much lower on the front two runners? i was under the impression that the runners where all the same hight, which is why the spacer mod or the machining works?

In theory the engines are to all intent's identical, the only thing i can think of is that being a JDM only car they where deliberately fitted with the updated plenum's, perhaps to offset the extra weight. its a 03? so is mine.... could go look at my plenum and see its up the attic somewhere Mine is an 04 plate, be interesting to see if there is any difference.

In theory the engines are to all intent's identical, the only thing i can think of is that being a JDM only car they where deliberately fitted with the updated plenum's, perhaps to offset the extra weight.

Should have said, that was the first thing i checked, the noise is definitely coming from the valve, very odd.

This is an odd one, i took off my plenum yesterday to paint etc, today it goes back together, all tightened up fine, but with engine running i get a distinct hissing/sucking sound coming from around my catch can and pipework, now the only pipe i removed was the one to the plenum, but after replacing one of them there is still the noise. So i get some soapy water and start to liberally paint the hoses an fittings but no sign of a leak, i pin the noise down to the non return valve that comes from the left hand cam cover, so i remove it and decide to seal up the join between the to different colour plastics, but to no avail, now is this just an odd noise coming from the air passing through the valve or could there be a leak that i cant detect? has anyone had something similar?

This is a pic of my lower plenum as you can see its already cast with a lower front two runners, so this is obviously not a first generation plenum, but you say its not a rev 2, so what is it? There is obviously a lot of misinformation around as you are saying that the previous pics are labelled wrongly, but i also found other pics that are labelled the same as those, it would be good to see all the relevant plenum's side by side.

That is pretty oily, mine was nowhere near as bad after 50K, on a side note i have never needed reset my throttle, and its been off or disconnected about three times now, same goes for windows.

Some pics for clarification, My plenum is like the one on the right,and has the first two runners reduced in hight, so is the one on the left the early version, and what does the revision 3 plenum look like? Thought some might like to see how the VQ engine should look like if it has to stay N/A

I have done a little more research, and found that my 350GT plenum is a revision 2 item, which equates to the modified front runner already lower in profile and the rest are all of practically equal length, also they are somewhat longer than the early types that i have managed to find pics of, interesting, i have no idea what difference this will make? didn't the revision engines have other mods? i don't mean the VR series though.

Nor can i, but i have turned up some info on Google

Not looking for a guide to polishing, thats no problem, its modifying the lower plenum runners that I'm looking for, thanks anyway.

Sure i saw something about it a while back but I'm dammed if i can find it. Anyway i thought i would remove my plenum today for a clean, polish or paint, and was pleasantly surprised to find virtually no oil residue and not particularly dirty, so thats a plus, anyway now i have it off the car i thought if i could turn up any info on doing a little grinding/filling that may gain me a few ft lb it would be worth doing, so if anyone knows the best way or has some links i would appreciate it

Decided to finally do a battery swap today, i basically didn't think much of the import type battery that was fitted when i bought the car, even though it was brand new, So after doing a little measuring and research i thought i had decided on a suitable battery, which was and Excide 030, however when i went to Eurocarparts armed with a ruler i found that it would be too long by 10mm, so i had to rethink, so after the very helpful guy let me loose in the stores armed with my steel rule, i finally settled on a Bosch 096 which is just the right size to fit the std battery tray, but it did require a little grinding of the two tabs on the front of the tray, and i will also have to make up a hold down strap but its no problem. So i now have a 70ah battery with 680amps of cold cranking power, apart from the tray and strap mod all thats needed is a couple of UK type battery terminals.

Kind of similar to the Blazt software, the using the 350GT std nav screen idea to display the PC screen on, is dependant on being able to A, get a converter cable and B, that the output is NTSC (Japanese TV standard) which the std screen is, and i guess the same would apply to using the Osiris too. Just spotted a cheap ish secondhand Emanage ultimate, so I'm tempted by that, as its what i have the most experience with, but i would rather adjust the std ECU map rather than trick it, but its a case of cost at the moment as i just don't really have the funds to spare, in the process of trying to sell and buying a new house right now

Now i have been looking more closely at the Greddy infometer touch, it seems a possible candidate for an in car display, should i not bother with the Osiris tuner, i think i will sell the Innovate LM-2 and the Blazt cable+ software and either buy the infometer or the HKS camp-2. I had toyed with the idea of using an old laptop with the Blazt cable and try and find a converter cable that goes from the external monitor output to an RCA and run it through the std screen, but couldn't find anything that would do it and convert to NTSC.

There is always this one,http://www.race-technology.com/dash2_2_31.html which i believe will work with aftermarket ECUs, several of the Supra club use them with the Solaris ECU, but there a bit expensive. The Greddy infometer looks quite good actually, there is always the HKS camp2 which i think does the same as the Infometer.

Edited above, need a volunteer to check on UK

Thanks guys, but i think i have sorted this now, sourcing a battery is no problem, nor is the terminals, i was just concerned that the fuesable links attached to the original JDM type connector was not going to fit but i think i now have a way to sort it, i will post up a bit of a guide for anybody else contemplating this, as the std JDM battery is pathetic for a 3.5 V6 mine is 35 amp hr 280 cranking amps no wonder it would go flat after listening to the stereo for a couple of hours. I aim to change for a 50-60 amp hr with 5-600 could cranking amps.

Did a quick search but couldn't turn anything up? This is aimed at those who have changed their JDM (pathetic battery for a UK type, i have done a little research and it seems the 005 battery will just fit,(GT350, same in most respects) but it will need the UK type battery terminals, but in order to keep the Nissan fusible link and the auxiliary outputs i will need a bolt on type connector, but i am not sure if this all will fit? So has anyone done this and can give some tips before i go ahead?

You can add me to the list, happy to help, i have the Blazt cable and software, which can read and reset fault codes + test individual cylinders etc. Name: Trick-Ricky Location: East Sussex Blazt cable+software, which can read and reset fault codes + test individual cylinders etc. works with all JDM haven't tried UK model yet.

I weighed up the features of a scanner or the Blazt, and decided that although i would like to see some parameters displayed permanently, which i guess some scanners can do, but limited, and not very practical, and i don't know of a scanner that can data log? The Blazt software allows data logging of quite a number of selectable parameters (but not all at once) as well as live monitoring, and there is no limit that i have found to the record time, but it has the added inconvenience of needing to have the laptop in the car.

I didn't think that the 350z was equipped with an oil temp sensor as std, don't know many cars that do under 100K